Look Ma, NO DRL's!! DIY On 2015/16 Challenger

Discussion in 'SRT Hellcat Electronics' started by Siffert, Apr 16, 2016.

  1. Siffert

    Siffert Hellcat Member

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    If you are like me, you do NOT like lights on in Daylight! Now we all know about turning off the Amber DRL's in the App settings, but what about those 4 bright white LED Halo rings still ON in Daytime? Woo Hoo! Finally figured it out. Look Ma, NO DRL's!

    After a bit of trial and error, it turns out the white halo DRL's are controlled by Pin 14 wiring circuit (Front Sidemarkers) on the Headlight Lamp Assembly connectors. Pink wire on Passenger Side, White/Pink on Driver's Side. Running on only 1 volt, this circuit turns on led side markers at night (headlights on) or when the parking lamps are on. But in daytime (ie: headlights off and parking lights off), the same circuit supplies 12 volts for the bright DRL halo led's.

    By using a mini 15 amp step down buck voltage regulator (placed securely inside a small plastic project box) for each side and directing the Pin 14 and Pin7 (Black, ground) cut wires in and out of the regulator, then reducing the voltage just below 5 volts (via the pot on the regulator) which shuts the DRL halo's down completely, yet still supplies enough voltage for the side markers to still work. The BCM does not check line sense voltage on the side marker circuit (nor the parking lamp circuit). Thus, everything else on the lighting system continues to operate normally with no warning lights etc.

    You'll need:
    1. Two of Drok Mini Electric Buck Voltage Converter DC to DC Step-down Transformer High Power 15A Volt Regulator Board Synchronous Inverter Module 4-32V to 1.2V-32V for 12V 24V.

    [​IMG] Amazon.com: DROK® Mini Electric Buck Voltage Converter DC to DC Step-down Transformer High Power 15A Volt Regulator Board Synchronous Inverter Module 4-32V to 1.2V-32V for 12V 24V Adjustable LED Driver Car Laptop Power Supply: Electronics


    2. Two of Hammond 1591SBK Black Flame Retardant ABS Plastic Project Box -- Inches (4.3" x 3.2" x 1.6")

    [​IMG] Hammond 1591SBK Black Flame Retardant ABS Plastic Project Box -- Inches (4.3" x 3.2" x 1.6") mm (110mm x 82mm x 40mm) - Electrical Boxes - Amazon.com


    3. Voltmeter, soldering iron, 20 gauge wire (Drok cannot handle thicker), electrical tape and/or heat shrink tubing, nuts and bolts. I used 1/4" x3/4 " hex bolts/nuts and 1/4" holed washers to attach the project box under the hood on passenger side (VHB on driver's side).. For inside the project box I used 1/2" wide pieces of wood taped down by VHB tape and tiny #4 x 3/8" screws screwed into the wood through the Drok regulator 4 corner holes.

    Total Cost about $65.00-$75.00. Yeah, its a bit time consuming and a wee bit costly but much simpler/cheaper/less time consuming than removing the bumper and complete headlamp assembly for to use a Diode Dynamics kit or Oracle Kit to remotely dim or turn them off.

    See Install pics in my next post below.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2016
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  2. fnkychkn

    fnkychkn swollen member Gold Supporting Member

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    That's some good MacGyvering.
    Can you fix the attached pics.
     
  3. Siffert

    Siffert Hellcat Member

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    Img_1959A.jpg Img_1962A.jpg Img_1968A.jpg Img_1970A.jpg Img_1973A.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 16, 2016
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  4. pinetreecat

    pinetreecat Gold Member

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    thats an awesome 'fix' for guys who don't like the DRL.

    However when step one is "cut the wire" you're going to lose 95% of the guys on here that DIY.

    I appreciate you posting a solution. Thanks.
     
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  5. Siffert

    Siffert Hellcat Member

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    Thank you. After extensive research on this, the ONLY way not to "touch" the existing wiring is (which excludes using the Diode Dyamics Modular DRL kit which you "tap" into the headlamp assembly wires):

    Remove your bumper, remove your headlamp assembly, break the seal on the headlamp cover (lotsa luck on that), remove the halo's and driver boards, replace with Oracle halo's and driver boards, reseal the headlamp cover, reinstall the headlamp assembly, reinstall the bumper, install the Oracle remote kit and then press the button on the remote to turn the halo's off. You can send the headlamp assembly to Oracle (good idea-though it is 2-3 weeks turnaround time) for them to break the seal (they saw it), install their parts and reseal the cover. Cost around $500 to Oracle for their parts and labor. Bumper and headlamp removal/reinstall is additional cost if you do not DIY it. Of course you are "breaking" the seal on the headlight covers and "cutting a hole" in the rear headlamp assembly orange air plugs to push some wires through.

