SRT Hellcat Forum banner

161 - 180 of 204 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
9EEEE418-FCED-4341-9B12-9F30F7F47AD3.jpeg
Mines on :)
Be at the track in the morning
Pro packaging and presentation
Now this is a piece of art worth every penny. Fit PERFECT in my 2016 M6 Challenger HC. Installation in less then an hour.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
950 Posts
Well I got my DIRS in today, and that is where the good news ends. After spending 3 hours trying to get part 1 and part 2 lined up together I gave up. Part 1 went on very well. Had zero issues. After installing part 2's crossmember bolts I noticed that the hole for the last main bolt didn't line up with part one. Part 2 is too far to the left and too low. So after talking with P4D, I filed off the weld to my subframe since he thought it was a bit too much weld in an effort to give the 2nd part a more flat and even surface. That seemed to help a bit, but no matter what I do the part 2 doesn't have enough movement left to right to line up the parts. Specifically part 2 is too far to the left side and while there is movement, all I can move is more to the left making the alignment of the 2 pieces for the bolt even farther off.

At this point I'm going to have a second set of eyes take a look at it. Unfortunately my mechanic I go to is backed up for quite awhile, so I have to wait. I think there is something different about my car that its tolerances aren't the same as others that have been tested. Or something is wrong with my DIRS, which is CNC'd so I don't see how that is very likely. Just sucks I drew the short end of the stick. I'm hoping I did something stupid and that's why it doesn't fit. I even took off the rubber isolator and that helped a bit, but not enough.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know

Here is a pic, hope it helps show how the holes are off left to right. Pushed the 2nd piece as far as it can go to the right to match part 1. Won't go any farther.

 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
478 Posts
I'd like to try one of the new braces, but I'm sure mine would be problematic as well. I have the standard brace and it wouldn't fit, I had to machine the holes in the brace, so they would align with my upper cross member holes. Although mine were off front to back, not side to side.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
478 Posts
Well I got my DIRS in today, and that is where the good news ends. After spending 3 hours trying to get part 1 and part 2 lined up together I gave up. Part 1 went on very well. Had zero issues. After installing part 2's crossmember bolts I noticed that the hole for the last main bolt didn't line up with part one. Part 2 is too far to the left and too low. So after talking with P4D, I filed off the weld to my subframe since he thought it was a bit too much weld in an effort to give the 2nd part a more flat and even surface. That seemed to help a bit, but no matter what I do the part 2 doesn't have enough movement left to right to line up the parts. Specifically part 2 is too far to the left side and while there is movement, all I can move is more to the left making the alignment of the 2 pieces for the bolt even farther off.

At this point I'm going to have a second set of eyes take a look at it. Unfortunately my mechanic I go to is backed up for quite awhile, so I have to wait. I think there is something different about my car that its tolerances aren't the same as others that have been tested. Or something is wrong with my DIRS, which is CNC'd so I don't see how that is very likely. Just sucks I drew the short end of the stick. I'm hoping I did something stupid and that's why it doesn't fit. I even took off the rubber isolator and that helped a bit, but not enough.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know

Here is a pic, hope it helps show how the holes are off left to right. Pushed the 2nd piece as far as it can go to the right to match part 1. Won't go any farther.

Did you have the car jacked up, or on ramps when you were working on it?
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
950 Posts
Okay I finally got it mounted. Per anothers advice on FB, I did the last bit of the instructions backwards. So instead of mounting the subframe bolts first, I instead lined up and put in the bigger bolt that connects from the first to the second part. Once that was threaded in a bit, I then threaded the subframe bolts, snug them all up, then torqued them to spec. I also per P4D's advice left out the 1/16th rubber isolator in the 2nd part to give myself as much room as possible. I was told it won't hurt anything leaving that out.

