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Active exhaust actuators part number??

32815 Views 47 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  HellaciousFish
I recently purchased a 2015 Challenger Hellcat and the previous owner installed a Flowmaster exhaust, (I don't which type).

Anyways, the previous owner cut the active exhaust actuators completely out, and just left the lines dangling... it's no problem to drive or anything, I just hate seeing this stupid MIL light. Plus I can't remote start my car for longer than 10 seconds before it shuts off because of the light.

When I bought the car I didn't think finding these parts would be this difficult , but it is...

Does anybody in this forum know what the part numbers are for the left and right active exhaust actuators?

I would.loke to purchase a left and a right actuator and then get the AES kit and install it that way.

Any help will be much appreciated

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If the previous owner installed a full cat-back Flowmaster exhaust (as opposed to just splicing in some mufflers), it should have the valve eliminators already on there, so you shouldn't need anything but the actuators/springs. Check pic below to see if yours has something similar.

Automotive exhaust Auto part Exhaust system Wire Pipe
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Flowmaster only has 2 choices for the Challenger HC, basically differing in the mufflers (big cans like in the pic above, or skinny ones), but either should have the brackets that the actuators bolt to and function as a simulator. It allows the actuators to go through their motions/test to avoid throwing a code. Did someone modify the stock system and cut out the stock mufflers and valves and just install some mufflers?
Hope you get it worked out either way!
I'm thinking he cut it out, unless im looking in the wrong spot, I posted some pics, let me know what you think
Well it looks like a complete Flowmaster cat-back (has the proper H-pipe) "Outlaw" system (AKA "damn loud"). I double-checked (see the Flowmaster site) and while there are 2 "American Thunder" options and 2 "Outlaw" options, the pics are basically identical (perhaps in error??), however it seems that only one of each type indicates an "active exhaust" provision. If that is the case, and I'm not sure why they would even offer one without the active exhaust solution, then perhaps you have one without it? I can't quite see in your pics if the bracket for the actuator is there or not. They would be past the rear mufflers, just beyond the exhaust hanger, on the outside of each pipe, like in my picture posted previously.
Did they cut the actuators out or just unplug them? Are they tied up somewhere to the underbody (sorry if I am stating the obvious here)?
Otherwise, like you've said, you will need the left/right actuators and AES kit, or alternatively, look into a different cat-back or try and find a local stock take-off exhaust assembly. Sucks either way. :oops:
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An easy way to check if they are getting power is to unplug them at the black plug (you can easily see it in your pic in post #17). Even with the ignition off, when you plug each actuator back in, you should hear a beep or some sort of audible tone from each one. If no tone heard, they are not getting power or otherwise functioning.
If you DO hear a tone upon plugging them back in, then I would guess there could be any of 3 issues. I put them in order of probablility
1. Both actuators use a sort of wire "spring" (for lack of a better term) that goes through a rotating motion (see pic at bottom of this post of my actuator w/spring). These have broken in some instances. If either have broken, it will be obvious, although you will have to unbolt the actuator. Not a big deal - just the 3 bolts you see, and the spacers, too. Now that you have the actuators unbolted and have confirmed the integrity of the springs, you can proceed to #2.
2. The actuators were not properly installed to the brackets. It is one of those things that seems simple enough, but even watching the video (
), it is NOT. My advice would be to use the video as a guide, but not to overthink it. It will be clearer once you have them off ands see how the spring should be situated into the simulator bracket so that it will be able to go through the proper range of motion, thereby "fooling" the PCM and not throwing a code.
3. The actuators do have a proper LEFT and RIGHT, so they could be mixed up. Doubtful, but possible.
It would be easier if you have a scanner or use the Check Diagnostics page on your UConnect screen to make sure the actuators are the only thing turning on the MIL, then you can clear it before going thru the diagnostic process, and maybe after, too.
Hope this helps and LMK if you have any other Q's.:)
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If bot are getting power (hence audible tone upon reconnecting), then I would bet that either one of the "springs" is broken or more likely, incorrectly aligned/installed into the eliminator bracket. If it was not installed correctly, the actuator will not be able sweep through its normal range and will still throw a code.

Watch the video I posted above, and make sure you use the spacers in the brackets.
At least it looks like you won't need to purchase the actuators!:)
I ran through multiple cycles and tried putting the spring in at different positions... but the codes kept popping up. They are still running through their "checks", and the function sounds normal, both springs are in tact.

Any new ideas? Am I stuck having to buy new actuators?

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Have you tried clearing the codes and then seeing what happens? Normally codes won't clear themselves, at least initially, even if the problem has been resolved. I forgot to plug in the sensor when changing my air cleaner on my Scat Pack and even after I did, the code would still pop up. Easy enough to clear with a scanner.
Flowmaster's headquarters are literally in my backyard they did a intake yes a flowmaster intake and a American thunder exhaust. Only issue now is those dang valves squeak to high heavin if it's in any mode other than track. It's embarrassing when I first start it. Working with my service department and flowmaster to resolve the issue any one else get the squeekes? Lol
Many have had the same issue with the squeaking valves even with the stock exhaust. The easiest solution would be to work with Flowmaster (since you are right there) and see if they will swap out the rear pipes for their version that doesn't have the valves. Otherwise, I believe some have tried various greases/lubes, but beyond that, I think the only remedy was replacement, but obviously with no guarantee it wouldn't eventually occur again. Personally, one of the reasons I went with FM was to get rid of the valves, but I'll be the first to say that it is pretty loud without them.
I've had this one for about 2yrs after my old one (different brand) finally lost too many of the digital hashes in its display to figure out what the code was. Autel AL519 AutoLink Enhanced OBD ll Scan Tool with Mode 6: Automotive
This is what I'd call a middle of the road scanner, but it has the features most would ever need.
Don't worry about what the scanner tells you the codes are referring to. Some codes are universal and some are specific to the car manufacturer.
I'm 99% sure both of your codes are exhaust valve related. If something was amiss at this point with the actuators, they should have thrown a code upon start-up after they run through the test cycle.
The only way to be sure is to use the car, but It sounds like you have fixed the problem. :)
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