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2017 HC Challenger. no tune----yet.
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First things first.
Full disclosure that I was inspired by forum member(shelbyguru) on this project. I'm doing exactly the same thing he did only taking it one step further by making a transition piece for bottom of stock airbox to the drivers side inner fender using a 3 d printer. shelbyguru's mod involved "blocking" off the lower intake of the airbox. I figure my way, combined with the additional front based ram air mod designed by shelbyguru, it will be truly 100% outside air being intaked by the throttle body. The driver side inner fender will have a louvre plate of sorts covering the hole so that rain water will not be kicked up into the transition piece which feeds air into the bottom of the air box though I highly doubt any measurable amount would anyway.
Flame suit on. pictures to follow.
 

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2017 HC Challenger. no tune----yet.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
pictures so far
 

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2017 HC Challenger. no tune----yet.
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Did you pull the grille to make that 3" hole?

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No sir. It was a bugger though to drill it from the engine side. My steady hand and a dremel did the job. I couldn't find an 12in extension with a receiver big enough to accommodate the chuck of my hole saw. Hole saw would have been the best way to go.
 

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No sir. It was a bugger though to drill it from the engine side. My steady hand and a dremel did the job. I couldn't find an 12in extension with a receiver big enough to accommodate the chuck of my hole saw. Hole saw would have been the best way to go.
Wow so you dremeled that inlet hole. I'm not seeing a lot of room for the airbox hose to that hole you made behind the grille. Do you have any type of flange on the hose or is it just poked into the hole you made?

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2017 HC Challenger. no tune----yet.
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Flange.w/extension. You can see it painted black via an overhead shot in one of the pics.
 

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2017 HC Challenger. no tune----yet.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was originally going to use bolt/nut. I ended up using simple interference fit. I think I failed to mention I used a piece of tubing fit inside the spectre flange to create the extension that is protruding out into the grill side slighty. From there I was going to use garden gard grid to create a grill but decided against it. It looked hooky so I went with open tube and painted it black for a stealth look.
 

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I've already got the front emblem moved just need to be sure of this. Have you noticed lower inlet air temps?


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'll be testing once the weather improves here in the pacific northwest. If I get a spat of good weather ill test while driving it to work.

Shelbyguru claimed 37* IAT drop but I question that although he claimed thermocouples were used to verify.

I'm now installing Mopar hood pins. Say a prayer for me. LOL.
 

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I'll be testing once the weather improves here in the pacific northwest. If I get a spat of good weather ill test while driving it to work.

Shelbyguru claimed 37* IAT drop but I question that although he claimed thermocouples were used to verify.

I'm now installing Mopar hood pins. Say a prayer for me. LOL.
Lol measure 3 times drill once and start with a very small drill bit.

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Great Job! The 37 deg. F drop was at the inlet of the TB. (IAT not IAT displayed in the cluster). I measured at the headlight inlet, the new 3 inch inlet, in the air box BEFORE the filter and at the inlet of the TB. For future reference, I was able to use a hole saw with a combination of a normal 12" long 1/4" extension with a right angle drill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
SG,
On average while driving around town did you notice any IAT drop on the cluster? Same question again only using the query of driving at speed on the highway?

That said,

is the display on the main cluster and unconnect cluster mimic what the PCM sees? So if IAT is 105* that is what is actually at the sensor?
 

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The IAT the PCM uses (and displays) is the sensor on the driver's side of the Supercharger Lid (Cover) towards the rear of the engine. There are 4 of those Sensors in total on the engine and they read both Absolute Pressure (PSIa) and Temperature. With this MOD you will notice lower IATs at WOT. What that "exact" drop in IAT (at the sensor) is unknown (by me) at this time. My PCM is still locked and when I go that route (of unlocked and tune), I can log that sensor. I agree that actual hard reliable data IS the way to go. However, having air as close to ambient entering your engine is a great starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The IAT the PCM uses (and displays) is the sensor on the driver's side of the Supercharger Lid (Cover) towards the rear of the engine. There are 4 of those Sensors in total on the engine and they read both Absolute Pressure (PSIa) and Temperature. With this MOD you will notice lower IATs at WOT. What that "exact" drop in IAT (at the sensor) is unknown (by me) at this time. My PCM is still locked and when I go that route (of unlocked and tune), I can log that sensor. I agree that actual hard reliable data IS the way to go. However, having air as close to ambient entering your engine is a great starting point.
yes it is. mine is locked as well as I have the MOPAR extended warranty so no mods involving a tune for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
So far I haven't seen 37* iat drop. However I failed to take a baseline of readings before this mod.

That said after this all in $70 "worthless mod"

IAT Temps drop considerably faster than oem and also stay consistently lower longer.

Right now ambient temp is 49* and sunny. Average IAT is 65-71 and will creep to 112* in traffic. Hard pulls it will never go above 112-115*

IMO this is a well worth it "worthless mod" for the money because thus far improvements are factual.

I'll verify high ambient performance once Temps get into the 100s in summer.

I did notice if you block off the bottom of stock airbox that supercharger whine diminishes.
 
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