3.09 diff swap (on 8A) or upper pully swap

Discussion in 'SRT Hellcat Performance' started by Dragons90, Dec 6, 2015.

  1. Dragons90

    Dragons90 Silver Member

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    Question which one would you do first? MT DR's on order already. Only mod done is a AFE drop in dry filter and catch can. Of the two what gives the most grunt from a rolling 40?
     
  2. graycat

    graycat Automobile Aficionado Extraordinaire Staff Member

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    I know that it's not one of the two things that you've mentioned but I'd say a driveshaft first.

    Plus, (my car just spun the lower crankshaft pulley) before I put an upper pulley on or as part of putting on a lower pulley,
    I'd strongly suggest pinning the lower pulley.
     
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  3. Dragons90

    Dragons90 Silver Member

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    What's involved in pinning the lower pulley or crank?? So DS with the 3.09 first is your vote? I appreciate the input
     
  4. Fast cat

    Fast cat BANNED Hellcat Car Club

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    In my opinion.309 will not void warrant.and it has a one year warranty on its self . The only thing it can hurt is the axils .
     
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  5. hellcat1

    hellcat1 Gold Member

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    I think if fca has enough crank issues, they will have to issues tsb to owners, and have it fixed( pinned).. First accident caused by loss of power they will send it
     
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  6. graycat

    graycat Automobile Aficionado Extraordinaire Staff Member

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    I agree with Fast cat using the same logic.

    If you are going to pin the lower pulley there's at least one "kit" available on line which is basically a "Drill guide" and a couple of pins plus if
    memory serves me the proper size drill bits are included in the kit. It's been my experience with other projects that require drilling to have
    more drill bits on hand and of the proper size than what you think you may need.

    I've NOT personally drilled and pinned a lower pulley on a Hellcat but there are some other members on this site that have and it seems to
    be pretty straight forward and to be something that can be done in a few hours without any special tools other than a hand drill and the pin/
    drill kit I've already mentioned.

    If you do decide to pin the lower pulley and use an overdrive pulley you should expect to also tune the car. If you pin the factory lower
    pulley a tune would not be needed. You MAY void your warranty by pinning the crank and pulley to each other. Some say yes, some say
    no and some say maybe. It's my understanding (I'm not a lawyer) that for the warranty to be voided or effected there would need to be
    reasonable evidence that your modification has in some way caused the problem that you are trying to get covered by warranty. I've done
    quite a bit of research on this and I do feel that this is in fact the case. Again, I'm not an attorney.

    My plans for my car were to drive it long enough (without any further problems, 7 trips to the dealer since I bought the car Sept30th this year)
    and keep driving the car until such a time that I had confidence in the car and then make the following mods first.

    Cut the inside rear wheel wells enough to clear 335-345 tires, widen the factory wheels for the larger tires.
    Install the 3.09 rear diff.
    Install a one piece drive shaft and lowering springs.
    I had intended to do all of this at the same time, drive the car for a few thousand miles and if no other issues occurred I would have then
    installed a CAI, larger injectors, a pulley and got the car tuned all at the same time.

    My thoughts were that the first mods would help the car and if I had issues with the expensive (motor or trans) it would be things that I
    could likely get covered under warranty. If the rear end had issues it may or may not be covered but the rear end is much cheaper and
    easier to deal with myself than the motor or transmission is.

    I hope this is good "food for thought" and helps you make your choice. My plan may be heavily flawed and I expect others to chime in
    with good or even better ideas.

    Good luck!!!
     
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  7. graycat

    graycat Automobile Aficionado Extraordinaire Staff Member

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    hellcat1...good post. I'm hoping to get more info out of Dodge, I'm sure they'll play their cards close to the vest but I believe that this problem
    is not confined to a handful of cars but is more common that any of us know or would feel comfortable with. I know it'll be expensive for Dodge
    to recall and pin all of these cars but the money saved on replacement engines and the PR issues and money spent to overcome any bad PR
    and reputation damage may cause Dodge to bite the bullet and just issue a TSB.

    I nearly ran over a curb and hit a truck when I unexpectedly lost my power steering.
    So the liability issues, which could lead to a very costly legal suit or even a class
    action suit may weigh in on the thought process for Dodge.

    I hope that a recall or TSB is implemented.
     
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  8. hellcat1

    hellcat1 Gold Member

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    I completely agree greencat.. If someone could find build dates for the cars that have had this issue.. Maybe early built cars, kinda like the radiator issues, not every car was affected..fca should really look into this more...plus eventually one of us owners are going to make a huge stink out of this....
     
  9. Hemi Rocket

    Hemi Rocket Gold Member

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    If you put DR's on you'll want to do the DS at the same time. With sticky tires on an A8 car it's just to much on the DS. When they let go they can do a lot of damage.
     
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  10. Hemi Rocket

    Hemi Rocket Gold Member

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    OP I'm a little confused on the "M8"... is it a M6 or A8? And I don't think DR's or a CAI are going to give you any more grunt but you will leave harder... but from a rolling 40 MPH start that won't really improve much.
     
  11. hellcat1

    hellcat1 Gold Member

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    I think the thought is more grunt throughout the power band, without killing your warranty..
     
  12. Dragons90

    Dragons90 Silver Member

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    Correction A8 not M8. Greencat I like your logic on doing mods together then moving to the next, I think the diff and DS will be next. Mabey the Bwoody CAI not sure yet. Keep the opinions coming coming guys. Really appreciate all you guys taking time to give me food for thought.
     
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  13. Hemi Rocket

    Hemi Rocket Gold Member

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    The mods you want to do... is the intent to keep the warranty in place? ... or does that not matter?
     
  14. SRT_HC_707

    SRT_HC_707 SRT_HC_707 Staff Member

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    greencat do you happen to know what your build number is?
     
  15. Dragons90

    Dragons90 Silver Member

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    I think keeping the warranty in tact for now is the best. I only have 800 miles on it now and sees like others are poping up with issues around 3500 miles. Mine is a 2016 so we will see. I like what Greencat was saying the rear end diff / DS with wider tires first. I have the KW lowering kit along with Bwoody endlinks front and back. Ordered a Razor Edge front and back strut tower braces.
     
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