So here is my picture of triumph

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
I had a bit of the same issue at first on installation, it comes from how the diff is settled in on the factory rubber mounts. Get the big bolt started, install the passenger side bolt, the one with the slotted mounting hole, then tighten up the center bolt some and use a long #2 Phillips screw driver up In the drivers side hole to pry it over to align it and snug the right bolt down to hold it in place so you can start the left bolt, get them both snugged down, tighten center bolt until it's pulled in, tighten the frame bolts then torque down the center bolt then torque the mounting bolts. Remember the diff is rubber mounted and moves around, hence the new design rubber center mount. It will line up just doesn’t fall in place, the taper on the large center bolt is there to help get it started, it may take a tad of force to get it started, I doubt it will start with fingers alone, mine didn’t.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
950 Posts
Did you have the car jacked up, or on ramps when you were working on it?
Yes I had the car on race ramps for the install. I lowered it back on the ground to double check to see if my alignment changed on level ground. It didn't so put it back up on the ramps, did put the bigger bolt in first to line it up, then I lined up the subframe bolts and it worked! I also had to file a subframe weld down a bit to make the 2nd part of the brace sit as evenly as possible and I left out the rubber isolator to give me that extra 1/16th that I needed. I wish my car wasn't one of the harder ones to do, but this just goes to show you that not all the cars will line up exactly the same and some will require more in depth attention.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
478 Posts
Glad you got it in.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
950 Posts
I had a bit of the same issue at first on installation, it comes from how the diff is settled in on the factory rubber mounts. Get the big bolt started, install the passenger side bolt, the one with the slotted mounting hole, then tighten up the center bolt some and use a long #2 Phillips screw driver up In the drivers side hole to pry it over to align it and snug the left bolt down to hold it in place so you can start the left bolt, get them both snugged down, tighten center bolt until it's pulled in, tighten the frame bolts then torque down the center bolt then torque the mounting bolts. Remember the diff is rubber mounted and moves around, hence the new design rubber center mount. It will line up just doesn’t fall in place, the taper on the large center bolt is there to help get it started, it may take a tad of force to get it started, I doubt it will start with fingers alone, mine didn’t.
That's almost word for word exactly what I did. Except instead of a screwdriver I used a hammer and a block of wood to nudge it over to the last hole, lol. Didn't seem to take much nudging thankfully. Hopefully once this diff is on there for a bit it will be easier to put back on if I ever take it off, since it's used to being in that spot.

I had a mechanic put on my first brace in my 15' HC. I decided I was smart enough after looking at the instructions and videos to do it myself. What I didn't realize was that there would be tolerances between cars and you might have to rethink how it could be mounted in order to fit.

I was very careful with the bolts, didn't want to crossthread them. They all felt like they went in fine. Not too much resistant like you feel when you are crossthreading.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
437 Posts
That's almost word for word exactly what I did. Except instead of a screwdriver I used a hammer and a block of wood to nudge it over to the last hole, lol. Didn't seem to take much nudging thankfully. Hopefully once this diff is on there for a bit it will be easier to put back on if I ever take it off, since it's used to being in that spot.

I had a mechanic put on my first brace in my 15' HC. I decided I was smart enough after looking at the instructions and videos to do it myself. What I didn't realize was that there would be tolerances between cars and you might have to rethink how it could be mounted in order to fit.

I was very careful with the bolts, didn't want to crossthread them. They all felt like they went in fine. Not too much resistant like you feel when you are crossthreading.
Max, glad to hear it finally went in. Sorry it initially gave some problem. Your post will definitely help people down the road, maybe me. Waiting on mine to ship. That’s what this whole gig is all about everyone sharing what works and doesn’t , and helping each other out. I think my install should go easier now I know the tick to get alignment.
 

·
Bone Stock
Challenger SRT Demon
Joined
·
2,618 Posts
Well I got my DIRS in today, and that is where the good news ends. After spending 3 hours trying to get part 1 and part 2 lined up together I gave up. Part 1 went on very well. Had zero issues. After installing part 2's crossmember bolts I noticed that the hole for the last main bolt didn't line up with part one. Part 2 is too far to the left and too low. So after talking with P4D, I filed off the weld to my subframe since he thought it was a bit too much weld in an effort to give the 2nd part a more flat and even surface. That seemed to help a bit, but no matter what I do the part 2 doesn't have enough movement left to right to line up the parts. Specifically part 2 is too far to the left side and while there is movement, all I can move is more to the left making the alignment of the 2 pieces for the bolt even farther off.

At this point I'm going to have a second set of eyes take a look at it. Unfortunately my mechanic I go to is backed up for quite awhile, so I have to wait. I think there is something different about my car that its tolerances aren't the same as others that have been tested. Or something is wrong with my DIRS, which is CNC'd so I don't see how that is very likely. Just sucks I drew the short end of the stick. I'm hoping I did something stupid and that's why it doesn't fit. I even took off the rubber isolator and that helped a bit, but not enough.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know

Here is a pic, hope it helps show how the holes are off left to right. Pushed the 2nd piece as far as it can go to the right to match part 1. Won't go any farther.

Kris, we talked it sounds like our discussion got you into a good place to install and it got completed last night. For some reason the little bit of extra weld on the cross-member caused some misalignment.

