An easy way to check if they are getting power is to unplug them at the black plug (you can easily see it in your pic in post #17). Even with the ignition off, when you plug each actuator back in, you should hear a beep or some sort of audible tone from each one. If no tone heard, they are not getting power or otherwise functioning.
If you DO hear a tone upon plugging them back in, then I would guess there could be any of 3 issues. I put them in order of probablility
1. Both actuators use a sort of wire "spring" (for lack of a better term) that goes through a rotating motion (see pic at bottom of this post of my actuator w/spring
). These have broken in some instances. If either have broken, it will be obvious, although you will have to unbolt the actuator. Not a big deal - just the 3 bolts you see, and the spacers, too. Now that you have the actuators unbolted and have confirmed the integrity of the springs, you can proceed to #2.
2. The actuators were not properly installed to the brackets. It is one of those things that seems simple enough, but even watching the video (
), it is NOT. My advice would be to use the video as a guide, but not to overthink it. It will be clearer once you have them off ands see how the spring should be situated into the simulator bracket so that it will be able to go through the proper range of motion, thereby "fooling" the PCM and not
throwing a code.
3. The actuators do have a proper LEFT and RIGHT, so they could be mixed up. Doubtful, but possible.
It would be easier if you have a scanner or use the Check Diagnostics page on your UConnect screen to make sure the actuators are the only thing turning on the MIL, then you can clear it before going thru the diagnostic process, and maybe after, too.
Hope this helps and LMK if you have any other Q's.
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