[Sub-lime SP]

Yep, and none of those dragpaks and drag cars have lowering springs on them. I built drag chassis for a living for about 10 years of my adult life. In addition, the entire rear geometry is configured for the specific wheel and tires, thus allowing efficient power delivery and weight transfer. Adding lowering springs changes the axle's angle, which is what wears out the axle boots on the IRS. You can of course reconfigure all your lower geometry to match the new springs, but that's like a $6,000 job that nobody who price shops lowering springs is ever going to pay.

And, just because drag cars sit low doesn't mean the shocks don't have a LOT of travel... as you can see it trying to stick out of the rear fender on the last image. Street cars are not drag cars, no matter how much folks try to pretend otherwise. Lowering springs makes Hellcats slower.

I totally agree, to do it right you need to decide whether you want to go straight or around corners. For the most part I think these cars from the factory such at both. These twist and flex under load like crazy, and that’s what causes stuff to fail. My cars were setup more for street/corners. There are no short cuts if you want it right. I gotta believe some under car go-pros on a stock car with DR on a prepped track would make your hair stand on end! Lol

 

[SickToo]

Yep, and none of those dragpaks and drag cars have lowering springs on them. I built drag chassis for a living for about 10 years of my adult life. In addition, the entire rear geometry is configured for the specific wheel and tires, thus allowing efficient power delivery and weight transfer. Adding lowering springs changes the axle's angle, which is what wears out the axle boots on the IRS. You can of course reconfigure all your lower geometry to match the new springs, but that's like a $6,000 job that nobody who price shops lowering springs is ever going to pay.

And, just because drag cars sit low doesn't mean the shocks don't have a LOT of travel... as you can see it trying to stick out of the rear fender on the last image. Street cars are not drag cars, no matter how much folks try to pretend otherwise. Lowering springs makes Hellcats slower.

No kiddin. A drag car has a 4 link that creates a ‘instant center’ when ya let go of the trans brake button. And tire under it. Why I keep saying frame it tub it.

The reason I suggested ‘coil overs’ is that his car will have more weight on the rear tires if he had adjustable perches/rear springs back there (won’t look like a stink bug anymore either)

Dude could at least install these in the back. It will hook better, not worse:

One could also call AFCO and have their sister company build them some extended travel soft rebound adjustable height struts for the front cha ching : )

 

[SickToo]

I totally agree, to do it right you need to decide whether you want to go straight or around corners. For the most part I think these cars from the factory such at both. These twist and flex under load like crazy, and that’s what causes stuff to fail. My cars were setup more for street/corners. There are no short cuts if you want it right. I gotta believe some under car go-pros on a stock car with DR on a prepped track would make your hair stand on end! Lol

Yep

Stop screwing around…

Frame it tub it

 

[Xylander]

No kiddin. A drag car has a 4 link that creates a ‘instant center’ when ya let go of the trans brake button. And tire under it. Why I keep saying frame it tub it.

One could also call AFCO and have their sister company build them some extended travel soft rebound adjustable height struts for the front cha ching : )

This is the last pure drag car I built for myself. I don't have any pics of the frame underneath, but everything was swapped out. Mustang has a unibody, so unless you make a promod chassis and heavily modify the body, you're not going to get a pro 4 link on that thing. I did just about everything else, K member, vertical linkages, coilovers, tubs, custom fab titanium IRS half shafts... all to fit wide slicks or a 335 under the stock-like rear fenders (they still had to be rolled out a bit). I'll be damned if everything didn't sit square though. Low 9s car. In the pic below, you can see how under neutral load, it squatted ever so slightly over the rear.

Hooked like a champ. Drove like shit. #dragcarlife

 

[SickToo]

Never said you could have yer cake and eat it too ha

I’m from the south west… where drag racing was invented : )

Besides… Around town my car rides/drives better with these than it did with the goodyears

*and when going to the mountains or desert we take the ole lady’s honda HRV

 

[GatoDiablo]

Anybody here in this thread has had their axle boot damaged after lowering? I ask because I have been reading (in this forum) many members complaining about damaged axle boots after lowering their car. I really would like to lower preferably on Mopar (less aggressive) however, I am still on the fence if to do it.

 

[Sub-lime SP]

I have never had an issue. Both on Eibach pro kit springs.

 

[Sub-lime SP]

Also have a charger wb with same springs, no problems.

 

[SickToo]

Mine is making all sorts of noises : )

It had a lil (r to d, d to r) clunk after doing diff lockout cradle lock out and a diff brace but now that the driveshaft is aluminum (and fat) I hear everything lol. Like it’s making noise on decel (downshifts in sport). Talked to Jessie and to Billy at Gforce today and Jessie said it is prolly ok, his is loud as f too lol. Mine is 28.25” ground to all 4 fender but my car has 3580 m/t on the back and they are tall so it’s pretty low. It has adjustable spring perches so prolly raise it up .5-1” until I can afford the renegades. $1700 ouch. No summit race this weekend oh well : )

 

[SickToo]

Oh I got sidetracked oops. Boots look fine. Car has been at this height for 2k miles now. Thing is, these cars come with a shit cv angle stock. 10 or 11°. Lower it and put slicks on it yeah, gonna wear the cv. One more reason I woulda cut everything behind trans out if I had half of the money most you guys have! Woulda done frame n cage n tub n 4 link n a real differential n some huge pro series mickies before they were discontinued

 

[Redeyedcatcharger]

View attachment 591195
This was fresh off the hoist eibach challenger springs

Car looks sick bro! How do find the ride quality on the eibachs? I just insralled on my redeye charger and the ride at higher speeds feels not good. Larger dips on hogway especially. Almost like the suspension is bottoming out? I dont wanna use the wrong words here i havent lowered a car in a while. Appreciate your info 🤟🏼

 

[SickToo]

What’s bottoming out?

