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    1. · Registered
      Charger SRT Hellcat
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      189 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #1 ·
      Hello,

      I have a 2017 Charger Hellcat, and its battery had been weak from the get-go. I think my car sat at the dealer for nearly a year before I purchased it - undriven and unstarted. Periodically, I have experienced hard to start symptoms, and one fail-to-start event.

      I took this as an opportunity to get a good battery from Interstate Batteries, and move away from the stock one. In my online search, I found the Interstate Battery offerings for the Charger were 900 CCA versus the stock battery's 730 CCA. I also chose the AGM model (MTX-49/H8).

      I went to the store to grab it, giving my stock battery as a core exchange, and upon returning home I realized that the new battery was actually larger (in length) than the stock battery. The metal battery bracket that was down below the negative terminal was too large to secure this Interstate Battery. I needed a shorter bracket. It was also then that I pulled the battery back out and saw there were two positions for the mounting bolt, to support two battery sizes. So, then I went searching online, as I was a little confused.

      There are two battery brackets for Chargers - one for smaller, low CCA batteries and one for larger, high CCA batteries. Our Hellcats shipped with the bracket for the low CCA battery only. You need this other part in order to install and secure a high CCA battery:

      Part Number 05112059AB (They call it the 800 amp battery bracket)

      Or you need to be prepared to cut down the thick metal bracket that shipped with your car.

      I included some pictures of what I am talking about. I don't have pictures of my original stock battery installed as I did not expect to run into trouble like this when changing a (simple) battery.

      Consider this as a Public Service Announcement - I suggest buying the short "800 amp battery bracket" before you get stuck in a situation needing it, and not having it. Steve White Parts shipped me one for $16.29.
      Battery Bracket - Mopar (5112059AB) | Steve White Parts
      While you can (somewhat) secure the battery with just the fabric side strap (like I did for a week), knowing all this ahead of time, you can have the bracket handy for the future day when you may need it. You can even carry it with you in the trunk, in one of those little pockets in the spare tire area.

      Lastly, given that FCA put two mounting hole locations in the battery tray, it would seem that this shorter bracket is actually "universal" and can work with both battery sizes. It's a much smarter choice, and I think FCA should have shipped all the Chargers with this alternate bracket in the first place. I am unaware if Challengers have all these same parts or issues - maybe another forum member can check/confirm.

      Now back to my regularly scheduled burnouts... :)

       
    1. · Registered
      Charger SRT 392
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      406 Posts
      I’d like to hear more about the bracket and AGM.

      ** Charger Hellcats/392/5.7/V6s not for Challengers.
      You buy this bracket and it allows you to run the H8 battery instead of the standard H7. Essentially just gives you more available power. 900 vs 850 CCA, 95 vs 80 Ah @ 20 Hr, 160 vs 140 RC @ 25 Amp. It's a PITA to get it in but it fits tightly.
       
    1. · Registered
      Charger SRT Hellcat
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      1,559 Posts
      I attached an image of the battery, I couldn't find an expiration date on it anywhere. I'll have it tested or just drop a better one in regardless, the cells could be degraded. I bought it used about 6-7 months ago from a dodge dealer out here in Texas, the car was shipped over from California. As far as mods, I have yet to do anything to it personally, I got under the dash last night to check the wiring and found a StarGard GPS to the OBD but so far that's it. The car is bone stock from front to back as far as I know. I did have the gas build up issue for the power steering a little while back but that's only happened once.
      If there is no date on the top or sides, then obviously no way to know the age. You can see of it will pass a load test, but still don't like the voltage changing on turns.

      If you replace the battery, consider an AGM H7. The H7 is the Police Version with a longer case and more CCA and capacity. Here is the P/N for the Police Hold Down Bracket you'll need if you go that way.

      2006-2021 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts
       
    2. · Registered
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      28 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #10 ·
      If there is no date on the top or sides, then obviously no way to know the age. You can see of it will pass a load test, but still don't like the voltage changing on turns.

      If you replace the battery, consider an AGM H7. The H7 is the Police Version with a longer case and more CCA and capacity. Here is the P/N for the Police Hold Down Bracket you'll need if you go that way.

