Pinning the Crank - 'How to', Photos & Service Documents

Discussion in 'SRT Hellcat Maintenance' started by owenspackman, Jan 23, 2016.

  1. owenspackman

    owenspackman BritishCat

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    **This post is just to document my installation and to show the steps for those who may be interested. It's not a post to discuss the Pro/Cons of pinning. There are many of those on the forum, if you feel the need!**

    Pinning the crank - A much harder job than I ever thought.

    I've had some limited experience with working on cars, I managed the Metco Pulley swap on the Hellcat, lowering springs and have pulled off Challenger front fascia's off before, so had thought pinning the crank wouldn't be too hard.

    My pinning kit arrived from HHP (it includes the bolt/bushing for drilling, pin and 1/4" HSS Drill bit) and my replacement crank bolt, so I was ready to go.

    Firstly, I always have a nightmare jacking the car, it sits so low my jacks never fit under, I guess it's time to invest it a decent low profile jack, but, for now I just drive up onto 2x4's to make things a little easier.

    Up she went.
    IMG_5120.jpg IMG_5121.jpg IMG_5122.jpg

    Removing the front fascia can be a pretty long process, many hidden push pins and nuts. To save me writing out all of the instructions, I've attached the service document provided in another thread by ResumeSpeed.

    Here are some other photos of the fascia removal.
    IMG_5123.jpg IMG_5124.jpg IMG_5125.jpg IMG_5126.jpg IMG_5127.jpg

    Then comes the harder work. We removed the radiator and fan. They both have to come out from under the car, no way they'll fit removing from the top, no matter how hard you try. You'll need to drain the radiator of all coolant and then some, because it's going to be messy. We left the A/C and Heat Exchanger in the car, there would certainly be more room if these were removed, but we weren't even about to start messing with that. We just used some bungees to help support them.

    Again, I've added a service document, to help with he fan/radiator removal.

    Removing the crank bolt was easier than I had thought. The crank bolt is 13/16", being an M6 car, we just put it in gear, used a 13/16" shallow socket, with a 1/2" breaker bar. It broke loose much easier than expected.
    IMG_5215.jpg

    IMG_5216.jpg IMG_5217.jpg IMG_5218.jpg

    Next was to install the pinning kit bolt and bushing, just tightened down with a ratchet, I believe this was a 15/16" socket.

    Now was time to start drilling! This is where things slowed down and became much harder than I had expected.....

    We had a small compressor and a 90 degree drill, we drilled, we drilled and we drilled....
    IMG_5219.jpg IMG_5227.jpg IMG_5228.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2016
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  2. owenspackman

    owenspackman BritishCat

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    With all this drilling, our drill stop never ever got any closer and we were making no progress. We ran to Lowes, picked up a 1/4" cobalt drill and started again. More time passed and just no progress. We ended up giving up, as you can see from these photos, very little progress. We assumed our compressor just didn't have the ass to provide consistent, high PSI to the drill motor.

    As you can see. We made very little progress. I was frustrated and worried I was going to have to tow the car to a local shop, to let them finish the work.
    IMG_5238.jpg

    I got my hands on a beast of a compressor, which was giving constant PSI of 120 and grabbed some new drill bits, I got carbide this time. I set back to drilling, instant chips and within 10minutes my drill stop was at the bushing. Done, drilled!
    IMG_5278.jpg IMG_5279.jpg IMG_5280.jpg

    Once drilled, I checked and double checked that i had drilled deep enough into the crank. Then it was time for a thorough clean up, removing all the chips, then inserting the roll pin. The pin went in snug and just needed a gentle punch to be fully seated.
    IMG_5286.jpg IMG_5288.jpg IMG_5290.jpg

    All that's left is to install the new crank bolt, remember NEW, don't reuse the old one. I had to loan a torque wrench from AutoZone ($100 refunded when returned) as the bolt must be installed at 239ft-lbs. You'll find the crank just spins as you attempt to torque the bolt, I had to open the cover plate on the fly-wheel and place a crow-bar in there to help lock everything up. worked a charm, although 239ft-lbs takes some work!
    IMG_5294.jpg IMG_5295.jpg

    All that's left is to reinstall the fan, radiator and fascia. This job takes time and should only be attempted by someone with a decent amount of automotive experience. My car was down for 1-1/2 weeks because of this job. It took many hours or work.

    I had a local shop quote me $160 for the job, I should have snapped their hand off!

