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Wow I live up here in Canada and the cars only really driven in summer on nice days it has a 180 stat in it and it still runs hot so you might be correct for people winter daily driving these cars but for most here I don’t think it’s detrimental to their cars.
 

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Wow I live up here in Canada and the cars only really driven in summer on nice days it has a 180 stat in it and it still runs hot so you might be correct for people winter daily driving these cars but for most here I don’t think it’s detrimental to their cars.
It’s not. If I lived in a cold climate I would personally keep the stock thermostat, but some people think the excessive “ring wear” is detrimental when vehicles have gone 200k miles without issues but hey what do I know?
 

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That’s great! I will be sure to tell the owner of my last vehicle that his truck is on it’s last leg since it’s going on 300k miles and yet to have any blow by or oil burning problems.

Simply put a cooler thermostat will help with detonation especially a supercharged engine in very hot climates, ie Texas which is where I live. Since most people don’t like keeping a vehicle stock, a lower tstat will allow for a slight advance of timing to the vehicle or no timing added for extra protection from detonation.

A great idea is to do what you want to your vehicles and I will do the same with mine. Abnormally long oil changes will affect the engine more than a lower thermostat.
I live in Florida, so I understand the want for a cooler motor. Especially in awful bumper to bumper traffic.
And you're correct about prolonged oil changes create more damage than a thermostat. And yes, I think it does fall on user preference. And like my first post in this thread, its definitely not necessary.

Now, this thread started as to asking in regards to a stock motor. The ecu from the factory is fat and retarded. The factory tune will only allow for so much advance. Not enough to put itself in a knock knock, who's there?, Rod situation. And the mixture is rich enough to ensure its not a huge concern on a completely stock car.

You can asking a 100 different tuners, and each will provide you with a different answer and a different strategy to tackling knock and pre-detonation. From my personal experience, intake charge temps and spark plugs are your biggest targets. I've had knock at 180°f with e85 and I've ran vehicles with huge advances on 93 at 220°f with no knock. Most of the time on a dyno, you're lucky to get a run under 205°f.

Changing the coolant temp to a lower range is not the magic bullet. Unless........... you're running a liquid cooled intercooler without a separate tank. Then it's a huge factor. Like with the kenne bell blowers.

I would personally like to see data logged runs with both. But I'm sure that should be in a new thread of it's own.
 

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I live in Florida, so I understand the want for a cooler motor. Especially in awful bumper to bumper traffic.
And you're correct about prolonged oil changes create more damage than a thermostat. And yes, I think it does fall on user preference. And like my first post in this thread, its definitely not necessary.

Now, this thread started as to asking in regards to a stock motor. The ecu from the factory is fat and retarded. The factory tune will only allow for so much advance. Not enough to put itself in a knock knock, who's there?, Rod situation. And the mixture is rich enough to ensure its not a huge concern on a completely stock car.

You can asking a 100 different tuners, and each will provide you with a different answer and a different strategy to tackling knock and pre-detonation. From my personal experience, intake charge temps and spark plugs are your biggest targets. I've had knock at 180°f with e85 and I've ran vehicles with huge advances on 93 at 220°f with no knock. Most of the time on a dyno, you're lucky to get a run under 205°f.

Changing the coolant temp to a lower range is not the magic bullet. Unless........... you're running a liquid cooled intercooler without a separate tank. Then it's a huge factor. Like with the kenne bell blowers.

I would personally like to see data logged runs with both. But I'm sure that should be in a new thread of it's own.
Short response to this is if I was keeping my car stock, I would keep the stock thermostat. Since I’m nodding my car, I’m lowering the thermostat threshold temperature. Just short and simple. I agree with what you posted.
 

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Short response to this is if I was keeping my car stock, I would keep the stock thermostat. Since I’m nodding my car, I’m lowering the thermostat threshold temperature. Just short and simple. I agree with what you posted.
Side note from the topic. The killerchiller is a option you should look into. I'm considering adding it to my February shopping list.
 

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The stock Hellcat tune is actually very aggressive...that it is not is a false statement. In stock form many cars will be pulling timing. Fact that the stock tune pulls timing the hotter the motor is running as well. Why Speedy made this point

Whoever talked about improper block expansion and ring blow by...lol...20 deg F diff?...really? Read some more materials engineering books and keep in mind we dont have aluminum blocks. Your cool AM starts w/o plugging (if you even have 1) block heater in is putting more wear on your cylinders then a 20 deg F t stat...fact. you've been told a fib and are spreading it

Now with that said...anyone with a thermodynamics background can tell you heat is energy...and dumping it into the cooling system is dumping energy. It's not possible but running even hotter...230+ deg would give you more power IF you could also ensure your intake charge was as cold. But that isnt possible for numerous reason so the trade off has always been to run a lower tstat for more power.

