3.09 Install Instructions
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It’s super easy you just drop the k member and remove the differential from the front. The axles snap in
If you don’t know how to drop the k member look up BMR instructions for a diff lockout kit
*which if I were you I would be installing at this time anyways. Flat rate springs and adjustable perches as well. Add adjustable camber link good to go : )
***I use soap stone to outline the k member mounts before I drop it cuz it hardly ever goes back to the original position
*****also you can save yourself some time by just removing the one bolt on either side that holds the brake line to the body and not removing the caliper like bmr says to
If you don’t know how to drop the k member look up BMR instructions for a diff lockout kit
*which if I were you I would be installing at this time anyways. Flat rate springs and adjustable perches as well. Add adjustable camber link good to go : )
***I use soap stone to outline the k member mounts before I drop it cuz it hardly ever goes back to the original position
*****also you can save yourself some time by just removing the one bolt on either side that holds the brake line to the body and not removing the caliper like bmr says to
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W
Can you send me the link please. I found a bunch of videos but most were not that good.
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333 Posts
I need to understand with the independent rear suspension, how to properly pull the axles without ripping boots or messing up bushings, etc. Also are there snap rings holding the axles in? I used to put axles all the time on my old mopars...but its a new ball game with me now. Plus I heard you need to drop the exhaust and where do you disconnect the driveshaft...at the diff housing? Thanks
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333 Posts
Have not been back there yet...when you say pop in and out on the axles, are there bolts holding them in at the end and you pull like a regular axle? any caliper removal or other parts? Do you disconnect the diff at the housing or does the driveshaft need to come out? Sorry for so many questions...just don't want to screw up.
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I’m sorry, but I saw this some time ago and don’t have the link. I might have actually viewed if from someone on this forum. Good luck but I don’t think it’s too complicated, you will be fine!
There are a couple tricks, be careful. If you are not you can tear a CV boot or nick a seal in the diff. Someone posted a doc or a link maybe 1.5-2 years ago, I might have the doc, I'll look. Don't try to do it alone.
I made a cradle and tack welded it to a floor jack, made it a lot easier.
I watched one vid, a guy did it alone, tore the CV boot.
I made a cradle and tack welded it to a floor jack, made it a lot easier.
I watched one vid, a guy did it alone, tore the CV boot.
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333 Posts
Yeah..agree...I have a buddy that will do it with me. Have a quick jack to get it up in the air. Just like having instructions beforehand.
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350 Posts
This is actually really smart. You buy the car with a 2.62. You spend 1100 bucks you buy the 3.09 they swap easy and then you have both for the same price. Well done 👍
There have been a lot of posts debating the 2.62 vs. 3.09. If you read them all you will notice that almost all who got the 3.09 OEM are very happy. On the other hand, many who did the swap are unsure. It is very possible the PCM (or whatever) has code specific to the OEM diff and swapping may not yield the happiness you expect.
I specifically bought the 2.62 after reading what Adrenaline Rush accomplished with his 2.62 non-RE HC.
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350 Posts
interesting observation. but was just informed below that there is no difference between the 2.62 and 3.09 tune per SickToo see below
I swapped my M6 from 3.70 to 3.90 and the speedo was unaffected, no noticeable irregularities except for lower gas mileage on the hgwy. But I would think the M6 would be less affected by software than the A8. I have brought up this subject a few times and no one seems to know if there is a difference, but I imagine a tune solves all issues!
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350 Posts
There you go , i’m no expert but there’s plenty of experts around here. There is no different tune for the 2.62
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