    If you have any questions, let me know. I'll do my best to answer them.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 23, 2016
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  3. 1FSTCAT

    1FSTCAT The Punisher

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    Great job. $160 would not have given you the knowledge that it was done right.
     
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  4. Sublimecat

    Sublimecat Silver Member

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    Nice write up. Thanks for taking the time to add it to the forum. Consider making a Wiki.
     
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  5. HCone

    HCone Gold Member

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    hmmmm, Mike from Bwoody told me yesterday to just remove the fan shroud and use a right angle drill, also said to use 2 pins not one.
    He assured me that there is no need to remove front end or radiator
     
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  6. owenspackman

    owenspackman BritishCat

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    It'll certainly be tight with the radiator in there, but you may be able to make it work. Yes, bwoody sell their kit with two pins.
     
    Last edited: Jan 23, 2016
  7. HCone

    HCone Gold Member

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    cripes I'm worried now.........:(
     
  8. owenspackman

    owenspackman BritishCat

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    I wouldn't be worried. If your 90degree drill is small enough you could be fine.

    I had originally planned to use a standard electric drill so always planned to remove both the fan and radiator. But there wasn't room for that drill, even with the radiator out. So then I went compressor and 90 drill route.

    Two pins certainly isn't a bad thing. Many people use two. Also many believe 1 is more than sufficient. If you're good with turning wrenches you'll be fine, the hardest part was removal and install of radiator and fan, the actually pinning of the crank (one the drill worked properly) was the easiest part!
     
  9. graycat

    graycat Automobile Aficionado Extraordinaire Staff Member

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    Great thread. There's several members that think pinning the crank is a bad idea. I've dealt with a spun harmonic balancer, in fact, my soon to be replaced car has been sitting at the dealership since Dec 4th waiting on a new motor and my replacement car is in "G" status as of Thursday afternoon. I hope to actually have it soon and I WILL BE PINNING THE CRANK AND PULLEY TO ONE ANOTHER!

    I've been watching some other threads about your car, are you happy with the parts that you've used? I'm planning on doing some things like pinning
    the crank, one pc drive shaft, 3.09 diff, widening the rear wheels for bigger tires. At that point I'd like to make more power. I've been watching your
    car and a few others like TC and his wife to learn about what works and what doesn't.

    What are your thoughts?
     
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  10. HCone

    HCone Gold Member

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    I was only concerned with the hardness of the crank and the drill bit issue, especially with 2 pins and on my back with a right angle drill, it sounds like a royal PIA. I have no issue slinging wrenches at all, built engines, motorcycles, and been a compressor mechanic for many years.
    So I will tackle it, actually after I spoke to Mike I called a dealer SRT tech to see if he would come and give me a hand with the pulley swap and pinning. He actually already had my rad out and replaced it under warranty, so he would certainly know how to get the rad shroud out .
    Great write up!!!! I will have him look at your posts before we perform surgery:)
     
  11. TNCHARGER

    TNCHARGER SRT Hellcat Supporter Gold Supporting Member

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    This thread comes just in time...plan on installing the ATI this coming week along with pinning the crank....thanks OP!
     
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  12. owenspackman

    owenspackman BritishCat

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    Just make sure to have a few spare bits ready. HSS would be just fine I'm sure and good air pressure and some patience. I wonder if the surface of the crank is hardened and once I eventually broke through the drilling was easier.....or the first compressor I used just sucked.

    You won't need to drill from underneath. You'll have enough space to lean over and drill from above.

    I called Josh at HHP during the project, he said he'd never heard of someone having the same trouble I did with drilling, maybe I just had some bad luck!
     
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  13. owenspackman

    owenspackman BritishCat

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    You're welcome! Good luck. Message me if you have any questions or issues during the project.
     
  14. owenspackman

    owenspackman BritishCat

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    Thank you, thank you and you're welcome!

    Really sorry to hear about your car, the exact reason I completed the project. Is Chrysler replacing your original car or did you order the new one?

    I will be taking my car to the dealer Monday for a replacement radiator too, amazing how many people have had radiator leaks and issues.

    So far I'm very happy with the mods I've done. Still working with Josh to get the tune finished, it's taking longer than I'd want, but HHP are very busy and I've had downtime with the car, such as the crank pinning, which mean I've not been able to data log.

    Keep following the build thread and feel free to ask any more specific questions you may have.
     
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  15. Linda's Hell Cat

    Linda's Hell Cat
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    Oh Man Owen I hope this all works out for you I'm curious what state are you from

    Linda
     

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