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Discussion Starter #1
So got 2 runs in tonight and they went horribly.
First I totally forgot to pump the brakes before engaging the linelock (Hellcat Burnbox). No wonder I stalled the 1st attempt then drifted forward/sideways the 2nd.
Then after releasing the linelock, my traction control reactivated putting me in Street mode and I stalled at both green lights. This happened although I was in Track mode and the 2nd time I turned the TC totally off.
So those with the burnbox linelock, is this normal? Is the TC supposed to reengage on its own?
 

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Ok 2nd night at the track, figured out the linelock and traction issue... however...
DA 2400 avg... 3x mid 12's @ 123mph. Im disappointed to say the least. M6 2.85 and typical supporting mods. 93 tune. New 555RIIs 24psi, 22psi and finally 20psi. Getting out of the hole I think was my demise, idk. Anyone offer advice for next week?
I was full weight (gas tank too).
My trap was 127 in late June on orig 555Rs.
 

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The DA is killing you.... You definitely need M/T street R's for the track. Here in Phoenix the best DA is in January, February if we are lucky 1500. It's over 4000 now and I will lose 3 tenths and 4 to 5 MPH. I am getting 1.52 60' times. Had Mike @ OST DYNO give me some more timing from 1500 to 3500 to see if I could pick up 60' to be below 1.49, but track still has not open. DA is bad now so I don't think the 1.49 will make it on the 8th when we are supposed to open. I only have a tune on my car (A8) and have run [email protected] on 100 octane. Just get the tires to bite and you should get some good runs...
 

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Nittos Love to be heated and requires a huge burnout.
Also you can continue try 1 PSI lower at a time until 18psi and see if that helps.

I also agree try foot braking.

Went back reading
Your Hellcat is an M6?

Linda :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The DA is killing you.... You definitely need M/T street R's for the track. Here in Phoenix the best DA is in January, February if we are lucky 1500. It's over 4000 now and I will lose 3 tenths and 4 to 5 MPH. I am getting 1.52 60' times. Had Mike @ OST DYNO give me some more timing from 1500 to 3500 to see if I could pick up 60' to be below 1.49, but track still has not open. DA is bad now so I don't think the 1.49 will make it on the 8th when we are supposed to open. I only have a tune on my car (A8) and have run [email protected] on 100 octane. Just get the tires to bite and you should get some good runs...
Yeah considering my lack of experience, my 60' was 2.4 2.5 my R/Ts were .5 .7. DA wasnt great for sure but I didnt think it was 'that' bad. I was also running a paper cone filter while the oiled one dried.
Nittos Love to be heated and requires a huge burnout.
Also you can continue try 1 PSI lower at a time until 18psi and see if that helps.

I also agree try foot braking.

Went back reading
Your Hellcat is an M6?

Linda :)
M6 yes. My burnouts werent long at all honestly maybe 3-5 secs. Also these new RIIs just dont smoke like the orig 555Rs. 20 was the lowest I got, and truthfully they were wiggly going down range. (20x10.5 rims btw 305s)

But tires do seem to be the common denominator of my discussions. Trap speed is also a concern to a few.
 

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Yeah considering my lack of experience, my 60' was 2.4 2.5 my R/Ts were .5 .7. DA wasnt great for sure but I didnt think it was 'that' bad. I was also running a paper cone filter while the oiled one dried.

M6 yes. My burnouts werent long at all honestly maybe 3-5 secs. Also these new RIIs just dont smoke like the orig 555Rs. 20 was the lowest I got, and truthfully they were wiggly going down range. (20x10.5 rims btw 305s)

But tires do seem to be the common denominator of my discussions. Trap speed is also a concern to a few.

Hi. I have an automatic, but I used to race a 69 Chevelle that had a muncie 4 speed, and I tried every drag radial known to man, and it is about impossible. Most everyone who has a stick ar runs some type of stiff sidewall slick, which is what I ended up doing for a short while with my Chevelle. The reason it was a short while is that I grenaded the transmission the first time I set my two step at 5K.

It probably doesn't help that your car is lowered too.

Something always has to give somewhere. In in auto car, it's the converter that slips. In a manual, you need the tire to slip just a little (unless you have an adjustable race clutch, which you don't). I would for sure put a driveshaft in the car.

DA might be the difference in MPH, as someone noted, and you have a lot of wheel spin.

Your 60' time is the big problem, 2.4, 2.5. My stock auto in 5800 air ran a 1.75' 60 with drag radials on a mediocre prep track. But you have a stick car, and that's just an entirely different beast.

Like I said, I haven't raced a HC stick car, but I have raced a stick car a lot, and one thing is that you have to be holding the RPMs steady on launch. Is there a launch mode where you can set the rpms for your launch?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have launch control but never used it, everyone says its garbage and to not bother.
 

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Thanks. I think one of my runs had TC completely off. We dont get too many passes because the strip gets packed but I was surely in Track/Street setup both times. This Fri I plan to reduce a little weight, install a race filter and drop to 18 psi. Its really all I can do until I purchase my drag pack.
 

