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53K views 132 replies 34 participants last post by  RacingBrake 
#1 · (Edited)
The Demon Performance HellCat brake system is a direct replacement for the OE disc. No modifications are necessary. The disc will bolt directly to the car and work with OE calipers perfectly. By upgrading your brakes with lightweight high performance replacements as opposed to a big brake kit, your factory bias is maintained as well as your ABS efficiency. The front rotors are 24.4 lbs vs. 31 lbs for the stock HC 2 piece units. The rear rotors are 18.9 lbs vs. 24 lbs for the stock units. This reduction in rotational and unsprung weight allows for quicker acceleration and suspension response.

The central hat section of our rotor is made from strictly U.S. sourced 6061-T6 aircraft specification aluminum. The disc is made from our own proprietary cast iron, poured in the USA and machined from start to finish for us specifically. The rotor utilizes a curved vane design, developed in racing to act as a centrifugal pump to force cooling air through the disc.

The rotor and hat have a floating mount system, which utilizes 12 high strength alloy steel drive pins, manufactured in the USA to our own specifications and cadmium plated for a long lasting corrosion resistance. These pins take the load from braking actions while maintaining the axial and radial float between the hat and disc. The pins are secured by grade 12 cap screws with hardened washers. In order to keep the rotors from making noise when cold, the pins are mounted with anti-noise spring washers on the rotor side which allow the rotor to grow with heat expansion but eliminate the rattle and noise associated with floating rotors. This float also allows the rotor to self-center between the pads.


Once the Demon Performance brake system is in place, simply replace the rotor rings when needed.

$1499 for the Front Set
$800 for replacement rotor rings/hardware

$1129 for the Rear Set
$600 for replacement rotor rings/hardware


Disc brake Auto part Vehicle brake Wheel Brake


Product Auto part Disc brake Electronics Vehicle brake
Product Disc brake Auto part Automotive wheel system Wheel



$325 for S/S Racing Pads - Front
$180 for S/S Racing Pads - Rear


Brand new intermediate pad called the S/S pads for street/strip. These pads feature a hotter compound than our standard Street pads and are capable of maintaining braking efficiency up to 1000 degrees. Inevitably these will dust a little more than our Street pads and can make a little noise from time to time however with our anti noise backing plates which all pads will come with we have heard very little to no noise from these pads.

Comparatively the S/S pads perform very similarly to the Ferodo DS2500's, a pad which we have had very good luck with in the past.


$250 for Street Pads - Front
$150 for Street Pads - Rear


Street Pads are the solution to your squeaky, dusty, expensive factory pads. They have less dust than typical factory pads and much less than typical performance pads. You won't be cleaning your wheels nearly as often. Additionally, they have great initial bite, something most less expensive pads are lacking. But the real reason people like our pads so much is they are the "silver bullet" to brake noise problems. Street pads are a semi-metallic composition that is easy on the rotors and the wallet. We recommend always replacing pads as a whole car set when switching compounds. All street pads come with our anti-noise shields pre-installed, included in the price. When comparison shopping, be sure to notice the quality of our components. Any questions, give us a call, we're happy to help!
 
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#2 · (Edited)
When someone tests them out, Please post up your results !

The Truth is Told at The Track!!
Linda :)
 
#3 ·
Here's a great spiff for anyone looking for a set of these in the near future!

If you pre-order a full brake package; front rotors, rear rotors, and pads. We'll give you a 15% discount off your order! That's over $400 in savings!

Give us a shout and we'll get you setup with the best high performance replacement brakes in the industry for your HC!
 
#5 ·
Carcass, thanks!

We're working on a new platform for our web-store. It's a looong process to say the least with our current shop/manufacturing workload but we're slowly plugging away at it. If there's anything you ever need, just shoot us a call, message here, fb message, etc and we'll be glad to set you up. We carry all the major manufacturers out there with competitive pricing. If we don't, we'll pick them up for you!
 
#7 ·
TrackDay, I'll break up stock HC unit and a Jeep SRT8 WK2 unit apart shortly and show you guys the weight difference the individual pieces. The Jeep SRT8 utilizes the same size 380MM rotor ring so the weight for our HC 2 piece units will be the same, if not lighter, than we've advertised.

We have not done any testing on the HC application just yet. The manufacturer of these rotors, Girodisc, has tested this style rotor on multiple street/race applications however. The rotors are the same style rotor rings used in all of their high performance brake systems; Audi, BMW, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Mercedes, McLaren, Nissan, Porsche, etc.


