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12volts for radar detector

7K views 24 replies 14 participants last post by  Wilco 
#1 ·
Has anyone figured out where to get 12volts for a permanently installed radar detector harness? I would take it off the back of the accessory plug on the passenger compartment if I could figure out how to get to it.
 
#3 ·
Do you want switched power or non switched power??
 
#5 ·
That what I would suggest
 
#6 ·
Switched power if possible. I have a Passport 9500IX with a smartcord. The cord allows control of the detector from a button that gets mounted to on the dash or console area. The power needs to go through the button, up the A pillar and to the detector if possible.
 
#7 ·
+1 on the switched mirror power which I assume the HC has. I did it on my JGC. What a PITA to get the mirror assembly on/off. I'm hoping the HC is easier. I use the invisicord (link below)

My Bell Sti is hidden under my visor in a cheapo organizer. Though I can't see the display (good for stealth in the great state of VA) I can hear everything I need...

Invisicord - Installation

Matt
 
#9 ·
look for the mirror wire from under the dash
 
#10 ·
Have you looked under the dash. This car is sealed up tighter than a drum. I am going to start tearing the interior apart tomorrow. I would like to remove the center console and get the power from the outlet and run the smart cord. I can't figure out how the console attaches under the dash.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I have been using Valentine 1's in all of my cars for years. Consider hanging your Valentine 1 off of the driver side visor and running a standard telephone cable (with choice of colors) along the upper windshield under the headliner (very easy to tuck it under). Next, tuck the cable under the upper edge of the A Pillar molding then tuck it under the rubber stripping between the A Pillar and the door. Bring the cable all the way down to lower dash level and route under the dashboard. Once you reach the console, you may need a wire snake from the passenger side to bring it through (a standard hanger wire will also work). Bring cable over to passenger side of console, tuck under vinyl panel (lower edge where carpeting comes up) then route upwards to the 12V plug. (I assume you have the Stealth module). It maks for a nice, tidy, professional installation that takes about 15 minutes. With this method, no need to tear anything apart! Alternatively, one could route the cable between the head liner and windshield (again tucking the wire under the head liner) toward the A Pillar on the passenger side and use the same method described above for coming down the A Pillar, as well. The only car that I have that this didn't work is my Porsche. The reason it didn't work is because of head room and proximity to the sun visor. I had to go with a K-40 installation for that car. Personally, I think the Valentine 1 is a better radar detector. One last suggestion for mounting the V1 on the Sun Visor: Turn the metal clip / mount around "backwards" when attaching to th V1, then slide it on to the leading (front) edge of the visor rather than the trailing (rear) edge of the visor. It stays positioned much more securely using that method.
 
#13 ·
I was debating how to mount my radar detector for a while. I have always had it in the center off the dash at the bottom of the windshield with he cord running down to the outlet. With the Hellcat I really did not want that again. I really wanted it on the driver side of the windshield, but with he curve of the windshield it was a problem. Thursday I bought 2 extra windshield mounts and cut one of them and welded in a small piece of metal that allows the detector to pointing in the right direction. I have the cord running under the steering column and up to the detector. I wanted to keep the mute button on the cord of the detector.
 
#14 ·
I got the console out this morning. Very similar to previous years. Lift shifter boot with a trim tool, unbolt shifter handle, remove console center section with a trim tool, unplug heater control panel harness. Remove plastic trim panels in the rear of the console and the two bolts. Remove the two screws in the front that are now accessible from removing the center section. Console slides to the rear for 1-2 inches. Unplug remaining two wiring harness plugs at the fron of the console and it can be lifted out.

You need a trim tool, 10mm and 7mm socket to remove the console. Once out, I spliced the radar detector harness into the passenger side power outlet harness. Black wire with white stripe is ground, pink wire with orange stripe is switched power. I ran the smart cord underneath r the passenger dash, up the A pulled, underneath the head liner and to the detector hanging off the mirror with a blend mount. Worked like a champ.
 
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#15 ·
I got the console out this morning. Very similar to previous years. Lift shifter boot with a trim tool, unbolt shifter handle, remove console center section with a trim tool, unplug heater control panel harness. Remove plastic trim panels in the rear of the console and the two bolts. Remove the two screws in the front that are now accessible from removing the center section. Console slides to the rear for 1-2 inches. Unplug remaining two wiring harness plugs at the fron of the console and it can be lifted out.

You need a trim tool, 10mm and 7mm socket to remove the console. Once out, I spliced the radar detector harness into the passenger side power outlet harness. Black wire with white stripe is ground, pink wire with orange stripe is switched power. I ran the smart cord underneath r the passenger dash, up the A pulled, underneath the head liner and to the detector hanging off the mirror with a blend mount. Worked like a champ.
I figured it would be similar to previous models. Thanks for the confirmation!
 
#17 · (Edited)
I got my Val1 (using Blendmount) powered inside the passenger side A pillar which has the same keyed-on power wires that go on up to the mirror. Ran the telly cord to it, popped the cover off, just tapped in and soldered. Pink (Pin 1) is 12V key on and Black is ground.

My only beef with the Blendmount is it hangs too low (about 5/8") below the mirror for my
tastes even at its highest adjustments. Gonna mod it myself so it butts up right to the bottom of the mirror.
 
#25 ·
I'm trying to avoid running wires from the cabin to the trunk, where the item that needs power is, if at all possible and since there's a fuse box in the trunk and Mopar16hc found a 12V switched source in the box it would be much easier for me to use that instead.
 
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