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Active exhaust actuators part number??

32892 Views 47 Replies 9 Participants Last post by HellaciousFish, Dec 14, 2017

taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · May 25, 2017

I recently purchased a 2015 Challenger Hellcat and the previous owner installed a Flowmaster exhaust, (I don't which type).

Anyways, the previous owner cut the active exhaust actuators completely out, and just left the lines dangling... it's no problem to drive or anything, I just hate seeing this stupid MIL light. Plus I can't remote start my car for longer than 10 seconds before it shuts off because of the light.

When I bought the car I didn't think finding these parts would be this difficult , but it is...

Does anybody in this forum know what the part numbers are for the left and right active exhaust actuators?

I would.loke to purchase a left and a right actuator and then get the AES kit and install it that way.

Any help will be much appreciated

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taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #21 · May 30, 2017

Ok, upon further investigation, it "sounds" like they are connected and are trying to "operate", which tells me 2 things:

1. They ARE getting power...

2. The car is not sensing them

So they really could be malfunctioning?... or... They installed them backwards? I'm at a loss...

I took a video, you can hear them in action, but my MIL is still on...

Any thoughts?

How do I upload a video?

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Chimazo

· #22 · May 30, 2017

An easy way to check if they are getting power is to unplug them at the black plug (you can easily see it in your pic in post #17). Even with the ignition off, when you plug each actuator back in, you should hear a beep or some sort of audible tone from each one. If no tone heard, they are not getting power or otherwise functioning.
If you DO hear a tone upon plugging them back in, then I would guess there could be any of 3 issues. I put them in order of probablility
1. Both actuators use a sort of wire "spring" (for lack of a better term) that goes through a rotating motion (see pic at bottom of this post of my actuator w/spring). These have broken in some instances. If either have broken, it will be obvious, although you will have to unbolt the actuator. Not a big deal - just the 3 bolts you see, and the spacers, too. Now that you have the actuators unbolted and have confirmed the integrity of the springs, you can proceed to #2.
2. The actuators were not properly installed to the brackets. It is one of those things that seems simple enough, but even watching the video (

), it is NOT. My advice would be to use the video as a guide, but not to overthink it. It will be clearer once you have them off ands see how the spring should be situated into the simulator bracket so that it will be able to go through the proper range of motion, thereby "fooling" the PCM and not throwing a code.
3. The actuators do have a proper LEFT and RIGHT, so they could be mixed up. Doubtful, but possible.
It would be easier if you have a scanner or use the Check Diagnostics page on your UConnect screen to make sure the actuators are the only thing turning on the MIL, then you can clear it before going thru the diagnostic process, and maybe after, too.
Hope this helps and LMK if you have any other Q's.

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taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #23 · Jun 4, 2017

Chimazo said:
An easy way to check if they are getting power is to unplug them at the black plug (you can easily see it in your pic in post #17). Even with the ignition off, when you plug each actuator back in, you should hear a beep or some sort of audible tone from each one. If no tone heard, they are not getting power or otherwise functioning.
If you DO hear a tone upon plugging them back in, then I would guess there could be any of 3 issues. I put them in order of probablility
1. Both actuators use a sort of wire "spring" (for lack of a better term) that goes through a rotating motion (see pic at bottom of this post of my actuator w/spring). These have broken in some instances. If either have broken, it will be obvious, although you will have to unbolt the actuator. Not a big deal - just the 3 bolts you see, and the spacers, too. Now that you have the actuators unbolted and have confirmed the integrity of the springs, you can proceed to #2.
2. The actuators were not properly installed to the brackets. It is one of those things that seems simple enough, but even watching the video (

), it is NOT. My advice would be to use the video as a guide, but not to overthink it. It will be clearer once you have them off ands see how the spring should be situated into the simulator bracket so that it will be able to go through the proper range of motion, thereby "fooling" the PCM and not throwing a code.
3. The actuators do have a proper LEFT and RIGHT, so they could be mixed up. Doubtful, but possible.
It would be easier if you have a scanner or use the Check Diagnostics page on your UConnect screen to make sure the actuators are the only thing turning on the MIL, then you can clear it before going thru the diagnostic process, and maybe after, too.
Hope this helps and LMK if you have any other Q's.
View attachment 202593

Ok so finally able to get under and check...

I unplugged and plugged back in:

Driver side: no noise when plugging back in, very loose on the bracket

Passenger side makes audible noise when plugging back in, like it's powering up, very tight in bracket

Any ideas why I wouldn't be getting power?