A couple things to note about these brakes:

We recommend running slotted discs for high performance applications. The rapid heating and cooling cycles will cause cracking on the friction surface of a drilled disc. The use of high friction or racing pads will exaggerate this condition. Most pad manufacturers specifically recommend that their race pads not be used on a drilled disc for this reason.

For maximum airflow and superior cooling, this brake system uses curved vanes. For a curved vane internally vented disc, the geometry of the vanes dictates the direction of rotation. A curved vane disc must be installed with the vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation. Your discs will come with labels indicating their correct placement on the vehicle. Orienting the disc in this manner creates a centrifugal pump. The rotation of the disc causes air to be pumped from the center of the disc, through the vanes, and out through the outside diameter of the disc. This greatly enhances the disc’s ability to dissipate heat.




Another cool thing about these rotors is that the slots also act as a rotor wear bar. Once the slot is worn down, your rotor is at the minimum thickness and should be replaced.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Here you go ladies and gents. Weights of everything broken apart.

Surprisingly, the rotor hats weighed the same once I removed the hardware retainers form the OEM hat.

Demon Rotor Hat

Disc brake Auto part Technology Vehicle brake


Demon Hat Hardware (didn't register weight, I'll see if I can measure on a postage scale some other time, apx .2lbs however)
Technology Machine


Demon Rotor Ring - 380mm shown, 390mm ring weighs 21.5lbs

Auto part Disc brake


Stock HC Rotor Hat

Auto part Disc brake Vehicle brake Clutch part Clutch


Stock HC Hat Hardware

Technology Electronics Electronic device Metal


Stock HC Rotor Ring

Bicycle part Auto part Disc brake Vehicle brake



Hope that helps!

 
#10 · (Edited)
Very nice setup.

While your setup seems to have better cooling do you think they might me more prone to warping due to the heavy weight of the car? The OE units seem to have more cast iron in the picture... More unsprung weight but I'm thinking they may be less prone to warping too.

I'm not knocking your product in any way (looks great)... Just an honest question as these cars are HEAVY!
 
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#11 ·
i cant see photos linked to photobucket. can you upload them instead? my company blocks photobucket type sites
 
#15 ·
Uploaded directly and not via photobucket. Hopefully you can see them now!

Looks like a nice product but I would like to see some on road/track results after some use. I'm sure many folks won't be tracking their cars hard but will appreciate the diligence has been performed to make certain these will hold up at least to OEM level.

Also, are my eyes messing with me or is the hat a bit taller for your product versus OEM?
We'll definitely report back with some hard data once the test units go on. We're not looking to hold up to OEM level, the whole point of making these was to excel beyond othat of OEM levels. Plus it doesn't hurt that our fronts cost less than the dealer charges for a pair of your stock front units :p

Your eyes aren't messing with you. I broke down one of our WK2 Jeep SRT8 2 piece rotors that we have in stock to compare the weight differences. The hat design/shape is slightly different than that of the HC cars with the addition of the bolt pattern differences but the weight of the hat is the same. The rotor rings and hardware however will be identical as they both utilize the same 380mm rotor.

We're awaiting the arrival of the HC inventory so we can go out and test :)

Thanks for the feedback.

Do you offer any cryo treating for the rotor rings?
We can definitely accommodate this for you. I'll have to check and see what the pricing will run on that but I can't imagine it'll be more than 50 per corner if not cheaper.
 
#12 ·
The more input the better!

I understand your concerns when it comes to the weight factor compared to a lighter race car type application. We've been testing these on some heavier vehicles however and have yet to run into warp issues due to weight or heat. You have to keep in mind, we introduced these for the 2012-2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 before putting the HC system into motion. The 2012-15 Jeep GCSRT8's come in at 5150 without any add ons. We have one that goes down the track with these rotors weighing in at a whopping 5525 with me behind the wheel. 2012, ProLine built forged 392, Demon F1 kit, me @ ~170lbs, 22" wheels, full interior and all. Zero issues so far :)

We're also wrapping up a built/turbo powered 2015 Jeep SRT8 that's heading to Europe soon. He'll be racing around the Nurburgring with our full front/rear Demon brake package regularly. Full weight to boot!

