[ABTwoC]

Car has been pulling to the right pretty drastically over last two weeks. Went in to normal mechanic to get an alignment and was told I might possibly need a subframe adjustment or camber bolts, stuff that has to be done at a dealer. Got an appointment Wednesday, just wondering if anybody has dealt with this and could let me in on what it ended up costing them.

Appreciate any help in advance!

Alignment readings for anyone interested:

 

[Blickie]

Yeah, your alignment is bad. You do have a lot of side to side variance issues with front Caster and Camber... they should be a lot closer, all the Toes are off and Rear Thrust is way out.

Have posted several times on alignments. Do a Search on my Name with keyword 'alignment'. Let us know.

 

[baabootoo]

Ok, I'll ask................ Any wheel/tire/mod changes? Accidents? Look up "MChulst" posts about this.

 

[ABTwoC]

Ok, I'll ask................ Any wheel/tire/mod changes? Accidents? Look up "MChulst" posts about this.

Stock wheels, stock suspension. Zero accidents reported on CarFax and none while I have been the owner.

 

[Frosty]

What's the ride height between your drivers side wheel and passenger side wheel? It almost looks like your drivers side spring may be sagging causing it to sit lower. Having the drivers side front sitting lower than the passenger side would create an excessive negative camber there with the associated lack of camber in the passenger side. I would diffidently give those control arms a quick visual as well. Just because an accident wasn't reported doesn't mean a curb or large pothole wasn't hit. While the rest could use some dialing in, it doesn't concern me, but that front camber is the red flag to me.

I know I'm not a pro with these cars alignments but I don't see how a cradle shift will fix the front camber issues. Cradle shifts will effect more of the caster numbers than camber.

For my car. I converted over to the AAD suspension and was able to dial things in perfectly pretty easily.

 

[baabootoo]

Did anything happen just before it started?

 

[DGatzby]

Just notice the “pull” the last two weeks? Interesting. Something caused that differential camber up front. Either something was hit or something is physically wrong between those two sides because it is not adjustable and BOTH sides are off, one one way and the other the other way. The toe setting up front while balanced L-R is too much. Who set that? And something happened or someone set that rear toe a mile off on one side for some reason. The toe settings are what is bothering the steering, but something is also wrong up front to make both sides way out of spec for camber. Worry about that caster after camber, it is not that far off.

 

[sleeper_redeye]

Why were you in for an alignment?

Was it only because you noticed the car pulling?

Do you park on the street?

are there any signed of witness marks on any of the wheels?

sorry for 20 questions but it could be that someone slowly backed into you then took off or some funny business like that

 

[WickedHEMI]

I wonder if your cat has the same problem as this guy's cat

Ended up being a chassis defect or something

 

[BigDaddyEureka]

Not sure where you're located, but I'd highly recommend my dealer in Roanoke, IL if you're anywhere near by. They did an AWESOME job on mine.

 

[Joebroni]

So did they not do an alignment while they were there? They could have at least brought the Toe into spec before pulling it back off. The rear camber looks normal. Mine is all red too with stock ride height. The LF camber would definitely be causing a pull right. I'm not a Dodge tech so I can't speak to whether a subframe shift is possible, but it would only balance the numbers side to side, not just magically put them all green. If a shift is possible, you could balance the front camber -1.7/-1.8, but it's still out of spec at the end of the day. The Hunter machine they were using would give the option to Illustrate Adjustments and speak to shifting the subframe. That would address the pulling at least. If that isn't the option, then you've definitely got something bent on the LF.

 

[hc797]

I wonder if your cat has the same problem as this guy's cat

Ended up being a chassis defect or something

What a nightmare!

 

[Rockster]

Just notice the “pull” the last two weeks? Interesting. Something caused that differential camber up front. Either something was hit or something is physically wrong between those two sides because it is not adjustable and BOTH sides are off, one one way and the other the other way. The toe setting up front while balanced L-R is too much. Who set that? And something happened or someone set that rear toe a mile off on one side for some reason. The toe settings are what is bothering the steering, but something is also wrong up front to make both sides way out of spec for camber. Worry about that caster after camber, it is not that far off.

The alignment is pretty bad.

But regarding caster, my info is that much difference in caster is quite substantial. And can account for a car wanting to pull in one direction of another. Used to be caster was used to counter the tendency of a car to pull due to road camber/crown.

But for years my preference has been to have both wheel caster settings the same. Where I lived road camber/crown was all over the map and often times on a multi lane road the difference in caster would exacerbate the tendency of the car to pull.

I was quite content to have the caster the same and thus the car neutral when it came to road crown/camber. If it pulled a bit to the right or left I was ok with that. What I wanted was if the road had no crown/camber that the car steered straight with no tendency to pull in either direction.

 

[DGatzby]

Until that camber is adjusted the caster and toe are later. Something is wrong mechanically.

 

[Hoss056]

The pull is coming from the front. The thrust angle is good. The only way to correct rear camber is by buying a set of camber links that are different lengths. Mopar sells links that are longer or shorter depending on what you need. If it were an impact I'd expect to see the front toe to be out also. They can try a cradle shift, which is not as big a deal as it sounds, but I dont think there will be enough adjustment to bring the LF camber in. They sell bolts that have a ridge on one side. There are slots in the bushings on the lower control arms and tension struts. Depending on how you orient the bolt in the bushing it shifts the arm or strut in or out to correct the alignment. The lower control arm controls camber and the tension strut controls caster. Once you get that lined out it's a simple toe set and you are in business.

 

[Hoss056]

The LF camber is way out though. Hopefully a cradle shift and offset bolt will be enough. I cant remember how many degrees the bolt is good for.

 

[Dennis H]

Gotta be an explanation.

 

[DGatzby]

One more time and if you won’t listen, whatever. Inspect that right front, because you cannot adjust the camber AT ALL, LET ALONE SEVERAL DEGREES. It was not delivered that way. You have damage or a worn out part up there. Fix that, check the front toe and for God’s sakes decrease that toe angle. Then, adjust the rear toe that is so unbalanced it should be embarrassing to whoever did that. If I am wrong someone took your car out and hit some curbs hard! It is not time to begin shifting around subframe assemblies, you have some other inspections and things to check first.

 

[Hoss056]

I agree that there is an issue with a bent or worn component but the camber can 100% be adjusted. It is outlined in the manufacturer service manual. A cradle shift is the first step then a offset bolt can be installed to get about .3 degrees plus or minus based on installation orientation.

 

[Hoss056]

Ever get anything figured out?