Battery dying?

Discussion in 'SRT Hellcat General Discussions' started by Sspehar, Oct 3, 2015.

  1. Sspehar

    Sspehar Hellcat Member

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    Anyone having battery issues? Went to start it today and it was dead, jumped in and had the dealership test it. Was bad so we replaced the battery, car sat for an hour and was dead again. It starts right up with a jump pack but there is no obvious draw on the system. Any ideas? Anyone else experiencing this? Thanks in advance for the help.
     
  2. Snappycat

    Snappycat SRT Hellcat Moderator Staff Member

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    Someone posted a similar occurrence about a month ago. They finally figured it out but had to go to the dealer. If I remember, it wasn't the battery. Do a thread search . Good Luck
     
  3. Angel

    Angel Gold Member

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    Let us know what it turns out to be.
     
  4. GreenPirate

    GreenPirate SRT Hellcat Supporter Gold Supporting Member

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    Yes this problem cropped up on the forum, and was fixed at the dealer.
    Good luck!
    GP
     
  5. BIG DAWG

    BIG DAWG Hellcat, 1st Florida Cavalry Hellcat Car Club Gold Supporting Member HCC National Exec. Director HCC Charter Member

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    Search under Hellcat Maintenance; re: battery dead....there's a couple of threads
     
  6. hellcat1

    hellcat1 Gold Member

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    Was some kind of sensor, Too bad B5 is not around, we would know, Maybe Bob curry will chime in, he keeps track of these things
     
  7. GreenPirate

    GreenPirate SRT Hellcat Supporter Gold Supporting Member

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    Fnkychkn posted this on the forum in June...
    It's way past my skill set, and the dealer may be the necessary interpreter...here goes:

    Excuse my ignorance but how do I test it for that? :D
    you'll need an ammeter (to measure amperes). this is the one I use:
    [​IMG]
    might be overkill for your needs. you can probably pick up a cheaper version at Harbor Freight.



    use this procedure from FSM to test IOD:
    this procedure is not model specific and some steps may be different.

    IGNITION-OFF DRAW TEST
    The term Ignition-Off Draw (IOD) identifies a normal condition where power is being drained from the battery with the ignition in the Off position. A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.

    A vehicle that has not been operated for approximately twenty days, may discharge the battery to an inadequate level. When a vehicle will not be used for twenty days or more (stored), use the scan tool to put the vehicle in shipping mode. This will reduce battery discharging.

    Excessive IOD can be caused by:



      • Electrical items left on.
      • Inoperative or improperly adjusted switches.
      • Inoperative or shorted electronic modules and components.
      • An internally shorted generator.
      • Intermittent shorts in the wiring.


    If the IOD is over thirty-five milliamperes, the problem must be found and corrected before replacing a battery. In most cases, the battery can be charged and returned to service after the excessive IOD condition has been corrected.



      • Verify that all electrical accessories are off. Turn off all lamps, turn the ignition off, and close all doors. If the vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry system or an electronically tuned radio, allow the electronic timer function of these systems to automatically shut off (time out). This may take up to ten minutes. I have found that some TCMs (NAG1) can take up to 1/2 hour to go to sleep. not sure how long it will take for the ZF.
      • Determine that the underhood lamp is operating properly, then disconnect the lamp wire harness connector or remove the lamp bulb. since battery is in trunk, keep hood closed. trip trunk latch to keep BCM thinking trunk is closed and lamp off.
      • Turn off all electrical accessories.
      • If connected, disconnect the scan tool. The scan tool can wake the modules on the vehicles or not allow them to sleep.
      • Connect a 10 gauge jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post.
      • Disconnect the negative battery cable.
        very important

        NOTE:
        Do not break the connection between the 10 amp jumper wire and the battery. If the connection between the battery negative terminal post and the negative cable terminal clamp is lost during any part of the IOD test, the electronic timer function will be activated and all of the tests will have to be repeated.






