Adding the The Redeye-Prestage kit

@Q-36 Mishimoto is the Best 180 T stat. I have this installed on My Hellcat now.
Description
Your high-performance 5.7L, 6.1L, 6.4L or 6.2L HEMI needs a reliable and effective cooling system to extend engine life and perform at its absolute best. Mishimoto is proud to introduce a racing thermostat specifically designed for the 5.7L/6.1L Hemi engine. Mishimoto racing thermostats promote greater cooling efficiency by significantly decreasing high engine temperatures. Once the engine is fully warmed up, the Mishimoto low-temperature racing thermostat will open at a lower temperature (180°) compared to standard thermostats (203°). This allows coolant to flow through the engine sooner, thus reducing and maintaining cooler engine temperatures. Whether your vehicle is stock, cammed, or blown, the Mishimoto racing thermostat will provide superior cooling efficiency to keep your vehicle on the road and out of the shop. As with all our products, this thermostat includes the Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty
*Does not Work on 6.4L Rams


For all Mishimoto Lifetime Warranty claims, please visit:
Lifetime Warranty


My husband back in 2015 Popped a Metco Breather on our Hellcats, and they are still there today.
Metco is also a supporting vendor on here.https://www.hellcat.org/forums/metco-motorsports.23/




Description
This breather installs as a direct replacement for the OEM oil fill cap, and absolutely no modifications are required. The precision-machined helix in the bottom of the billet stand fits tightly into the fill tube, and the seal is maintained by the included o-ring.

In supercharged applications, combustion pressures invariably find their way into the crank case, and this pressure contributes to pumping losses, elevated oil temps, and premature failure of engine seals. The breather serves as a high-flow vent to allow any pressure that builds to easily vent into the atmosphere.

This breather is fitted with our proprietary APV one-way check valve, so while internal pressures can pass through, outside air cannot be drawn through the breather and into the inlet tract of the engine. Your engine tune will not be affected by the installation of this breather.

Like all Metco breathers, this unit is CNC-machined from 6061 aluminum, and micro-finished on the exterior surface. The filter is a high-quality reusable unit manufactured in the USA by S & B filters.

Total installed height is less than 3". This breather may not be legal in all states.

For earlier Gen III Hemi applications using a screw-in style oil cap, please see the MBR0012 breather listed elsewhere in this section.

CANNOT BE SHIPPED TO CALIFORNIA**

180 degree thermostat does not make an engine run cooler. It means the thermostat opens at 180 to allow radiator fluid to start flowing through the block.

if the engine’s natural temp is 225, it will still run at 225 even with a 160 degree thermostat. If the engine runs most efficiently at 225, a 180 will hurt more than it helps - especially in cold weather when you want the block to heat up.

Same is true if the engine runs naturally at 180 and most efficiently at 225 but the user puts a 180 degree thermostat in, that hurts performance more than helps.

to add; i had a 63 Dodge Dart, 4-door, with a 225 Slant 6, and living in San Diego. I took the thermostat out all together be cause I didn’t want a $5 piece failing in the closed position thereby overheating my engine. Most older, carbureted engines i do that to for that reason alone.

Long explanation

Yes.

The thermostat controls the minimum operating temperature of the engine by beginning to open at the set point and then throttles coolant flow to maintain a minimum operating temperature if needed.
Once the minimum operating temperature is reached the upper operating temperature limit is controlled by the radiator’s thermal equilibrium with the environment. That is a function of heat rejection to the cooling system and heat dissipation from the radiator.
Radiators (heat exchangers) are sized with excess capacity and the thermostat controls the limiting lower temperature. The reason for excess capacity of course is ambient operating conditions; hot day, heavy load/throttle, low vehicle speed operation (partially compensated for by the fan set point) otherwise overheating, also known as, thermal runaway occurs.
If the lower portion of the cylinder remains above the dew point of the combustion products there will be no condensation formed within the cylinders from the combustion products and if the oil temperature is above 180F condensation products will evaporate from the oil (general rule of thumb is the average oil temperature is 50 degrees F below the maximum oil temperature at hot spots, so water is easily boiled off as well as acid products).
Aluminum expands at 10x10*-6 in/in and iron at 6x10*-6 inches per inch. If you know the cylinder bore clearance you can solve for the thermal expansion crossover point. In other words, aluminum expands faster than iron so there is a crossover point where the engine will seize; piston to wall clearance becomes zero. We never want to get there.
Polymers and oil degradation rates doubles for every 10 degree C operating temperature rise (or 18 degrees F). Basically, too hot is bad, too cold is bad.

My goal is to reduce the lower set point from 203F which is controlled by the thermostat to 180F. Since there is margin built into the cooling system this will allow the engine to run at a minimum of 180F on very cold days and below 203F given the cooling margin. This should lower the engine operating temperature by approximately 20 degrees since the radiator has margin for extreme ambient temperature operation. Engineering design is for the engine oil temperature is to live at 20-30 degrees F above coolant temperature.
Operating at 180F or below 203F will extend oil life, seal life, in addition there is more resistance to knock/ping because of lower charge temperature.
We know that these engines go into limp home mode at coolant temperatures of 250F for a variety of reasons, knock, thermal expansion, oil degradation, seal damage.
Additionally, there is more thermal capacity in the engine IF it starts a performance run at 180F, a 70-degree margin to 250 F versus a 47-degree F margin from 203F.
My desire for the “stage kit” was to be able to use a 180F thermostat with a new factory calibration. The 5-degree spark advance is a nice performance addition.
If that calibration kit is not available, I’ll probably just put in a 195F and split the difference.

Hopefully that clarifies my goal. Appropriately, lower engine operating temperatures for enhanced durability while avoiding operating the engine outside its intended design parameters.