What did you see with it in the air and loaded?

 

[Redeyedcatcharger]

Hey man

Not on here much just seen this now. Again i could be using the wrong wording butit feels like suspension almost runs out of travel or stroke. Mainly latger dips in roads at high speeds. It enters the dip and feels like it run iut of travel shooting the car back up abruptly.

dont know what u mean by what iv seen with car in the air loaded

 

[gnnut]

Hey man

Not on here much just seen this now. Again i could be using the wrong wording butit feels like suspension almost runs out of travel or stroke. Mainly latger dips in roads at high speeds. It enters the dip and feels like it run iut of travel shooting the car back up abruptly.

dont know what u mean by what iv seen with car in the air loaded

You did not "seen it" but you did "see it"!

 

[gnnut]

or you saw it here

 

[2ndgen]

Anybody here in this thread has had their axle boot damaged after lowering? I ask because I have been reading (in this forum) many members complaining about damaged axle boots after lowering their car. I really would like to lower preferably on Mopar (less aggressive) however, I am still on the fence if to do it.

There's an old thread on here somewhere that spanned several years of people attempting different solutions (including fabricating custom components) to prevent axle boots from breaking after lowering these cars. last I looked at it there had still been no definitive solution found--the geometry of the stock suspension simply makes the axle boots not durable once lowered because of the angles.

 

[Xylander]

There's an old thread on here somewhere that spanned several years of people attempting different solutions (including fabricating custom components) to prevent axle boots from breaking after lowering these cars. last I looked at it there had still been no definitive solution found--the geometry of the stock suspension simply makes the axle boots not durable once lowered because of the angles.

Well, the geometry is an issue, yes, but the fix on that is excessively expensive. Once you get into replacing the components (which are likely going to be custom or at the very least, adjustable premium parts), the cost on "fixing" the geometry to cater to a lowered car is actually more expensive than just replacing the half shafts periodically.

The prime reason why Hellcats in particular suffer from this has to do with the physical forces acting on the long wheel base when lowered, but they're compounded by the excessive weight of the vehicle. You can get away with this on a lowered JDM car that weighs 3,200lb or less... but a car that tips over 5,000lb when loaded with fuel and passengers is just an insurmountable amount of weight pressing down on those long widebody half shafts.

Thus, there really isn't a good solution to negate the damage to the axles and axle boots. It's either super expensive up front or expensive maintenance over time. Or, you could get lucky and never have a problem.

 

[Black WB2018]

Just want to explain my situation in case someone is reading up on this and finds this thread:
I lowered my wb challenger hc m6 with eibach pro kit and dss 1400 hp axles. I also installed a complete set of BMR on car adjustable everything for the rear. 4 arms per side. my shop which has a ton of drag racing experience, realigned everything to factory specs and said I had clearance issues with the axles boots at full squat and the angles were not good. I installed shorter sway bar links and they realigned everything to move the rear knuckles out away from the diff a small amount and then realigned the entire rear. Clearance issue was solved but now the car launched hard to the right. Under full squat the knuckles were rotating to much causing excessive angles on the axles(go pro underneath). They did another alignment but used a more drag race friendly setup adding camber to the rear and few other things. I believe stock is -1.2 to -1.8 degrees of camber or so. The shop moved it to -.5 to 0. the car launches straight and has no clearance issues and the the axles are much happier. They told me that factory alignment will definitely have issues with lowering springs on these cars and that they wouldn't let me drive my car away if i didn't have the fully adjustable rear end parts to properly align everything(which I already gave them to do all at once). I'm not a suspension guy. I'm just trying to relay what they told me.
Even those 100 dollar Eibach bushing kits are not going to do the trick. They get you to factory settings which are not good for lowered cars, still too much cv joint angle.
Get adjustable parts and dont go to pep boys for an alignment. Our cars need a shop that doesn't just printout oem specs and then try to match it. Tolerances are to broad and need to be fine tuned for each cars needs.

 

[NuJerzey_Hcat]

View attachment 592449

This is the only other pic I have, this was 300 miles and a few weeks later. 315/35r20

Hello,

What offset you got on the wheels ? Looks like they sit flush with the fenders, nice. Is it lowered as well ?.

 

[Geno]

View attachment 592449

This is the only other pic I have, this was 300 miles and a few weeks later. 315/35r20

Those wheels are sick. Can you tell me what brand offset etc? Thanks