Take a stock Hellcat to the dyno...get it hot...and run it. Now swap out the tstat to a 180 and change nothing and get it hot again..you will make more power and the computer will not need or try to pull as much timing

There are some truths on both sides of this...and some simply incorrect as well
 

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Funny story... I went to Bondurant and did the SRT Experience in a hot August day. 115F outside at its best. They were pounding on these cars on the track mercilessly, with AC on, and the cooling system just handled it like a boss.

Yeah I'm not changing my thermostat or anything else... just keep it well maintained stock and it'll handle everything just fine.
 

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Funny story... I went to Bondurant and did the SRT Experience in a hot August day. 115F outside at its best. They were pounding on these cars on the track mercilessly, with AC on, and the cooling system just handled it like a boss.

Yeah I'm not changing my thermostat or anything else... just keep it well maintained stock and it'll handle everything just fine.
Good for you!!!! No need to change the stat... changing the stat will only hurt the motor. Many here underestimate how well the cooling system works, the aluminum radiator, the oil cooler, the intercooler, the synthetic oil protection and lots more. Will NEVER touch mine either !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Also, in a worst case scenario, changing the stat could also void your warranty. You can always call the SRT Hotline and ask them.
 

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.0005 over .0003 is nothing lol. Would take 1,000,000 miles for there to be any difference at all if it could even be noticed then.

So since I put in ID1000 injectors and a 2.72 pulley my fuel consumption went up 10%. Guess that means my engine will wear out in 10,000 miles?

Some of you guys on this forum are characters with the things you concern yourself with.
which engine though?

I joke.
 

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And then, there is the proper Thermal Expansion of the whole block which does affect bearing clearances and all other clearances, in addition to piston ring wear.
 

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I would add one if spinning the supercharger faster than stock or modifying the tune for the radiator fans to come on sooner.

One of the reasons for the larger supercharger on the Demon/Redeye engine was to keep the screw speed down and heat.
 

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And then, there is the proper Thermal Expansion of the whole block which does affect bearing clearances and all other clearances, in addition to piston ring wear.
Yeah, boiling point is 212 for h2o, makes perfect sense. I think I'll swap back to the stock tstat until spring at least.

One of the reasons for the larger supercharger on the Demon/Redeye engine was to keep the screw speed down and heat.
Yep. Hair dyers are detrimental to horsepower... we all do it though.
 

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Yeah, boiling point is 212 for h2o, makes perfect sense. I think I'll swap back to the stock tstat until spring at least.
The 50/50 Antifreeze mix raises the BP 45 Degrees to ~ 265 Degrees AND the 21 PSI Pressure Cap raises the BP another 63 Degrees (3 Degrees for every 1 PSI). That means the actual BP is now north of 300 Degrees. Running Coolant Temps of 200 or 210 or 215 is NOTHING for these cars. Leave the factory stat alone... period!
 

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The 50/50 Antifreeze mix raises the BP 45 Degrees to ~ 265 Degrees AND the 21 PSI Pressure Cap raises the BP another 63 Degrees (3 Degrees for every 1 PSI). That means the actual BP is now north of 300 Degrees. Running Coolant Temps of 200 or 210 or 215 is NOTHING for these cars. Leave the factory stat alone... period!
The thermostat police.......
 

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The thermostat police.......
Some people are open, receptive and appreciative of the correct info; some are not. Let's not be condescending to those who try to help others with accurate facts that have decades of data to support a particular position and can be verified...

Best!
 

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The 50/50 Antifreeze mix raises the BP 45 Degrees to ~ 265 Degrees AND the 21 PSI Pressure Cap raises the BP another 63 Degrees (3 Degrees for every 1 PSI). That means the actual BP is now north of 300 Degrees. Running Coolant Temps of 200 or 210 or 215 is NOTHING for these cars. Leave the factory stat alone... period!
Raises the boiling point...but what about the specific heat?

Your are right...running temps of that level is not a big deal...but you WILL make more power at lower temps...period
 

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