Maybe just bite the bullet and buy a new actautor?

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taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #24 · Jun 4, 2017

taclleh2015 said:
Ok so finally able to get under and check...

I unplugged and plugged back in:

Driver side: no noise when plugging back in, very loose on the bracket

Passenger side makes audible noise when plugging back in, like it's powering up, very tight in bracket

Any ideas why I wouldn't be getting power?

Maybe just bite the bullet and buy a new actautor?

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Little more digging, the driver side actuator IS getting power, but only after a few "convincing taps"... the connection seems clean and tight, and the passenger side is also getting power... however I'm still getting codes for both
P1217 and P121B...

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s5scat

· #25 · Jun 5, 2017

So are they connected? Ensure the actuators are installed on correct side (left and right)

You may have to remove and reinstall per video to make sure they are correctly on there.

What are the cut wires from?

taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #26 · Jun 5, 2017

s5scat said:
So are they connected? Ensure the actuators are installed on correct side (left and right)

You may have to remove and reinstall per video to make sure they are correctly on there.

What are the cut wires from?

I went under the car and it looks like they might be wires for the lights the previous owner had. I found LED light strips under the car on the driver and passenger side, but haven't been able to get them to turn on, my guess is those wires.

I will have to wait until next weekend to get under it to remove and re-install both actuators.

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Chimazo

· #27 · Jun 5, 2017

If bot are getting power (hence audible tone upon reconnecting), then I would bet that either one of the "springs" is broken or more likely, incorrectly aligned/installed into the eliminator bracket. If it was not installed correctly, the actuator will not be able sweep through its normal range and will still throw a code.

Watch the video I posted above, and make sure you use the spacers in the brackets.
At least it looks like you won't need to purchase the actuators!

taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #28 · Jun 5, 2017

Chimazo said:
If bot are getting power (hence audible tone upon reconnecting), then I would bet that either one of the "springs" is broken or more likely, incorrectly aligned/installed into the eliminator bracket. If it was not installed correctly, the actuator will not be able sweep through its normal range and will still throw a code.

Watch the video I posted above, and make sure you use the spacers in the brackets.
At least it looks like you won't need to purchase the actuators!

Thanks Chimazo! you're right at least I won't have to buy new actuators. I will keep you posted on the results.

I know I will have to go out and get another bolt for the driver side... looks like it fell out at some point.

I will also check the orientation, I'm guessing that is what's tripping me up .

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taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #29 · Jun 10, 2017

Ok, so I finally found some time today to get under the car.

Driver side was missing a bolt, so I removed the actuator from the bracket and used one of the bolts to find another from my local hardware.

Stainless steel #10-32 x 3/4" socket head. Picked up a pack of 2. Also grabbed some stainless steel washers, same size.

My spring is short, and compact.

I got under there to put it on the bracket, had a tough time because the spring kept trying to pop out through the back side, not much, just the "tip" of the spring kept popping through.

Once I had it "set", I tightened the bolts down, and turned the ignition to "RUN".

I'm still getting the p1217 and p121b codes but now I'm also getting the U113F code, which is failure to communicate with driver actuator.

Does anybody know the correct orientation for the spring when attaching to the brackets? Any pictures?

I ran through multiple cycles and tried putting the spring in at different positions... but the codes kept popping up. They are still running through their "checks", and the function sounds normal, both springs are in tact.

Any new ideas? Am I stuck having to buy new actuators?

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Acrkat

· #30 · Jun 11, 2017

Flowmaster's headquarters are literally in my backyard they did a intake yes a flowmaster intake and a American thunder exhaust. Only issue now is those dang valves squeak to high heavin if it's in any mode other than track. It's embarrassing when I first start it. Working with my service department and flowmaster to resolve the issue any one else get the squeekes? Lol

Chimazo

· #31 · Jun 11, 2017

taclleh2015 said:
I ran through multiple cycles and tried putting the spring in at different positions... but the codes kept popping up. They are still running through their "checks", and the function sounds normal, both springs are in tact.

Any new ideas? Am I stuck having to buy new actuators?

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Have you tried clearing the codes and then seeing what happens? Normally codes won't clear themselves, at least initially, even if the problem has been resolved. I forgot to plug in the sensor when changing my air cleaner on my Scat Pack and even after I did, the code would still pop up. Easy enough to clear with a scanner.