Rotor warp is a weird subject. A lot of people think that it's due to heat. Sure, the heat WILL amplify or hurt what the rotor is doing over time but 99% of the time a "warped" rotor is due to improper installation, improper manufacturer rotor run out (which is rare) and/or bad bedding of a brake pad with improper installation. Or a combination of all of the above.

For instance, that same rotor ring you see broken down in the above pictures has an exact run out of 0.0006. OEM spec's are .002. IF you were to install this rotor and there was some trash on one side of the hub before installation, you've installed it as out of round to the mount. You've basically set yourself up to "warp" your rotor over time because it's not going to be installed true and straight. That imbalance of rotation with the piece of trash between the rub and rotor hat going to cause a wobble on the brand new unit. Once installed you guys will/should always go out and bed in the new pads. Doing so on a rotor that is mounted out of round is going to give you high and low spots when bedding, causing the "warp" factor. If it's not addressed right away, it will only get worse on the wobble and the parts.

Hope I didn't confuse anyone with that bit of info.
 
#13 ·
Looks like a nice product but I would like to see some on road/track results after some use. I'm sure many folks won't be tracking their cars hard but will appreciate the diligence has been performed to make certain these will hold up at least to OEM level.

Also, are my eyes messing with me or is the hat a bit taller for your product versus OEM?
 
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#14 ·
Thanks for the feedback.

Do you offer any cryo treating for the rotor rings?
 
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#17 ·
Don't forget the 2 piece REARs that are coming too! Sure they will be a bit more expensive over the stock cast rear pieces are but they will be about 35% lighter!

Unsprung mass savings is worth tenfold compared to sprung weight savings at the end of the day. :)
 
#18 ·
Thanks for the info. on cryo.

These look very, very nice. Again, a curiosity question. Where the hat bolts to the rotor it looks like every other bolt uses the spring tension thing and the others use flat washers. Why every other and what keeps the non-spring tension bolts from coming loose. Also, what's the torque spec on these when replacing.

I really like these!
 
#19 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info. on cryo.

These look very, very nice. Again, a curiosity question. Where the hat bolts to the rotor it looks like every other bolt uses the spring tension thing and the others use flat washers. Why every other and what keeps the non-spring tension bolts from coming loose. Also, what's the torque spec on these when replacing.

I really like these!
Here you go!

In order to keep the rotors from making noise when cold, some of the pins are mounted with anti-noise spring washers on the rotor side which allow the rotor to grow with heat expansion but eliminate the rattle and noise associated with floating rotors. This float also allows the rotor to self-center between the pads.

Over the years they've come to find out that not every pin needs to have a spring clip for noise reduction. A few would do the trick but to make things easy/symmetrical, they use one on every other pin. The amount of resistance to float only needs a handful of spring clips to eliminate noise. Those aren't just flat washers you see in the pictures next to the spring clipped fasteners. Conical (Belleville) washers are used on every other fastener to also allow for some axial growth without putting too much stress on the head of the fastener. It's all about making sure that the cap screws aren't loaded too much from swelling (Axial growth) so the fastener heads don't pop off from the added stress. All of the drive pins are slightly longer than the overall thickness of the rotor ring mounts and hat combined to allow for that axial growth to happen.

We recommend 60inch/lbs (5ft/lbs)) for the fasteners when replacing the rings with a dab of red loctite. Also chase the thread in the drive pins out to clean out any of the old thread locker before reinstalling everything.
 
#20 ·
Thank you very much for such comprehensive answers. I admit I'm still concerned about such a large percentage weight loss in the rotor itself. I think if the materials are similar the lighter rotor would be more susceptible to warping. I know as you have pointed out they are similar to what has been tested on heavier WK vehicles. However, I think you can count on one hand the number of them blasting around a road course for 20 minute sessions. I have no doubt the weight savings are very valuable to the drag racers out there but I'm on the fence about suitability for track days until I see some good data. If I was close to needing a set I'd consider buying a set and providing some of that data but I'll likely make it through this summer on my original hardware.

Honestly, I'm just as interested in the new brake pad selections you are offering right now.
 
#21 ·
TrackDay, no worries sir. That's what we're here for! The more you guys know, the better. You're def right about the amount of WK vehicles going around a road course. I know of less than a dozen that do it religiously. I spoke to Girodisc about rotor warp issues as well just to see if they had any feedback on it. They also stated that it was rare for their rotors to wrap due to heat from heavy track use. Like I stated before, rotor warp generally happens from improper installation (not square on hub when installed), improper torquing of the wheels that will cause the imbalance, and the bedding procedures to follow.