      2006-2021 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts
      I know it's late but I wanted to post before I forgot. On the drive to work tonight I was able to catch the voltage while driving and right before all the electronics go out the battery voltage is reading an overcharge. It was cutting out at 15.9 most the time but I got it on video and seen it go up to 16.4 ... could the alternator regulator be going out or is everything controlled though the PCM on these cars?
       
    3. · Registered
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      28 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #16 ·
      If there is no date on the top or sides, then obviously no way to know the age. You can see of it will pass a load test, but still don't like the voltage changing on turns.

      If you replace the battery, consider an AGM H7. The H7 is the Police Version with a longer case and more CCA and capacity. Here is the P/N for the Police Hold Down Bracket you'll need if you go that way.

      2006-2021 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts
      I did some troubleshooting before I go off to bed, but I pulled the battery and it's not dated, it is sloshing on the inside, I've never heard that before. But the bracket you linked is already installed however the hose I'm holding in the picture wasn't plugged in to the battery and I noticed there is a small hole on the positive side of the battery, should those be connected?
       

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    1. · Registered
      Charger SRT Hellcat
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      1,559 Posts
      Yes, they tested the battery on both service visits all good. This is what worries me. I think I have an electrical issue unrelated to the battery. They scanned for codes but they say the car did not report any codes which I do not understand??
      Specifically, what battery tests were performed? Does it say on your RO?

      Your HC is the same age as mine. At 40 months, it would still crank the car fine, but it would not run the After Run Cooler on the Performance Pages. The Battery Status on that page Failed and stayed Orange instead of going Green.

      I replaced the factory battery with an a H8 AGM Battery from Autozone and voila, all is back.
      Duralast Platinum AGM Battery H8-AGM Group Size 49 900 CCA (autozone.com)

      Your battery is coming up on 4 years old. Suggest replacing it like it did.

      If you go with the H8, you'll need this Bracket to accomodate the longer case:

      2006-2022 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts

      BTW, these cars have a Battery Sensor on the Negative Terminal to monitor the Amperage Capacity of the battery all the time. There is a 3-Wire Connector to the Sensor to the car. This Sensor also have a 5 Amp Fuse (F35) in the back Fuse Box next to the Battery.

      I have seen many batteries good one day and not start the car the next with no reason or explanation... they just quit. Batteries either work or not, thus the reason for proper battery testing techniques so as not to guess or throw new batteries at a problem. As someone in this thread already said... just periodically starting the car is NOT a proper test of any of the car systems..

      Not only is a proper battery load test needed, a proper starter draw test is needed followed by a Charging System Output Test. So far, have not seen any info on these really important tests.

      If it helps, attached is a proper test procedure. You can't check the electrolyte levels on these batteries, but the rest of the procedures are valid.

      Best!
       

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    2. · Registered
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      Discussion Starter · #7 ·
      Specifically, what battery tests were performed? Does it say on your RO?

      Your HC is the same age as mine. At 40 months, it would still crank the car fine, but it would not run the After Run Cooler on the Performance Pages. The Battery Status on that page Failed and stayed Orange instead of going Green.

      I replaced the factory battery with an a H8 AGM Battery from Autozone and voila, all is back.
      Duralast Platinum AGM Battery H8-AGM Group Size 49 900 CCA (autozone.com)

      Your battery is coming up on 4 years old. Suggest replacing it like it did.

      If you go with the H8, you'll need this Bracket to accomodate the longer case:

      2006-2022 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts
      Car was built in November of 19, dealer took delivery in January of 20. We took delivery on April 2nd, 2020. So the battery is now going on three years. The battery in our Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT lasted for 8 years what the heck?
       
    1. · Registered
      Charger SRT Hellcat
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      1,559 Posts
      2016 MY with original battery. Planning on doing replacent myself. Now is there any specific procedure to follow to minimize any collateral issues with power loss and things needing to be reset or dissappearing? Last thing I want to do is go to a dealer.
      You can jumper the batt terminals under the hood and/or take pics of all your Settings Screens.

