That sucks

 

Yeap. Still digging on the hellcat though. Its kinda been a bit of a Unicorn for me.

 

Some smoke in the morning is normal, likely just condensation as you stated, however a burnt oil smell would indicate a more pressing issue. Obviously a quart every fill up is beyond the range of acceptable consumption, unless the dealer wants to pretend it’s a two stroke.

I’d recommend bringing it to another dealer. Likely a bad valve seal or piston ring, which would make sense with the poor performance you are noticing. The other item I’d be curious of is if there is a data logger which records revs and speed according to the days it was driven, which would give you the ability to see how the dealer treated the car, which would determine what your next steps are. What state are you in if you don’t mind me asking? I know that here in Texas, you have to cross a certain amount of days at a dealership to qualify for lemon law, which means you get a new car if they can’t get this one fixed up.

 

Mine was picked up with 3.5 miles and drank a 1/2 qt every 200 miles or so. It also smoked like crazy. In the spring when I took it out I had added the extra qt figuring that if it continued to use oil at least there would be more oil to use. At some point over 1200 miles I took it to the track and went back quite often. For some reason my car no longer smokes on start up and doesn't use nearly as much oil. Not sure why mine stopped. But I hope you get yours figured out soon.

 

Hello and thanks for the replies so far to both of ya.

I am in Nashville, TN. So, here it works like this :
1. 30 day cumulative with out the car
2, 3 trips in for the same issue with no repair / fix.

In both cases you must have purchased the car new which I did, as a never before registered car. The car does not have to have been purchased in TN, just has to have never been titled. The videos explain the oil issues. The issues with the stripes, which are minor, but still a issue, I touch on as well. As far as datalogging, the ERD data only stored like 30 seconds on a "event". Something major I think defines a event. I went through that on my Scat Pack. But, you have to either get a judge to request the ERD data, pay someone to pull it ( costly ), and / or give consent ( if not court ordered ) for it to be pulled. Again, I went through that on my Scat Pack. So, the only "data" I have is the performance menue that shows the top speed the car has gone; well, thats all I know about. I have since wiped that speed, but the guy or gal did get it to 90MPH. They drove it around 6 miles. They burned a few mils of tread off the tires. I had black tire soot all inside the fender well. I have not done any burnouts in the car and had gave it a pretty good wash before taking it in the day before. I mean, it did rain, but this was not from rain, it was from a tire.

To be honest though, I dont care so much about that as the way they must have shifted the trans. I , for the most part, double clutch. I do it to take it easy on things while they get broke in. I dont do it every single time, but most. When I dropped it off it shifted smooth as silk. It is notchy as hell now. Not to mention, I think its the same mechanice that said "its normal" on everything that was wrong with the Scat Pack. I mean, if it was all normal, FCA would not have had that 3rd party Vendor call me up to do a car swap. That swap never happend, but still I have letters and emails surrounding it.


So, sent a video along with a email to Mr Gorlier. He already has a Executive Referrals guy working with me. The guys name is Stander and he is very nice to speak with. I am just worried it'll be one of those deals where the shop guy douches out and says "its normal"' like it him that is paying for it ( its not, they get less for warranty work and I dont think they get paid for debug work if they dont nail it down). I imagine that the guy just doe snot want to pull the plugs of the valve covers due to the work hours in the book for it to investigate. I am sure he would find a bad seal or seals. At the same time, you do see a hint of blue smoke in the exhaust when you get it loading up. You'll see the black smoke from the gas and a bit of blue. I would say thats just part of the break in but its way to much oil burrning off ( found no leaks on my inspection )and I think the rings would have seated by now. It had around 800 miles when I got back from Texas where I picked the car up from. That lot still owes me floor mats, a red key fob, and the owners manual which they for some reason have a new excuse everytime I ask about it.


But on the oil, yeah if it still ran like it did the day I picked it up and did not smoke, I would be done and happy as hell. Something tells me its got something junky going on. Given the price of the car and what I plan to do with it, junky just aint gonna do it.


Merry Cold Expensive Holiday to all of ya!

 

Thanks MoparJim. I was thinking maybe I needed to get in it a bit and blow things around a bit. I tried a little but its been wet and cold. With the summer tires, just not real safe. Plus, I dont really think it will sort it. Who knows. Told the FCA guy we could touch base after the new year since I just wanted to have some fun with car, smoking or not. Maybe somehting will get cleared up then.

You sid a half quart every 200 or so. So, looking at the dip stick "safe area",the hash marks. That equals about a quart right? It seems to. I used the same gas lane at the station the last few times I have checkd and put the dipstcik / wire in facing the same way everytime. When I have topped it off I use Mobile 1. I have been marking what level the oil was before pouring it in. It seems to be about a quart will take it from the very tip of the dipstick to a hair over the "safe" hash. Thats what I am basing the consumption on.

 

Also, did you have to change your plugs out after the break in period? I dont know what else would be making it run rough like it is. I dont have any CEL lights or anything showing up.