We've done a good bit of testing of the pads over the past few months. They are by far some of the best we've ever used. The street pads will be the more commonly used pads over the race pads for most of you guys. The street pads bite harder and better than stock and most aftermarket units and they don't dust nearly as much. The race pads are a step up from them as far as performance goes but they will dust a bit more and have the occasional noise from time to time.
 
#24 ·
When are these rotors due to be released? I see you are based out of SC. Do you allow people to stop by your shop to buy things or is it all over the phone and online? Truley lighter rotors should improve stopping distance as well. Less weight equals less inertia.

The HC comes with exceptionally powerful brakes. I think it would be difficult to improve on them, but I look forward to your tests. I also look forward to hear what other HC owners real world experience is too.
 
#25 ·
We're hoping to have these in hand later this month/early July if everything goes as planned. You're more than welcome to stop by if you're ever in the area! We love meeting new enthusiasts! If you can't, we can always get you taken care of online or over the phone too. You're def right about the less inertia statement, but the whole premise of these was for the acceleration/weight loss for the racers.

You are correct, they do come with a very large brake setup. There aren't very many super-cars out there that even come with a 390mm rotor! Only time will tell I suppose :) We'll be sure to put them to the test either way.

I can guarantee you that we will improve on the rears however;)
 
#27 ·
Thank you very much for such comprehensive answers. I admit I'm still concerned about such a large percentage weight loss in the rotor itself. I think if the materials are similar the lighter rotor would be more susceptible to warping. I know as you have pointed out they are similar to what has been tested on heavier WK vehicles. However, I think you can count on one hand the number of them blasting around a road course for 20 minute sessions. I have no doubt the weight savings are very valuable to the drag racers out there but I'm on the fence about suitability for track days until I see some good data. If I was close to needing a set I'd consider buying a set and providing some of that data but I'll likely make it through this summer on my original hardware.

Honestly, I'm just as interested in the new brake pad selections you are offering right now.
TrackDay, no worries sir. That's what we're here for! The more you guys know, the better. You're def right about the amount of WK vehicles going around a road course. I know of less than a dozen that do it religiously. I spoke to Girodisc about rotor warp issues as well just to see if they had any feedback on it. They also stated that it was rare for their rotors to wrap due to heat from heavy track use. Like I stated before, rotor warp generally happens from improper installation (not square on hub when installed), improper torquing of the wheels that will cause the imbalance, and the bedding procedures to follow.

We've done a good bit of testing of the pads over the past few months. They are by far some of the best we've ever used. The street pads will be the more commonly used pads over the race pads for most of you guys. The street pads bite harder and better than stock and most aftermarket units and they don't dust nearly as much. The race pads are a step up from them as far as performance goes but they will dust a bit more and have the occasional noise from time to time.


DemonSkip

My question is this, somewhere back in the days of thermodynamics, the generalization that was made regarding brakes, was that all things being equal, the mass of the rotors (and therefor their ability to absorb heat) was the overriding factor in endurance...

Now having said that, I realize that all things are not equal between your system and the OEM system, but what you're implicitly saying is that while you've reduced mass (and therefor the disks ability to absorb heat), you've made up for it in cooling efficiency...

Further, the proof is/will be in the pudding...

Lets see some pudding...
 
#28 ·
I wonder if any update on this.
Just need to approve the test pieces before we have the rest run off. Should be ready to roll in the next weeks to come.

DemonSkip

My question is this, somewhere back in the days of thermodynamics, the generalization that was made regarding brakes, was that all things being equal, the mass of the rotors (and therefor their ability to absorb heat) was the overriding factor in endurance...

Now having said that, I realize that all things are not equal between your system and the OEM system, but what you're implicitly saying is that while you've reduced mass (and therefor the disks ability to absorb heat), you've made up for it in cooling efficiency...

Further, the proof is/will be in the pudding...

Lets see some pudding...
Working on the pudding now! We're very close to perfecting the recipe ;)
 
#29 ·
We recommend 60inch/lbs (5ft/lbs)) for the fasteners when replacing the rings with a dab of red loctite. Also chase the thread in the drive pins out to clean out any of the old thread locker before reinstalling everything.
IMO, I'd be directing folks to the hi temp specialty loctite, and not the red normally on the shelves, for brake work (see attached.) My 2c just wanna help..
 

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