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Alignment / Tire Shake Woes

2214 Views 69 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Blickie
So I think I've exhausted all my options for the pull/tire shake.

I started off by getting an alignment, still pulled right. Then I went over and got the tires balanced. Still pulled right. Went back got the alignment rechecked, said it was in specs but had them flip the tires left right. Still pulls right.
Picked up new front tires since the pirellis are worn. Tires shake and it pulls right. I was told they don't use that "smart balance mode".

I'm making them rebalance them but if that doesn't work it's gotta be something else, I'll post my alignment sheet so you guys can look at it but, it might be something else at this point.
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So I think I've exhausted all my options for the pull/tire shake.

I started off by getting an alignment, still pulled right. Then I went over and got the tires balanced. Still pulled right. Went back got the alignment rechecked, said it was in specs but had them flip the tires left right. Still pulls right.
Picked up new front tires since the pirellis are worn. Tires shake and it pulls right. I was told they don't use that "smart balance mode".

I'm making them rebalance them but if that doesn't work it's gotta be something else, I'll post my alignment sheet so you guys can look at it but, it might be something else at this point.
Yeah, need to see the alignment printout.

Smart Weight/Smart Balance Mode MUST be turned off after a fresh calibration. Take a minute and ask to talk to the wheel tech doing the balance. Chat with him, tell him the story, what you need and ask the tech to work with you.

Might have a bad R/F Wheel Bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, need to see the alignment printout.

Smart Weight/Smart Balance Mode MUST be turned off after a fresh calibration. Take a minute and ask to talk to the wheel tech doing the balance. Chat with him, tell him the story, what you need and ask the tech to work with you.

Might have a bad R/F Wheel Bearing.
Yeah, need to see the alignment printout.

Smart Weight/Smart Balance Mode MUST be turned off after a fresh calibration. Take a minute and ask to talk to the wheel tech doing the balance. Chat with him, tell him the story, what you need and ask the tech to work with you.

Might have a bad R/F Wheel Bearing.
They said they don't use it. So they are re doing it again and we will see how it goes.
It starts shaking around 60 and by 75mph it vibrates.
 

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They said they don't use it. So they are re doing it again and we will see how it goes.
It starts shaking around 60 and by 75mph it vibrates.
I read your comment and what they told you, BUT it's acting like they are pulling your leg. Your symptom is EXACTLY what happens when they don't turn off those settings. Been there and done that.

This is why I suggested talking to the tech and/or the shop manager.

If they do a fresh calibration, those settings are turned back ON by default & have to be turned OFF.
 

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So I think I've exhausted all my options for the pull/tire shake.

I started off by getting an alignment, still pulled right. Then I went over and got the tires balanced. Still pulled right. Went back got the alignment rechecked, said it was in specs but had them flip the tires left right. Still pulls right.
Picked up new front tires since the pirellis are worn. Tires shake and it pulls right. I was told they don't use that "smart balance mode".

I'm making them rebalance them but if that doesn't work it's gotta be something else, I'll post my alignment sheet so you guys can look at it but, it might be something else at this point.
Crown in the road? Find a dead flat road and see what is does.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I read your comment and what they told you, BUT it's acting like they are pulling your leg. Your symptom is EXACTLY what happens when they don't turn off those settings. Been there and done that.

This is why I suggested talking to the tech and/or the shop manager.

If they do a fresh calibration, those settings are turned back ON by default & have to be turned OFF.
I did and this time the tires don't shake. I went up to 100mph and they feel good.
Heres the alignment
Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern Schematic



PULL when braking or drift w/o braking? Shaking in seat or wheel? Any extra aero crap on the car?
No pull while braking.
Crown in the road? Find a dead flat road and see what is does.
I did still pulls.

So, it is possible I may have a dragging brake or warped rotor. I was driving back and I heard this metal sound coming from the brake. All the pads are in good shape and so seem to be the rotors but that could possible be the cause.
 

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Uneven caster side-to-side. Too much cross-caster can make a vehicle pull or lead towards the side that has the least (negative) caster.

Looking at your alignment results, the passenger side has .8 degrees more positive caster that the other side. Am I reading this correctly everyone?
 

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I did and this time the tires don't shake. I went up to 100mph and they feel good.
Heres the alignment
View attachment 607963



No pull while braking.

I did still pulls.

So, it is possible I may have a dragging brake or warped rotor. I was driving back and I heard this metal sound coming from the brake. All the pads are in good shape and so seem to be the rotors but that could possible be the cause.
Wheels are now balanced.

You swapped front wheels and still have right drift / pull.

This right drift / pull issue is something that started one day and was not previously happening??

With 3/4 Degree less Caster on the LF, there should be no pull or drift to the right as Caster is the dominant factor. There is also more positive Camber on the LF as well, so again, nothing should be going to the right as far as alignment is concerned. Both are very close to factory specs.

I trust the front suspension has been checked for tightness, i.e. items 17, 28 & 23 on the attached pic.

With these numbers, if you have a pull to the right just rolling down a fairly level road & the pull issue just started, then it would seem it's a RF issue.

Could be the RF wheel bearing.

If you think you have RF Brake Drag, pictures of both front rotors will help us. You can check for brake drag by jacking the RF. Have someone in the car apply the brake engine running, pause a second or two, and then release the brake. The wheel should rotate freely almost instantly upon release with little to no drag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Wheels are now balanced.

You swapped front wheels and still have right drift / pull.

This right drift / pull issue is something that started one day and was not previously happening??

With 3/4 Degree less Caster on the LF, there should be no pull or drift to the right as Caster is the dominant factor. There is also more positive Camber on the LF as well, so again, nothing should be going to the right as far as alignment is concerned. Both are very close to factory specs.

I trust the front suspension has been checked for tightness, i.e. items 17, 28 & 23 on the attached pic.

With these numbers, if you have a pull to the right just rolling down a fairly level road & the pull issue just started, then it would seem it's a RF issue.

Could be the RF wheel bearing.

If you think you have RF Brake Drag, pictures of both front rotors will help us. You can check for brake drag by jacking the RF. Have someone in the car apply the brake engine running, pause a second or two, and then release the brake. The wheel should rotate freely almost instantly upon release with little to no drag.
It's been a problem since I bought the car originally I didn't notice it until I got to highway speeds.

I figured an alignment would fix it, but that and new tires have not.
Dodge did a whole inspection on it and didn't find anything. I need to jack it up and take a look again. I didn't see anything or feel anything loose and my guess it might be brakes dragging so I'll try that test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update, I jacked the car up, inspected everything. Brakes arent dragging and are fine, rotors are fine and all the components are in great condition.
So my guess is alignment. I'm gonna take it to a guy that knows whats he's doing and will report back.
 

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Update, I jacked the car up, inspected everything. Brakes arent dragging and are fine, rotors are fine and all the components are in great condition.
So my guess is alignment. I'm gonna take it to a guy that knows whats he's doing and will report back.
What about the RF bearing?

While at the shop, make sure the front and rear cradle bolts are tight and torqued to 120 Ft Lbs.

Curious to see if he finds anything... the printout you posted does not support a right hand pull.

Look forward to hear...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What about the RF bearing?

While at the shop, make sure the front and rear cradle bolts are tight and torqued to 120 Ft Lbs.

Curious to see if he finds anything... the printout you posted does not support a right hand pull.

Look forward to hear...
I didn't notice and noise or anything out of place but, this guy is like the best in the metroplex and knows these cars.
 
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