i'm zero help but that does seem very strange. i have a different brand cat back with valves and have never had a check engine light from the exhaust has been a few months and few thousand miles.
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Any Borla Tech's on the site?
On Thursday I had the Borla ATAK exhaust installed. (Sounds amazing!)
However, after driving about 10-15 miles my MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) came on. I called & spoke with Steve in Tech support and he said this is not an uncommon occurrence with Mopar. He said that the shop needs to unhook the simulator sensors and wait for 30 seconds, then plug them back in, then hit the run/start button and let that go for 2 minutes before cranking the car up. He said that the computer has to learn the new exhaust.
The shop did that, and again no MIL until after 15 miles or so, then it came back on. Steve had said this may happen, and if it did it would take 20-25 more starts & driving for it to go away.
Can anyone confirm that it will go away, I've started it & driven it at least 10 times now, each time 5-10 miles. The light is constantly on, but not flashing. I just don't want this light on for the duration and am looking for any suggestions.
I do not have a code clearer, should I get one & be clearing the code after each drive?
Any support on this issue would be welcomed.
However, after driving about 10-15 miles my MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) came on. I called & spoke with Steve in Tech support and he said this is not an uncommon occurrence with Mopar. He said that the shop needs to unhook the simulator sensors and wait for 30 seconds, then plug them back in, then hit the run/start button and let that go for 2 minutes before cranking the car up. He said that the computer has to learn the new exhaust.
The shop did that, and again no MIL until after 15 miles or so, then it came back on. Steve had said this may happen, and if it did it would take 20-25 more starts & driving for it to go away.
Can anyone confirm that it will go away, I've started it & driven it at least 10 times now, each time 5-10 miles. The light is constantly on, but not flashing. I just don't want this light on for the duration and am looking for any suggestions.
I do not have a code clearer, should I get one & be clearing the code after each drive?
Any support on this issue would be welcomed.
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
Thanks, it's frustrating as hell.i'm zero help but that does seem very strange. i have a different brand cat back with valves and have never had a check engine light from the exhaust has been a few months and few thousand miles.
i'm still zero help but I did have a borla atak installed last year only a week though and I didn't drive it much it was wayyy too loud for me. but in that week fri-fri maybe 100miles? I never got a check engine light either.
is the code for the valves?
when my car was new i fought a P0472 code for months it turned out there was a quarter size hole in one of my cats, some sort of manufacturing defect that would trip the light every 500 miles or so. a new cat and it's been good to go since.
is the code for the valves?
when my car was new i fought a P0472 code for months it turned out there was a quarter size hole in one of my cats, some sort of manufacturing defect that would trip the light every 500 miles or so. a new cat and it's been good to go since.
I'm hoping that Linda can get a tech on here to help me out.i'm still zero help but I did have a borla atak installed last year only a week though and I didn't drive it much it was wayyy too loud for me. but in that week fri-fri maybe 100miles? I never got a check engine light either.
is the code for the valves?
when my car was new i fought a P0472 code for months it turned out there was a quarter size hole in one of my cats, some sort of manufacturing defect that would trip the light every 500 miles or so. a new cat and it's been good to go since.
I can't remember - does your Borla exhaust have actual valves in it or simulators?
In case you weren't aware, "The valve actuators are calibrated at every Key-ON event. The PCM sends full open and full closed commands and checks actual against commanded position. If for any reason the calibration is unsuccessful , the actuators are self-diagnosing and report fault flags to the PCM."
So as soon as you start the car, the valves cycle. They also will cycle with the car off if you unplug and plug them back in (you will hear an electronic tone when you do). I believe after a minute or so (or sooner), if they haven't cycled properly upon start-up, you will get a CEL (check engine light). But since you said you drove it for a bit, and didn't get a CEL right away, it makes me wonder if maybe the valves are cycling properly, but perhaps getting hung up once things get hot in the pipes. I dunno.
You shouldn't have to clear codes after each drive, as that just indicates the problem is still there. I have installed aftermarket exhausts on almost all of my vehicles, (including the HC), and have never heard of a car throwing a CEL because it hasn't "learned" the exhaust.
In case you weren't aware, "The valve actuators are calibrated at every Key-ON event. The PCM sends full open and full closed commands and checks actual against commanded position. If for any reason the calibration is unsuccessful , the actuators are self-diagnosing and report fault flags to the PCM."
So as soon as you start the car, the valves cycle. They also will cycle with the car off if you unplug and plug them back in (you will hear an electronic tone when you do). I believe after a minute or so (or sooner), if they haven't cycled properly upon start-up, you will get a CEL (check engine light). But since you said you drove it for a bit, and didn't get a CEL right away, it makes me wonder if maybe the valves are cycling properly, but perhaps getting hung up once things get hot in the pipes. I dunno.
You shouldn't have to clear codes after each drive, as that just indicates the problem is still there. I have installed aftermarket exhausts on almost all of my vehicles, (including the HC), and have never heard of a car throwing a CEL because it hasn't "learned" the exhaust.
I just spoke with Steve again, mine were the 1st ones with the new valves to be sent out. He's very frustrated to say the least. I've got an appt. with the local dealer on Thursday to have them look at & clear the hard MIL code. If that doesn't work Steve said to let him know, they will look up the build date & everything and send out a new set of mid pipes, as well as pay for the installation.I can't remember - does your Borla exhaust have actual valves in it or simulators?
In case you weren't aware, "The valve actuators are calibrated at every Key-ON event. The PCM sends full open and full closed commands and checks actual against commanded position. If for any reason the calibration is unsuccessful , the actuators are self-diagnosing and report fault flags to the PCM."
