I got this idea from another member here who did the same thing. I just wanted more close ups, so I figured I'd post them.
Here are some close up tire/fender shots. The yardstick is resting flat on the ground and touching the bottom of the tire-and resting on the center of the fender. The space you see is because of the negative camber (brings the top of the tire in slightly) from the factory. Vertically, the bottom of the factory tire is essentially on the fender's edge.
This shows a pretty solid +/- 1/2 inch of space that could be pushed outward in the rim/tire department without striking the fender. For reference, the yardstick is 1/4 of an inch thick.
Left Side
Right side
Right Side
As you can clearly see, the factory 9.5 and "thin" 275 are almost outside of the fender as is. Simply adding a fatter tire will push the tire to the very edge, or just outside of the fender. Our fenders are already "knife point" (rolled from factory technically) so we can push the edge, or go outside of it if that is your preference.
Here are some close up tire/fender shots. The yardstick is resting flat on the ground and touching the bottom of the tire-and resting on the center of the fender. The space you see is because of the negative camber (brings the top of the tire in slightly) from the factory. Vertically, the bottom of the factory tire is essentially on the fender's edge.
This shows a pretty solid +/- 1/2 inch of space that could be pushed outward in the rim/tire department without striking the fender. For reference, the yardstick is 1/4 of an inch thick.
Left Side
Right side
Right Side
As you can clearly see, the factory 9.5 and "thin" 275 are almost outside of the fender as is. Simply adding a fatter tire will push the tire to the very edge, or just outside of the fender. Our fenders are already "knife point" (rolled from factory technically) so we can push the edge, or go outside of it if that is your preference.