        CAUTION:
        Do not open any doors, or turn on any electrical accessories with the lowest milliampere scale selected, or the multi-meter may be damaged.
      • Turn the ignition ON and then OFF and wait 10 minutes for all systems to enter sleep mode.
      • Set an electronic digital multi-meter to its highest amperage scale. Connect the multi-meter to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post, but not on the jumper connection.
      • Remove the 10 gauge jumper wire without breaking the digital multi-meter connection.
      • The multi-meter leads must be securely clamped to the battery negative cable terminal clamp and the battery negative terminal post, but not the 10 gauge jumper wire.
      • The high-amperage IOD reading on the multi-meter should be very low or nonexistent, depending upon the electrical equipment in the vehicle. If the amperage reading remains high, remove and replace each fuse or circuit breaker in the PDC, one at a time until the amperage reading becomes very low, or nonexistent. Refer to the appropriate wiring information for complete PDC, circuit breaker, and circuit identification. This will isolate each circuit and identify the circuit that is the source of the high-amperage IOD. If the amperage reading remains high after removing and replacing each fuse, disconnect the wire harness from the generator. If the amperage reading now becomes very low or nonexistent, diagnose and repair the Charging System as necessary. After the high-amperage IOD has been corrected, switch the multi-meter to progressively lower amperage scales and, if necessary, repeat the fuse and circuit breaker remove-and-replace process to identify and correct all sources of excessive IOD. It is now safe to select the lowest milliampere scale of the multi-meter to check the low-amperage IOD.
      • Observe the multi-meter reading. The low-amperage IOD should not exceed thirty-five milliamperes (0.035 ampere). If the current draw exceeds thirty-five milliamperes, isolate each circuit using the fuse and circuit breaker remove and replace process in Step 10. The multi-meter reading will drop to within the acceptable limit when the source of the excessive current draw is disconnected. Repair this circuit as required; whether a wiring short, incorrect switch adjustment, or an inoperative component is the cause.
     
  8. BIG DAWG

    BIG DAWG Hellcat, 1st Florida Cavalry Hellcat Car Club Gold Supporting Member HCC National Exec. Director HCC Charter Member

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    ZOWIE! What a repost...awesome...what does it mean? :eek::rolleyes::eek::rolleyes:
     
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  9. GreenPirate

    GreenPirate SRT Hellcat Supporter Gold Supporting Member

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    Fnkychkn is "the one". The level of technical knowledge in his posts is off the charts!:eek::oops::eek:
    Prompts me to want to go back to school!
     
  10. purnrg

    purnrg BANNED

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    Don't leave the key in the car either, even the trunk
     
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  11. 707 Fc7

    707 Fc7 Gold Member

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    My 09 SRT8 will have dead battery if sits for a couple of weeks. New battery did not make a difference. I just put a battery tender on it.
     
  12. 707 Fc7

    707 Fc7 Gold Member

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    I battery tender everything that sits..old cars, generators, zero turn mower, newer non daily drivers
     
  13. NorCaletch19He77Kat

    NorCaletch19He77Kat Silver Member

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    with NO obvious draw--you probably got a bad battery off the shelf--happens!
     
  14. yurdaddy

    yurdaddy Silver Member

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    I had the same problem. There is a ground wire on the back of the motor that's loose. Have them check all grounds. They also changed out my starter at the same time.
     
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  15. Coldheartid

    Coldheartid Silver Member

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    After 3 dead battery, Monday morning off to work attempted starts. And after going to the stealership and them telling me there is nothing wrong with the battery. I decided to look here in the Great forum of information you will never get from the dealer.

    Here is how I did my IOD test.

    Taking into account everything learned from the previous poster on this subject. I added a few things and omitted some steps for simplicity.

    1. Open the hood encase I have to pull fuses there later if mA is greater then 35mA.[​IMG]
    2. Place heavy object on switch to make car think hood is closed. see pics.[​IMG]
    3. Open trunk and push latch with screwdriver to make car think trunk is closed. see pics trunk lite is out.[​IMG]
    4. Connect meter as shown, 10A max connection. Make connection between battery (-) lug bolt with alligator clip and chassis ground near battery. Meter selection knob is in the mA,A; AC,DC position. see pics.[​IMG]
    5. Unplug grey wire connector from ground on battery lug. see pics.[​IMG]
    I plugged in and unplugged this wire to see that there was no affect during this test.

    6. Carefully disconnect flat ground terminal at battery and put it to one side.

    At this point your cars only ground is through the meter, all current draw is displayed on meter.

    Findings;

    With alarm off, doors not locked I got 5 to 6 mA draw, tested for around 30 mins. Even with FOB near and around car.

    I set alarm, doors locked,Horn blew, lite blinking on dash. Amperage jumped to just over 8amps for a very short time then was up and down between 2amps to .2amps then 1amp then .120amps and finally settled down to 10 to 15mA after 10 mins. Couldn't download movie to show this, sorry.

    I then unlocked the doors and found a similar reaction to settle back down to 5 to 6mA after about 10 mins.[​IMG]

    Final conclusion, there is no abnormal draw on my battery, at least under this test method.
     

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