Active exhaust actuators part number??

If the previous owner installed a full cat-back Flowmaster exhaust (as opposed to just splicing in some mufflers), it should have the valve eliminators already on there, so you shouldn't need anything but the actuators/springs. Check pic below to see if yours has something similar.

taclleh2015 said:

I'm thinking he cut it out, unless im looking in the wrong spot, I posted some pics, let me know what you think

Click to expand...

Well it looks like a complete Flowmaster cat-back (has the proper H-pipe) "Outlaw" system (AKA "damn loud"). I double-checked (see the Flowmaster site) and while there are 2 "American Thunder" options and 2 "Outlaw" options, the pics are basically identical (perhaps in error??), however it seems that only one of each type indicates an "active exhaust" provision. If that is the case, and I'm not sure why they would even offer one without the active exhaust solution, then perhaps you have one without it? I can't quite see in your pics if the bracket for the actuator is there or not. They would be past the rear mufflers, just beyond the exhaust hanger, on the outside of each pipe, like in my picture posted previously.
Did they cut the actuators out or just unplug them? Are they tied up somewhere to the underbody (sorry if I am stating the obvious here)?
Otherwise, like you've said, you will need the left/right actuators and AES kit, or alternatively, look into a different cat-back or try and find a local stock take-off exhaust assembly. Sucks either way.

An easy way to check if they are getting power is to unplug them at the black plug (you can easily see it in your pic in post #17). Even with the ignition off, when you plug each actuator back in, you should hear a beep or some sort of audible tone from each one. If no tone heard, they are not getting power or otherwise functioning.
If you DO hear a tone upon plugging them back in, then I would guess there could be any of 3 issues. I put them in order of probablility
1. Both actuators use a sort of wire "spring" (for lack of a better term) that goes through a rotating motion (see pic at bottom of this post of my actuator w/spring). These have broken in some instances. If either have broken, it will be obvious, although you will have to unbolt the actuator. Not a big deal - just the 3 bolts you see, and the spacers, too. Now that you have the actuators unbolted and have confirmed the integrity of the springs, you can proceed to #2.
2. The actuators were not properly installed to the brackets. It is one of those things that seems simple enough, but even watching the video (), it is NOT. My advice would be to use the video as a guide, but not to overthink it. It will be clearer once you have them off ands see how the spring should be situated into the simulator bracket so that it will be able to go through the proper range of motion, thereby "fooling" the PCM and not throwing a code.
3. The actuators do have a proper LEFT and RIGHT, so they could be mixed up. Doubtful, but possible.
It would be easier if you have a scanner or use the Check Diagnostics page on your UConnect screen to make sure the actuators are the only thing turning on the MIL, then you can clear it before going thru the diagnostic process, and maybe after, too.
Hope this helps and LMK if you have any other Q's.