      Duralast Platinum AGM Battery H8-AGM Group Size 49 900 CCA (autozone.com)

      2006-2022 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts
      2006-2022 Mopar part # 5112059AB - Battery Bracket
      www.stevewhiteparts.com
      www.stevewhiteparts.com

      The H8 is made for these cars.
       
    1. · Registered
      Charger SRT Hellcat
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      1,559 Posts
      Hello, I just noticed yesterday that after not driving my car ( 2019 challenger hellcat redeye widebody) for 3 days that the brake pedal felt hard as a rock and too stif to press it so I couldn’t turn the car on and I was afraid to press to hard on the pedal itself. After a few try’s I got it to start and the pedal went back to normal feel and the brakes were working very well. I just to run a few errands and parked it for about 90 mins, when I went back to start the car, everything was fine and no hard brake pedal whatsoever. I just want to know your opinion on this. The car only has around 25 thousand kilometers only (16k miles). I’ve read that it’s normal and if it happens again I could just remote start it. What do you think I should do?
      I could always get it to the dealer on its next service to check it out.

      many thanks
      None of this is a joke.... I did everything written here. My first indication was the After Run Cooler Function would not work and had a failed Battery Status on the After Run Cooler Page.

      You won't believe this until you do it, but it's your weak battery. Go to the Performance Pages and bring up the After Run Cooler page and am willing to bet the Battery Status won't pass. This means your battery does NOT have adequate Amperage Capacity to support all car functions

      HCs have a special/unique Booster One-Way Check Valve that apparently requires adequate battery voltage and current to function properly. Oh, by the way, Dealers don't know about this fact.... I had to tell my service manager who immediately started scratching his head. I wanted him to replace my booster because of this issue. Gladly, it is not a booster issue.

      My '19 did the exact same thing @ 3.5 years factory battery age.

      I installed this battery. I wanted the Police H8 Battery due to larger Amp Capacity & internal battery design.


      and I had already purchased this bracket for the H8: 2006-2022 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts

      When you replace the battery, remember that the negative terminal is the first off/disconnected from the battery and the last terminal connected. Also, after replacing the battery, cycle the Blue 5 Amp F35 Fuse in the back Fuse Box to reset/cycle the Battery Sensor on the Negative Battery Cable Connector shown. The HC PCM has the H8 Battery Amperage Profile in Memory and cycling the F35 Fuse seems to force the PCM to see the new battery profile much quicker.

       
    2. · Registered
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      58 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #26 ·
      None of this is a joke.... I did everything written here. My first indication was the After Run Cooler Function would not work and had a failed Battery Status on the After Run Cooler Page.

      You won't believe this until you do it, but it's your weak battery. Go to the Performance Pages and bring up the After Run Cooler page and am willing to bet the Battery Status won't pass. This means your battery does NOT have adequate Amperage Capacity to support all car functions

      HCs have a special/unique Booster One-Way Check Valve that apparently requires adequate battery voltage and current to function properly. Oh, by the way, Dealers don't know about this fact.... I had to tell my service manager who immediately started scratching his head. I wanted him to replace my booster because of this issue. Gladly, it is not a booster issue.

      My '19 did the exact same thing @ 3.5 years factory battery age.

      I installed this battery. I wanted the Police H8 Battery due to larger Amp Capacity & internal battery design.


      and I had already purchased this bracket for the H8: 2006-2022 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts

      When you replace the battery, remember that the negative terminal is the first off/disconnected from the battery and the last terminal connected. Also, after replacing the battery, cycle the Blue 5 Amp F35 Fuse in the back Fuse Box to reset/cycle the Battery Sensor on the Negative Battery Cable Connector shown. The HC PCM has the H8 Battery Amperage Profile in Memory and cycling the F35 Fuse seems to force the PCM to see the new battery profile much quicker.

      View attachment 612226
      Thank you for taking the time to write what your experience was, and for providing a solution for it.
      I’ll check the battery status in race cooldown mode when I drive the car by today or tomorrow, if the battery status has the green ✅ it means it’s Working properly. hopefully 🤞
       
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