Chimazo

· #32 · Jun 11, 2017

Acrkat said:
Flowmaster's headquarters are literally in my backyard they did a intake yes a flowmaster intake and a American thunder exhaust. Only issue now is those dang valves squeak to high heavin if it's in any mode other than track. It's embarrassing when I first start it. Working with my service department and flowmaster to resolve the issue any one else get the squeekes? Lol

Many have had the same issue with the squeaking valves even with the stock exhaust. The easiest solution would be to work with Flowmaster (since you are right there) and see if they will swap out the rear pipes for their version that doesn't have the valves. Otherwise, I believe some have tried various greases/lubes, but beyond that, I think the only remedy was replacement, but obviously with no guarantee it wouldn't eventually occur again. Personally, one of the reasons I went with FM was to get rid of the valves, but I'll be the first to say that it is pretty loud without them.

taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #33 · Jun 11, 2017

Acrkat said:
Flowmaster's headquarters are literally in my backyard they did a intake yes a flowmaster intake and a American thunder exhaust. Only issue now is those dang valves squeak to high heavin if it's in any mode other than track. It's embarrassing when I first start it. Working with my service department and flowmaster to resolve the issue any one else get the squeekes? Lol

Im not getting the squeaking. Just getting the MIL when I start.

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taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #34 · Jun 11, 2017

Chimazo said:
Have you tried clearing the codes and then seeing what happens? Normally codes won't clear themselves, at least initially, even if the problem has been resolved. I forgot to plug in the sensor when changing my air cleaner on my Scat Pack and even after I did, the code would still pop up. Easy enough to clear with a scanner.

Which scanner should I get? I want to make sure I get the right one.

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Chimazo

· #35 · Jun 13, 2017

I've had this one for about 2yrs after my old one (different brand) finally lost too many of the digital hashes in its display to figure out what the code was. Amazon.com: Autel AL519 AutoLink Enhanced OBD ll Scan Tool with Mode 6: Automotive
This is what I'd call a middle of the road scanner, but it has the features most would ever need.

taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #36 · Jun 14, 2017

Chimazo said:
I've had this one for about 2yrs after my old one (different brand) finally lost too many of the digital hashes in its display to figure out what the code was. Amazon.com: Autel AL519 AutoLink Enhanced OBD ll Scan Tool with Mode 6: Automotive
This is what I'd call a middle of the road scanner, but it has the features most would ever need.

Thanks Chimazo!

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taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #37 · Jun 17, 2017

Chimazo said:
I've had this one for about 2yrs after my old one (different brand) finally lost too many of the digital hashes in its display to figure out what the code was. Amazon.com: Autel AL519 AutoLink Enhanced OBD ll Scan Tool with Mode 6: Automotive
This is what I'd call a middle of the road scanner, but it has the features most would ever need.

Ok, ordered it, and it finally got here, I hooked it up and it was giving me the p1217 and p121b codes...

I used the Autel OBDII Scanner and cleared the codes...

I turned my car on and off several times so far, and the MIL has not come back on, (again, thank you Chimazo!).

Now the question I have is, how long, or how many times can I start the car before those come back on?

Also on the scanner, it is telling me the p1217 code is for a fuel solenoid, not driver side exhaust actuator.

The p121b code tells me to refer to the owners manual.

Idk, I'm just happy I can remote start the cat again!

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Chimazo

· #38 · Jun 17, 2017

Don't worry about what the scanner tells you the codes are referring to. Some codes are universal and some are specific to the car manufacturer.
I'm 99% sure both of your codes are exhaust valve related. If something was amiss at this point with the actuators, they should have thrown a code upon start-up after they run through the test cycle.
The only way to be sure is to use the car, but It sounds like you have fixed the problem.

taclleh2015

Discussion Starter · #39 · Jun 17, 2017

Chimazo said:
Don't worry about what the scanner tells you the codes are referring to. Some codes are universal and some are specific to the car manufacturer.
I'm 99% sure both of your codes are exhaust valve related. If something was amiss at this point with the actuators, they should have thrown a code upon start-up after they run through the test cycle.
The only way to be sure is to use the car, but It sounds like you have fixed the problem.

Ok, so 3 times is the cycle.

I tried remote starting again right after just to be sure, it started ran through it's "checks" then turned off... I got in the car, turned it to run and the MIL is back on again... but hey at least I have a temporary fix at this point

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HellaciousFish

· #40 · Nov 16, 2017

taclleh2015 said:
Ok, so 3 times is the cycle.

I tried remote starting again right after just to be sure, it started ran through it's "checks" then turned off... I got in the car, turned it to run and the MIL is back on again... but hey at least I have a temporary fix at this point

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You ever get anywhere else with getting this finally fixed man?

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