[ghorsepower]

I started my rear suspension work today. I watched @Speedy and his two videos and another by Kelleys Garage. That had me pretty confident I could get it done.

To start I got the car up on jack stands. Removed my track wheels and tires. Put my stock NT05s back up front and started in the rear.

First I marked the cradle mount points at 90 degree angles so I can reasonably get the cradle sitting back where it was when I dropped it. Thanks again to @Speedy for that great tip in his video. Then I pulled all the clips around where you need to so you can get access and move the plastic around. Then I pulled the brake line bolts to get some slack. Finally I dropped the back and mid exhaust mounts just so I could have plenty of room. I think I probably could have gotten by with just the rears but it was not too bad to drop the mids either.

Man my wheel wells are dirty...

Next up I put the jack under the diff and loosened the left side shock up top and the 2 18mm cradle bolts. Then back over to the driver side I took out the upper shock bolts then pulled out the cradle bolts on the drivers side. I lowered the jack small bits at a time making sure nothing bad was happening and kept checking the upper arm bolts for clearance. You have to about max it out on the fuel filler to get good clearance for the front upper bolt.

Next I drilled the front tab off. (See speedys video)

Had to do 2 holes because the first one i started too low and the big bit dropped out.

Next popped in the upper cradle lockouts. The small one up front with the rounded side down and the bigger one in the back. Used a big set of channel locks to seat them well.

Decided to do the center upper control arm first. It is specific left and right so make sure you pick the right one.

Then I did the upper forward arm.

Tops all greased/torqued/done. You do need an assortment of extensions and a swivel to get the right angle to remove and install.

Next the lower control arm.

 

[ghorsepower]

Then I did the toe link and jacked it back up. Was a little hard by myself aligning the shock and spring. But I went slow and got it back up. I put the lower lockouts on the cradles and popped the bolts in loose.

Driver side done. Tomorrow I repeat it all on the passenger side. Then I need to find an alignment shop that can do a drag alignment and has done/seen a hellcat before.

 

[OldMoparGuy]

Nicely done. I did mine solo last year. Time consuming, yes, but not very hard. Tougher was sitting at an alignment shop for 4+ hrs. while racking up a $500.00 bill. Good luck finding a shop familiar with the AAD workings. My alignment is all squared away nicely though so definitely worth it all. Pls report back.
PS, you’re going to need a bunch of tabs!

 

[ghorsepower]

Nicely done. I did mine solo last year. Time consuming, yes, but not very hard. Tougher was sitting at an alignment shop for 4+ hrs. while racking up a $500.00 bill. Good luck finding a shop familiar with the AAD workings. My alignment is all squared away nicely though so definitely worth it all. Pls report back.
PS, you’re going to need a bunch of tabs!

I have a bag full that the kit came with. I just popped in all the 0's for now. Most folks that have them say that once you are set it stays aligned well.

 

[OldMoparGuy]

I installed all my parts with the tabs as they came from AAD. The shop used what was necessary to get it where I wanted it.

 

[ghorsepower]

I installed all my parts with the tabs as they came from AAD. The shop used what was necessary to get it where I wanted it.

Same. All of the links came with 0s except the toe links which I had to assemble.

 

[Unholy707]

So did you have to I for the fuel filler neck hose and the e brake cable to do the AAD stuff or no?

 

[OldMoparGuy]

Nope. No need to do either. Only time I had to remove the ebrake cable was when I swapped out my 1/2 shafts for Demon pieces.

 

[Unholy707]

Nice! I just had entire rear suspension apart to do longer studs and new hub bearings lol wish I had the AAD stuff then. The top front arm bolt it what I was worried about

 

[OldMoparGuy]

I cut mine and reinstalled bolt backwards on d/s only, as lots of guys do. I just didnt have it in me to drop the cradle again. I pretty much work alone and did the BMR Cradle lock out the year prior. Should have done in sll at once but its a money thing too. For that matter doing the diff lock out would have been great but Im not pulling all that shit apart again. Re-attaching the knuckles after swapping out 1/2 shafts was a ***** and a half!

 

[SickToo]

Gotta do the diff imo. If only doin one do the diff

Trans jack makes dropping k member a breeze

Do yer diff : )

 

[OldMoparGuy]

Ugh…

 

[ridgeback123]

i wanted to install the diff lockout, suframe lockout and the AAD arms. I felt the trans jack method was best for me.

 

[ridgeback123]

 

[ghorsepower]

No problem accessing the bolts that way!

 

[RGPIII]

View attachment 606744
i wanted to install the diff lockout, suframe lockout and the AAD arms. I felt the trans jack method was best for me.

looks like you deleted the sway bar as well?

 

[ridgeback123]

looks like you deleted the sway bar as well?

Yes Good eye!. Notice the little rotors and long wheel studs as well?

 

[ridgeback123]

I am not affiliated with AAD at all…. but all I can say is if you are interested in your cars consistency on the track….the Complete AAD setup is without a doubt what you need. The front Upper arm is an absolutely amazing upgrade also. The parts have amazing quality, they look amazing and most importantly, they fix all the short comings of the OEM parts. Im a big advocate for locking out the diff and the cradle as well.

 

[RGPIII]

Yes Good eye!. Notice the little rotors and long wheel studs as well?

Sure did, I'm in the process of the 15 inch conversion as we speak. Full AAD rear suspension and sway bar delete as well.

 

[ghorsepower]

So I got everything swapped out and back in today. I did notice something a bit odd when doing the passenger side...

Looks like the cradle has been rubbing/slapping my frame. Maybe others have noticed? After aligning my witness marks and bolting it back together there is certainly a gap up there and the lockouts should keep it from flexing that much?

As far as the AAD stuff I agree with @ridgeback123. Both my ScatPak and the SS were mushy not exactly like a 69 Chevelle big ole boat but there was some mush. Now it is much firmer not exactly a BMW like experience but way better in the curves. And we will see next track day how it helps with the 60ft times. On the street the car still spins anywhere less then 50mph when you nail it but it spins straight now at least. Before the rear end always went not hard right but right when spinning/under load. Still need a drag alignment but its tracking and driving straight now. Also ride is nice and no more noticeable noise/vibrations. I will say the diff clunk i notice more now, maybe, like at certain speeds throttle on throttle off etc... But maybe I am just over listening. Overall two thumbs up for the AAD DragPak and BMR cradle lockouts.