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Active exhaust actuators part number??
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It's hard to take better pics without a lift, but here is what I could get...
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4
I stand corrected, I wasn't looking far enough back...Well it looks like a complete Flowmaster cat-back (has the proper H-pipe) "Outlaw" system (AKA "damn loud"). I double-checked (see the Flowmaster site) and while there are 2 "American Thunder" options and 2 "Outlaw" options, the pics are basically identical (perhaps in error??), however it seems that only one of each type indicates an "active exhaust" provision. If that is the case, and I'm not sure why they would even offer one without the active exhaust solution, then perhaps you have one without it? I can't quite see in your pics if the bracket for the actuator is there or not. They would be past the rear mufflers, just beyond the exhaust hanger, on the outside of each pipe, like in my picture posted previously.
Did they cut the actuators out or just unplug them? Are they tied up somewhere to the underbody (sorry if I am stating the obvious here)?
Otherwise, like you've said, you will need the left/right actuators and AES kit, or alternatively, look into a different cat-back or try and find a local stock take-off exhaust assembly. Sucks either way.
They are both there... just the wires were cut for some weird reason
So this narrows down my problem, I just have to reconnect them, easy peazy!
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2
Thanks for the help!Well it looks like a complete Flowmaster cat-back (has the proper H-pipe) "Outlaw" system (AKA "damn loud"). I double-checked (see the Flowmaster site) and while there are 2 "American Thunder" options and 2 "Outlaw" options, the pics are basically identical (perhaps in error??), however it seems that only one of each type indicates an "active exhaust" provision. If that is the case, and I'm not sure why they would even offer one without the active exhaust solution, then perhaps you have one without it? I can't quite see in your pics if the bracket for the actuator is there or not. They would be past the rear mufflers, just beyond the exhaust hanger, on the outside of each pipe, like in my picture posted previously.
Did they cut the actuators out or just unplug them? Are they tied up somewhere to the underbody (sorry if I am stating the obvious here)?
Otherwise, like you've said, you will need the left/right actuators and AES kit, or alternatively, look into a different cat-back or try and find a local stock take-off exhaust assembly. Sucks either way.
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Ok so here is the problem I am running into now... I found where the wires were cut.
Where do I connect them too?
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Where do I connect them too?
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Ok so finally able to get under and check...An easy way to check if they are getting power is to unplug them at the black plug (you can easily see it in your pic in post #17). Even with the ignition off, when you plug each actuator back in, you should hear a beep or some sort of audible tone from each one. If no tone heard, they are not getting power or otherwise functioning.
If you DO hear a tone upon plugging them back in, then I would guess there could be any of 3 issues. I put them in order of probablility
1. Both actuators use a sort of wire "spring" (for lack of a better term) that goes through a rotating motion (see pic at bottom of this post of my actuator w/spring). These have broken in some instances. If either have broken, it will be obvious, although you will have to unbolt the actuator. Not a big deal - just the 3 bolts you see, and the spacers, too. Now that you have the actuators unbolted and have confirmed the integrity of the springs, you can proceed to #2.
2. The actuators were not properly installed to the brackets. It is one of those things that seems simple enough, but even watching the video (), it is NOT. My advice would be to use the video as a guide, but not to overthink it. It will be clearer once you have them off ands see how the spring should be situated into the simulator bracket so that it will be able to go through the proper range of motion, thereby "fooling" the PCM and not throwing a code.
3. The actuators do have a proper LEFT and RIGHT, so they could be mixed up. Doubtful, but possible.
It would be easier if you have a scanner or use the Check Diagnostics page on your UConnect screen to make sure the actuators are the only thing turning on the MIL, then you can clear it before going thru the diagnostic process, and maybe after, too.
Hope this helps and LMK if you have any other Q's.
View attachment 202593
I unplugged and plugged back in:
Driver side: no noise when plugging back in, very loose on the bracket
Passenger side makes audible noise when plugging back in, like it's powering up, very tight in bracket
Any ideas why I wouldn't be getting power?
Maybe just bite the bullet and buy a new actautor?
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Thanks Chimazo! you're right at least I won't have to buy new actuators. I will keep you posted on the results.If bot are getting power (hence audible tone upon reconnecting), then I would bet that either one of the "springs" is broken or more likely, incorrectly aligned/installed into the eliminator bracket. If it was not installed correctly, the actuator will not be able sweep through its normal range and will still throw a code.
Watch the video I posted above, and make sure you use the spacers in the brackets.
At least it looks like you won't need to purchase the actuators!
I know I will have to go out and get another bolt for the driver side... looks like it fell out at some point.
I will also check the orientation, I'm guessing that is what's tripping me up .
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