I suggest also looking into just revving it higher than stock and modifying nothing but the required bits to rev higher. Requires pistons, rods, maybe a crank, better rockers, pushrods, springs. New ECU. I suggest 2" long-tube headers.
8000 RPM or 8500. Street manners will be relatively stock, but the power will just keep climbing past 5000 RPM.
Then, having proven that, add a Whipple or Kenne Bell, or a Magnuson. Your torque will remain less outrageous, and your hp will climb. The Magnuson is rated to around 10,500 motor RPM on a stock pulley ratio set. Torque will still go up, but it will be less of a camel hump than sticking with a stock redline and adding stroke, which makes the torque peak even more dangerous to anything downstream from the motor.
Not all paths are merely exaggerating the existing power curve sans more RPM, but they are the most common, by far.
The beauty of a tune that relies on revs to keep going after the stocker runs into valve float territory is that it behaves pretty normally on the street.
Also, maximizing your bore, perhaps even doing cylinder liners, can minimize your stroke addition, which exacerbates this car's excess torque problems less, as well as opening up the combustion chambers for bigger valves.
But, get your rearend braced with a D4RS or such, and some more rigid bushings on the cradle that holds it in place.
Is this for the 1/4 mile or from a roll? FAR more torque stress is place on the driveline launching gooey slicks on tacky concrete than in rolling into throttle at 60mph.
There are plenty of people on here with plenty of experience doing the Whipple/tune/stroker-related route. I merely wanted to offer alternatives that don't make the driveline such a money pit.
8000 RPM or 8500. Street manners will be relatively stock, but the power will just keep climbing past 5000 RPM.
Then, having proven that, add a Whipple or Kenne Bell, or a Magnuson. Your torque will remain less outrageous, and your hp will climb. The Magnuson is rated to around 10,500 motor RPM on a stock pulley ratio set. Torque will still go up, but it will be less of a camel hump than sticking with a stock redline and adding stroke, which makes the torque peak even more dangerous to anything downstream from the motor.
Not all paths are merely exaggerating the existing power curve sans more RPM, but they are the most common, by far.
The beauty of a tune that relies on revs to keep going after the stocker runs into valve float territory is that it behaves pretty normally on the street.
Also, maximizing your bore, perhaps even doing cylinder liners, can minimize your stroke addition, which exacerbates this car's excess torque problems less, as well as opening up the combustion chambers for bigger valves.
But, get your rearend braced with a D4RS or such, and some more rigid bushings on the cradle that holds it in place.
Is this for the 1/4 mile or from a roll? FAR more torque stress is place on the driveline launching gooey slicks on tacky concrete than in rolling into throttle at 60mph.
There are plenty of people on here with plenty of experience doing the Whipple/tune/stroker-related route. I merely wanted to offer alternatives that don't make the driveline such a money pit.
