[B1llbrad5ky]

Hi guys and gals. First time poster here.

I've got a 2016 challenger hellcat that I purchased already modified 2 years ago and had it retuned by a local/reputable performance shop. It's tuned on e85 and has multiple modifications to justify this fuel. Anyways, recently I've been having parasitic battery drain issues and I've already replaced the battery. About this time the active exhaust valve on my borla exhaust fell off the bracket and was throwing codes. I decided I'd delete the exhaust valves using zautomotives kit (hoping to help the battery drain issue) and that code went away but alas I'm still having battery drainage issues. Then a new code popped up about the intercooler water pump voltage out of spec. I researched that and cleaned the terminals thinking it might help and at first it didn't, but on the way to the shop after 20 miles my temps finally started to drop well below ambient (I've got the killer chiller system) so I thought, hey great maybe that'll fix my voltage issue. But the shop said they've still been having the issues and they have a slew of bcm codes, chassis codes etc. Does anyone have any ideas about what could be causing this problem? Both me and the shop are stumped and they are suggesting me to take it to the dealer to have them scan the codes more thoroughly. Thoughts?

Codes currently in the system:
B1208-11 - Anti Theft indicator short to ground
B16AB-15 Trunk lamp control circuit short to battery/open
B1751-15 - Couresty lamp control short to battery/open
B18BA-11 - Window control short to ground
B210C-16 - Battery voltage below threshold
B2199-16 - Battery voltage below threshold
B21DD-16 - System Voltage below threshold
B21DD-84 - System voltage below range
B21DD-85 - System voltage above range
B25B4-2A - Pawl switch stuck
B2860-15 - Door ambient light control short to battery/open
C121C-00 - Torque Request Signal denied
C2129-16- Battery voltage below threshold
C212A-16 - System Voltage below threshold
P0EA7 - Aux Cooling Performance
P1009-00 - Humidty Sensor Module
P1400 - Aftermarket Calibration
P1DD2-00 - Torque Request Signal from TCM denied
U0001-00 - CAN C Bus (stored)
U0121-00 - Lost communication with ABS module (stored)
U0140-00 - Lost communication with BCM
U0147-00 - Lost communication telematics gateway
U0415-00 - Implausible data rec'd from ABS

 

[baabootoo]

1. I skipped the battery drain thing. 2. Dealer all the way. 3. When did all this start?

 

[Tally Ho]

P0EA7 - Aux Cooling Performance

Start here. My 2017 Charger Hellcat had parasitic battery drain and the intercooler pump was staying hot. Battery would be stone cold dead in 3 days or less if not in use. New pump and issue gone.

 

[B1llbrad5ky]

1. I skipped the battery drain thing. 2. Dealer all the way. 3. When did all this start?

Yeah my concern with the dealer is their lack of help if the car is as modified as it is.
It started about a month ago

 

[B1llbrad5ky]

P0EA7 - Aux Cooling Performance

Start here. My 2017 Charger Hellcat had parasitic battery drain and the intercooler pump was staying hot. Battery would be stone cold dead in 3 days or less if not in use. New pump and issue gone.

Yeah I cleaned the terminals but no luck on the drainage. Next option is replace the pump I guess? Mine dies overnight, not 3 days...

 

[borden72]

Yeah I cleaned the terminals but no luck on the drainage. Next option is replace the pump I guess? Mine dies overnight, not 3 days...

Can you disconnect the connector to the pump over night to see if it helps?

 

[2ndAmend]

OK, if you are willing to go the distance, do this:

1. Put a meter in line with the battery and actually measure the current.
2. Start pulling fuses one at a time, see if the drain current changes. If there is no change, replace the fuse.

Try to find the big sucker.

(Edit: Corrected typo.)

 

[B1llbrad5ky]

Can you disconnect the connector to the pump over night to see if it helps?

I actually popped this fuse and even with this the battery drained.

 

[B1llbrad5ky]

OK, if you are willing to go the distance, do this:

1. Put a meter in line with the battery and actually measure the current.
2. Start pulling fuses one at a time, see if the drain current changes. If there is no change, replace the fuse.

Try to find the dig sucker.

I tried this but I couldn't get a good Amp reading and when I did get a reading it was pulling so many amps my alarm horn started going off and such. I was afraid it was pulling too many amps so I stopped to leave it to the pros.
What are the odds a bcm board is just bad?

 

[MbtexasStyle]

You might have a loose ground somewhere around the car. I don’t think it is the intercooler pump. My pump shorted out and would stay on. It would die overnight if I didn’t pull the fuse. It doesn’t throw that many codes either.

 

[Hemi Rocket]

B1 - 2ndamend gave you great advice. By doing what he suggested you will identify the circuit with the draw on it... you do it it one fuse at a time... you may have more that one. If you don't have a meter a simpler version is to use a test light. You can disconnect battery positive terminal and connect the test light to the battery post and the probe to the battery cable. If the light comes on you will know you have a draw on the battery then you pull fuses one at a time and check the light each time. This will locate the circuit with the draw... then you need to trace that circuit and find the issue. Very time consuming. Based on how quick it goes dead it would seem you have a significant draw some place. As for the code... holly crap... I've never seen that many at once.

 

[B1llbrad5ky]

You might have a loose ground somewhere around the car. I don’t think it is the intercooler pump. My pump shorted out and would stay on. It would die overnight if I didn’t pull the fuse. It doesn’t throw that many codes either.

The car only shows me one code but these codes are what the scan to found

 

[2ndAmend]

Most meters will do 10-20A max for a few sec. Are you seeing over 10A? If so, it sounds a lot more than parasitic.

I would not be surprised to see a high draw for the first few sec after connecting the bat. You might need to play a game where the bat is kept connected, add the meter one end to the terminal, other to the cable, then disconnect the bat cable from the terminal. PITA but it will avoid the surge.

 

[B1llbrad5ky]

Most meters will do 10-20A max for a few sec. Are you seeing over 10A? If so, it sounds a lot more than parasitic.

I would not be surprised to see a high draw for the first few sec after connecting the bat. You might need to play a game where the bat is kept connected, add the meter one end to the terminal, other to the cable, then disconnect the bat cable from the terminal. PITA but it will avoid the surge.

I see, ok I can try that. Thanks!

 

[baabootoo]

We'll figure it out one way or another!

 

[Dennis H]

I am following. Have you ever listened to ”The Automotive Diagnostic Podcast”? Amazing insight there. Not a Mopar source, but lots of info. This subject is gonna be a big part of our cars in the future. Waiting 20 minutes for modules to go to sleep…and on and on.

 

[2ndAmend]

I see, ok I can try that. Thanks!

Also, keep you meter reading short, 5-10 sec. They may be able to read 10-20A, but only for a very short time. Once you have the reading, put the cable back on the terminal or disconnect the meter.

 

[borden72]

2ndAmend has a good point about the amp capability. If you can, try to get a multimeter that's fused. Worse case, if the load is higher than the meter can handle, it'll blow the fuse internal to the meter vise damaging the meter.

 

[2ndAmend]

2ndAmend has a good point about the amp capability. If you can, try to get a multimeter that's fused. Worse case, if the load is higher than the meter can handle, it'll blow the fuse internal to the meter vise damaging the meter.

Yes, some meters are NOT fused for these high current measurements. This one is, but regardless, be careful to follow the duty cycle.

 

[B1llbrad5ky]

I've got the car back and scheduled service appt next Tuesday. Fingers crossed they can diagnose the issue. I'll keep at it until then.