 

Yes it was a bit more than a qt every 200 miles. I put 1.5qt in the first 400 miles then stored the car. When I changed the oil I put in 7qt and added a qt when it got to the full mark. I had also marked the stick to the new level. Now I use the 2017 stick so its easier. I'm not sure if adding oil or being more aggressive with it helped. But now I use maybe a qt in 1500 miles or more.
Now I have 4000miles the car runs strong and no I haven't changed my plugs.
I sure hope it gets figured out for you. Is there maybe another dealer you could go to.

 

Yeah, we have a few around here. It just I have to work to pay for this thing sooner or later 8). I'll try another dealer after the 1st of the year. Guess Ill justleave the black key and let them know I want to be present when its driven. I appreciate the replies.


These really are some cool cars. I love that feeling of being pushed back in the seat. Its a blast. Just want it right . but know that I have one, its all I really want. lol. Oh thats so weird.

 

I have a 2016 and definitely didn’t have any of those problems. My car has around 2900 miles and sits most of the time. It only gets used on weekends and since I live in the northeast it won’t be out for a few months. Sorry you’re having all those issues but I wonder if someone at the dealership beat the snot out of it for those first 300 miles. You said it wasn’t considered a demo? I would like to know how it got that much mileage then. I know at the dealership where I bought my car, I wasn’t even allowed to drive the car before I bought it and the salesman said they weren’t allowed to drive Hellcats either

 

Smoke on start up or smoke anytime is not ok or normal
I do not understand people saying this abnormal occurrence is normal

You need to install a catch can as fast as you can. They are not snake oil. They work
I was building and installing catch cams on ls1 cars 20 some odd years ago
The problem is the oil vapor in the crank case is being drawn into the intake

If you take a clean rag and run it into the intake track it will come out coated with oil
Not normal and not good
Oil being burned reduces octane ratings and causes major carbon build up in the combustion chambers
Which leads to hot spots which leads to detonation which leads to timing being reduced

Our brand new 34 miles srt 392 has the same issue
Oil puff on start ups. Once my billet tech catch can is in it's being installed asap


Hope this help you.


Steve-p

 

That sucks hope you got it figured out or just fixed

 

Yea
I got

That sucks hope you got it figured out or just fixed

myself a few different catch cans as options
I'll get it right

 

Yea
I got

myself a few different catch cans as options
I'll get it right

At the risk of coming off as an idiot, lol, what exactly IS a catch can? I'm used to carbed small block chevys!

 

My new 15 used 1 quart the first 1k, then another in subsequent 1.5k. Somewhere around 2.5k , it quit using oil. I'm at 6500 miles now. Do see an occasional puff of smoke on startup, but not often. No catch can. No new plugs. Car still runs like a bat out of hell.

 

Mine cleared up with a catch can
I bought two
One from billet tech. That took like 6-8 weeks to get though

I in the mean time bought a china mart one from flea bay
It actually looks better that the bt piece in my opinion

 

Mine cleared up with a catch can
I bought two

I am thinking mine should clear up to after I drive it through the doors in Auburn Hills.

 

MAYBE too late: but my '16 HC Charger at 22K miles in 13 months does not use any noticeable oil between changes. And I don't baby the car at all. Since you basically don't have anything to risk, make sure the engine/trans/diff is warmed up. Find a road out in the country preferable straight and at least 1/2 mile long where you can run the engine to red line and back in 1st and 2nd gear. Start off slowly advancing the revs up to 3,000 and then slowly back down, do it again up to 4,000, then repeat up to 5,000 and then redline. Don't wide open throttle it and don't dump the throttle. Up and down, up and down, get the engine HOT!. Heat cycles and the back pressure of the deceleration seats the piston rings. They won't seat unless they are HOT!. Auto - be careful that you apply REVs easily as the trans pump creates a lot of pressure - again don't dump the throttle - bring it down at the same rate you raised the RPM.s. Keep your performance pages on and track the oil temp, trans temp and water temp. Remember the rings won't seat unless the engine is HOT. After doing this repetitive cycle four/five times drive the car around until all temps are back to normal. Check your coolant and mark the overflow tank, after cooling down, check it again, it's might be normal to throw some coolant out because of the increased engine temps while doing the break-in. Others might say it's too late - but if the rings have never seated they just might. Be careful to check your oil with the car level, not nose down, nose up, or leaning. Try to check it parked in the same spot every time as you will get the best readings over time.
Be sure to put the best gas in the tank before doing this.

Hope you get it sorted out - bummer to have a new car and have to carry spare oil in the trunk. I carry a new quart just in case anyway.

Cheers.

 

that 300 miles on a new car would have bugged me,there are people who can screw up an anvil with rubber mallet.ive had 2 hellcats don't drag but don't baby and neither car used oil,i change oil at about 3,000-3500.

 

It's not a bypass of the PCV. it is a fluid separator. It separates the oil from the system so that it does not drown the intake and everything down stream.

 

Update:

Car still smokes and uses alot of oil.

 

 

My '16 had the same issue. Bought it used with 760 miles from Carmax. Some preacher traded it in. I guess he beat the hell out of it and didn't pray enough about it first.

 

Well, I am glad they ended up getting mine replaced. The 2019 has no issues I have noticed.

 

guess I am one of the lucky ones, have a 2016 with 37000 miles on it now and have never had a problem with anything yet.