For those installing this in the future, we made the DIRS to exacting tolerances, much tighter than the crossmember. Now that these are going out to the market, you may need to loosen the top diff mounting bolts or slightly jack up the front of the diff to get alignment. Also make sure Pt 1 is aligned L-R if things don't kine up. If you run into any issues, ping me like Kris did.

upload_2019-4-13_6-29-16.png
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
5 Posts
Hey guys I have a brace ordered as well, does the instruction manual provide TQ specs? If it does not can someone let me know what they are?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,730 Posts
Hey guys I have a brace ordered as well, does the instruction manual provide TQ specs? If it does not can someone let me know what they are?
Look at the pictures of unboxing I posted, there’s pictures of the instructions there with everything you want to know. I suggest read my installation post also it will help with any difficulties you may run into
Testing mine at the track today
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
437 Posts
Between 16gomango great installation pics, maxcarnage initial alignment Issue corrected, PD fit and finish & with what looks like straight forward installation I think all future installations will go forward more smoothly. Now let the testing begin can’t wait to get mine and test pilot it.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
928 Posts
By leaving out the rubber isolator, while it may not hurt anything, are you getting the full R&D and engineering benefits of this new and more expensive brace?
I mean by leaving anything out, should one have just bought the 2nd performance brace?
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
437 Posts
Common sense tells me we are about to find out very shortly as these are just starting to find their way into main stream. Not to long ago promissing beta testing proved reliable data, that is why I jumped in. Given the significant damage that can result from one of the weak links I want the best available. Especially on Demon, RE, &, Moded. I think if nobody tried new products we would all be in Fred Flinstone Cats. Given the previous platform results And heavy r&d on the newest I’ll go with the newer. Results to follow soon from others, and myself. Stay tuned,stay safe.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
950 Posts
Kris, we talked it sounds like our discussion got you into a good place to install and it got completed last night. For some reason the little bit of extra weld on the cross-member caused some misalignment.

For those installing this in the future, we made the DIRS to exacting tolerances, much tighter than the crossmember. Now that these are going out to the market, you may need to loosen the top diff mounting bolts or slightly jack up the front of the diff to get alignment. Also make sure Pt 1 is aligned L-R if things don't kine up. If you run into any issues, ping me like Kris did.

View attachment 512343
Yes I posted that same picture here, that I finally got it installed. Thanks very much for your help, excellent customer service. I was surprised to get a hold of you considering the time zone difference. I am hoping that by posting here and on FB, I can help others (like you and others helped me) get their DIRS on with minimal difficulty.

My personal opinion, follow the instructions first and if that doesn't get it installed, read some tips on here like I have done.

1. Check your subframe weld (between the 2 PEMs), and file off some if it looks like your part#2 of the DIRS is not sitting flush up against the subframe.

2. When lining up the main bolt that goes threw into the part#1&2 keep the top 2 subframe bolts loose so you can shift it left to right and get it centered.

3. If step 2 doesn't work, like it didn't for me (couldn't get part#2 to shift over far enough for the center hole to line up). I would suggest taking part#2 back off, and instead do the instructions backwards. So first line up the main bolt with part 1&2 and thread it in a bit. Then put the subframe bolts in, first the non-slotted bolt, followed by the slotted bolt. Then torque to spec.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
950 Posts
By leaving out the rubber isolator, while it may not hurt anything, are you getting the full R&D and engineering benefits of this new and more expensive brace?
I mean by leaving anything out, should one have just bought the 2nd performance brace?
It's just a 1/16th isolator that goes between the 2nd part and the subframe. I doubt it effects performance at all. Given its name isolator, I'm guessing it might help a bit with noise (if there is any) so it's not metal on metal contact. Or help to not rub off the paint on the subframe and top part of the brace, to help keep rust off. I had to file down part of the weld exposing some metal on my subframe that the brace covers (so yo u can't see it). Now that I am an expert on this lol, I may consider taking part 2 back off, putting a bit of protecting seal on the exposed metal on my subframe, then seeing if I can squeeze in the 1/16th rubber isolator.

For me the biggest step was getting the part on and NOT cross threading the main bolt from part 2 into part 1 so leaving out the isolator as Mo-par! suggested was the best alternative.

There is a big difference between the other braces and this DIRS. The DIRS has an OEM bushing in it meant to help absorb stress and the other braces do not. Leaving the stress to go into the subframe, brace or diff more. In my opinion the DIRS from the looks of it, it will even out the stress much more making sure the entire section takes any drive train shock and not just part of it. Well made piece, I'd get it hands down over the regular and standard brace any day.
 
161 - 180 of 204 Posts
Top