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Thanks. I think one of my runs had TC completely off. We dont get too many passes because the strip gets packed but I was surely in Track/Street setup both times. This Fri I plan to reduce a little weight, install a race filter and drop to 18 psi. Its really all I can do until I purchase my drag pack.
NP. My best ET to date is an 11.8 @ 122mph (1.9 60') and the DA wasn't exactly favourable - @moparjim can confirm that. My DRs were down below 15psi last time out (per the manufacturer) when I went 11.9 - there is no reason that the car shouldn't be able to blow the tires off with 650ft/lbs off idle once you get the car rolling. The dance between the clutch and gas pedals is going to be where you're going to find the 11s or better... obviously the power is there.

Your Traction Mode slot should read OFF when you try your car next. OFF is OFF-OFF - you'll know it. It dramatically changes the car when racing.
 
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Ok 2nd night at the track, figured out the linelock and traction issue... however...
DA 2400 avg... 3x mid 12's @ 123mph. Im disappointed to say the least. M6 2.85 and typical supporting mods. 93 tune. New 555RIIs 24psi, 22psi and finally 20psi. Getting out of the hole I think was my demise, idk. Anyone offer advice for next week?
I was full weight (gas tank too).
My trap was 127 in late June on orig 555Rs.
M6 Cat is no doubt a challenge to launch, it’s named correctly lol, a Challenger. 2.5 60’ is horrid especially on a prepped surface. On the street I do a 2.0-2.1 consistently but that has taken MUCH practice, 12.5 street 1/4’s is where I started as well so don’t be down on yourself on the times of these first outings, you’ll get there with practice. Yes, unfortunately tracks of late suck as far as getting allot of passes in and close enough together to be of any good to learn from the last pass and apply it a few minutes later. My favorite tire is the Nitto 315 NT05R, it’s a good tire both on the street and at the track until you get a drag pack which I suggest a 17” tire like the MT 315/50-17 Street R. The NT05R I run a 2.0 60’ with 11.4 1/4’s at about 132 on the street, 1.6 60’ 10.8 1/4’s at the track. On the 17” street R’s my best pass at the track is a 9.998 with a 1.39 60’ but consistent repeatable runs are around 10.5 with 1.5 60’s with them at the track. I don’t run them on the street as without heating them up their no better on the street then the NT05R in my experience at least. O, and I run in Street mode on and off the track, Occasionally Track mode at the track but never fully off. I find traction control to be of help as even with all kinds of suspension mods if I break the tires loose I’ll hop which is a axle CV killer along with other things. I’m not running stock ratio trans either which helps greatly vat the track launch wise. I run a 2.98 first 2.10 second Tranzilla but back in the day where I was still running my stock trans my best 60 ft’s happened slipping the clutch just right off the line. I don’t use launch control, on the final yellow light I bring the R’s up to about 1500 and let here go and just rotate the throttle to the floor over about a seconds time grab second and go from there. I don’t power shift usually except for an all out max effort run like the one that got me my one and only 9 second pass, it’s too hard on the driveline and one missed shift could cost you dearly. My suggestion? Get a Draggy or a Gtech SS Pro and find a place close to home where you can practice launches at the least and full 1/4 runs if you can get away with it. It’s the only way to master the M6 Challenger. BEST of luck to you!!
 

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I use the Tazer Burnbox because I found that the factory line lock was crap, I can get a good burnout and it always puts the car back in my custom setup. I do use the factory Launch Control and once I learned it I am consistently getting 1.62ish 60' and RT of .05 to .08. When bracket racing you have to have consistent 60' and RT's otherwise you will not be able to hit your dial and be competitive.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Im gonna try LC this wknd, got nothing to lose and I can see how MY car responds to it.
 

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Im gonna try LC this wknd, got nothing to lose and I can see how MY car responds to it.
Before going to the track practice enabling it in an empty parking lot.

Here's what I found worked best with my car to learn how to use it and find what launch RPM got me the best 60':
  • Set launch RPM at 1500 and work up until you find your 60' doesn't improve.
  • When ready to engage Launch Control first make sure you enable it AFTER you do your Burn Out, if you have the button on the center dash make sure the light is on and the dash shows its enabled.
  • Once you get lined up and the double bulb is lit, hold the brake and SLAP the gas pedal down. DO NOT EASE INTO IT, YOU HAVE TO SLAM IT DOWN otherwise it will not engage properly and push you thru the beams (Practice in the parking lot this is key).
  • If your Bracket Racing don't engage it until the First yellow comes on.
 

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Launch control on the M6 is useless. You can not start out floored in first gear, at least I can’t. Yea, 1500 rpm I find to be a good launching rpm but if I floored it right on clutch release I’d blow the tires off for sure, launch control is doing about that same thing having to have it floored to engage it.
 

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My apologies I should have read the details more, didn't realize he was a M6 car, I have no experience launching M6 so I do apologize.

-Kenny
 
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