So as soon as you start the car, the valves cycle. They also will cycle with the car off if you unplug and plug them back in (you will hear an electronic tone when you do). I believe after a minute or so (or sooner), if they haven't cycled properly upon start-up, you will get a CEL (check engine light). But since you said you drove it for a bit, and didn't get a CEL right away, it makes me wonder if maybe the valves are cycling properly, but perhaps getting hung up once things get hot in the pipes. I dunno.
You shouldn't have to clear codes after each drive, as that just indicates the problem is still there. I have installed aftermarket exhausts on almost all of my vehicles, (including the HC), and have never heard of a car throwing a CEL because it hasn't "learned" the exhaust.
Hopefully the hard clear by MOPAR will do the trick, fingers crossed!
Hope it works out. I am sure it is frustrating.
BTW, you should buy a code reader. They aren't expensive at all, and will let you pull the codes, so even if you don't do the repair yourself, you can be informed when you take it to the service dept. Plus, you can clear the codes too.
BTW, you should buy a code reader. They aren't expensive at all, and will let you pull the codes, so even if you don't do the repair yourself, you can be informed when you take it to the service dept. Plus, you can clear the codes too.
I'll have to look into that, any one you recommend?Hope it works out. I am sure it is frustrating.
BTW, you should buy a code reader. They aren't expensive at all, and will let you pull the codes, so even if you don't do the repair yourself, you can be informed when you take it to the service dept. Plus, you can clear the codes too.
I have this one and like it.I'll have to look into that, any one you recommend?
Amazon.com: Autel AL519 AutoLink Enhanced OBD ll Scan Tool with Mode 6: Automotive
Ordered...Thank you!I have this one and like it.
Amazon.com: Autel AL519 AutoLink Enhanced OBD ll Scan Tool with Mode 6: Automotive
Okay, so here's the latest:
Took the car to the dealership today, they pulled the code P121B (which I knew already), so after looking over the Borla System the Tech reset the spring, he thinks that maybe they hadn't properly set it, and the MIL light did go out. I was able to drive it about 5 miles and no light, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
He believes that was the problem, it has to be seated properly because every time you turn the car over it checks that, and if it actuators don't function properly the light will automatically come on.
However, the last time the light didn't come on for 15 miles, so there's still a chance, but hopefully not. If it comes on again, then it turns out that it is the actuator itself, could be faulty, could have been damaged during the install. Borla doesn't supply any controllers, so the shop would have to reuse the OEM ones in the original exhaust system.
I'll have some more time tomorrow to drive it and see, I'll keep everyone posted.
Took the car to the dealership today, they pulled the code P121B (which I knew already), so after looking over the Borla System the Tech reset the spring, he thinks that maybe they hadn't properly set it, and the MIL light did go out. I was able to drive it about 5 miles and no light, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
He believes that was the problem, it has to be seated properly because every time you turn the car over it checks that, and if it actuators don't function properly the light will automatically come on.
However, the last time the light didn't come on for 15 miles, so there's still a chance, but hopefully not. If it comes on again, then it turns out that it is the actuator itself, could be faulty, could have been damaged during the install. Borla doesn't supply any controllers, so the shop would have to reuse the OEM ones in the original exhaust system.
I'll have some more time tomorrow to drive it and see, I'll keep everyone posted.
Did the problem resolve itself or did it come back?Okay, so here's the latest:
............................................................
I'll have some more time tomorrow to drive it and see, I'll keep everyone posted.
The level 3 tech at the dealer reset the spring, reconnected the actuators, put it in run for several minutes and cleared the code.Did the problem resolve itself or did it come back?
Sadly it came back, so it's 1 of 2 things I'm told.
1 - The actuator is bad, possibly broken or fractured during the original install.
And/Or
2 - The mid-pipes with the new valve simulators were faulty, even though these were the first set sent from the TN manufacturing plant after the CA R&D plant supposedly fixed them.
So, the dealer is looking for a resonator, but are under a nationwide shortage I'm told. Borla, big prips to Steve has been very helpful and apologetic. The mid-pipes are 3-4 weeks backed up at the plant, so he had the R&D department make me a set in CA from the original design, they were made yesterday and shipped today, 2nd day air.
I'll have the mid-pipes before the actuator I believe, I'm going to take it to the dealer and have them do the swap and reset, then cross my fingers that it's not the actuator. Hopefully get it done this week, early next at the latest.
I'll let everyone know the outcome.
Thanks
1. Are you talking about the "cans" at the rear of the car? If so, why is the "dealer" looking for them? I assume by dealer you mean the Dodge dealership. Why would a resonator throw a code?
2. I think it is #2
1. Are you talking about the "cans" at the rear of the car? If so, why is the "dealer" looking for them? I assume by dealer you mean the Dodge dealership. Why would a resonator throw a code?
2. I think it is #2
I think he meant to type "actuator" as opposed to resonator.
What brand other than Borla comes with valves?i'm zero help but that does seem very strange. i have a different brand cat back with valves and have never had a check engine light from the exhaust has been a few months and few thousand miles.
You are correct...thanks!I think he meant to type "actuator" as opposed to resonator.
*I did edit the post*
I meant actuators, and I too am hoping it's number 2, they'll be here soon.Thanks
1. Are you talking about the "cans" at the rear of the car? If so, why is the "dealer" looking for them? I assume by dealer you mean the Dodge dealership. Why would a resonator throw a code?
2. I think it is #2
I wonder if it could be something as simple as making certain the actuators are on the correct sides. I believe that even though they look identical, they actually can be installed on the wrong sides and are NOT interchangeable. Worth a try.
1 - 20 of 63 Posts
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