    I could if I wanted to, remove all my parts, solder the cut wires back together and re-wrap the factory fabric tape so that a Dodge tech/mechanic would never notice anything was "cut". btw-I did a similar DRL disable "cut wire" surgery years ago (using relay's & load resistors) on my former $70K C6 Z06.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2016
  6. TallCool1

    TallCool1 Gold Member Hellcat Car Club Gold Supporting Member Nat'l Hellcat Tech Advisor HCC Charter Member

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    Slick man I like!

    Siffert have you messed around with any of the Drok step up converters? I'm looking for one 5vdc in (b+) 5...6vdc out, it can go higher but need to be stable and adjustable 5...6vdc out range. Any ideas?
     
  7. Siffert

    Siffert Hellcat Member

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    You know what the amps are? Go on Amazon and search for "Drok Step Up". I saw some that can handle around 2-3 amps (like (DROK® LM2577 DC Boost Power Converter 3-34V to 4-35V 3A Adjustable Step Up Voltage Regulator Board). Some higher too. Stay away from those Drok's with LED's and stick to just analog. Drok's analog's are very stable & efficient but generally you need at least a 1 volt difference between in and out.
     
  8. TallCool1

    TallCool1 Gold Member Hellcat Car Club Gold Supporting Member Nat'l Hellcat Tech Advisor HCC Charter Member

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    Very low current draw <1A tks
     
  9. Siffert

    Siffert Hellcat Member

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  10. TallCool1

    TallCool1 Gold Member Hellcat Car Club Gold Supporting Member Nat'l Hellcat Tech Advisor HCC Charter Member

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  11. carcass

    carcass SRT Hellcat Supporter Gold Supporting Member

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    Thank you!
     
  12. Siffert

    Siffert Hellcat Member

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    Carcass, I forgot to mention the install is easy to reach the headlamp assembly connectors simply by removing those 2 long plastic fascia pieces over the radiator which pop right out. While the wiring from the project box only needs about 8 inches to reach the headlamp wiring, I made mine about 18" long so to make easy access to the Drok for adjusting the pot etc. by being able to put it in the area temporarily where those plastic pieces are.
     
  13. VAL

    VAL Senior Hellcat Member

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    "If you are like me, you do NOT like lights on in Daylight! Now we all know about turning off the Amber DRL's in the App settings, but what about those 4 bright white LED Halo rings still ON in Daytime?"

    Sorry, I am confused. I have my 2016 set up through App Settings so only my amber lights are on while I am driving. The headlights only come on when it gets dark. With this setting, only my amber lights flash when unlocking and entering the car also. What am I missing?
     
  14. Siffert

    Siffert Hellcat Member

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    [QUOTE="VAL, post: 385375, member: 5560"Sorry, I am confused. I have my 2016 set up through App Settings so only my amber lights are on while I am driving. The headlights only come on when it gets dark. With this setting, only my amber lights flash when unlocking and entering the car also. What am I missing?[/QUOTE]

    Assuming you have a USA car, You are not missing anything. If you turn ON the ambers in settings, your bright Ambers are ON in daylight and the DRL bright 4 white halo's are also ON in the daytime. At night, when your headlights are ON, your bright Ambers are OFF and the 4 halos are ON, but are 50% dimmed. If you turn OFF your Ambers in the settings, what you then get is the 4 bright white halo's ON in daylight and the halo's are 50% dimmed when the headlights are ON.

    Simplified:: When your headlights are ON, your halo's are ON (but dimmed) and your Ambers are OFF. When the parking lights are ON, your Ambers are ON, and your halo's are dimmed. When the headlights are OFF, your ambers are ON and your halos's are ON at 100% bright.

    Take your car outside in daylight, put it in park, keep the engine running, go out the door and look at the front of the car. See your ambers and your white halo's ON.

    Finally, some object to turning off the Ambers in settings, yet still have the bright halo's ON in daylight. Thus, this is what this DIY is about.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2016
  15. VAL

    VAL Senior Hellcat Member

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