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Any Borla Tech's on the site?

14891 Views 62 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Cockeyed
On Thursday I had the Borla ATAK exhaust installed. (Sounds amazing!)

However, after driving about 10-15 miles my MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) came on. I called & spoke with Steve in Tech support and he said this is not an uncommon occurrence with Mopar. He said that the shop needs to unhook the simulator sensors and wait for 30 seconds, then plug them back in, then hit the run/start button and let that go for 2 minutes before cranking the car up. He said that the computer has to learn the new exhaust.

The shop did that, and again no MIL until after 15 miles or so, then it came back on. Steve had said this may happen, and if it did it would take 20-25 more starts & driving for it to go away.

Can anyone confirm that it will go away, I've started it & driven it at least 10 times now, each time 5-10 miles. The light is constantly on, but not flashing. I just don't want this light on for the duration and am looking for any suggestions.

I do not have a code clearer, should I get one & be clearing the code after each drive?

Any support on this issue would be welcomed.
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I can't remember - does your Borla exhaust have actual valves in it or simulators?
In case you weren't aware, "The valve actuators are calibrated at every Key-ON event. The PCM sends full open and full closed commands and checks actual against commanded position. If for any reason the calibration is unsuccessful , the actuators are self-diagnosing and report fault flags to the PCM."

So as soon as you start the car, the valves cycle. They also will cycle with the car off if you unplug and plug them back in (you will hear an electronic tone when you do). I believe after a minute or so (or sooner), if they haven't cycled properly upon start-up, you will get a CEL (check engine light). But since you said you drove it for a bit, and didn't get a CEL right away, it makes me wonder if maybe the valves are cycling properly, but perhaps getting hung up once things get hot in the pipes. I dunno.

You shouldn't have to clear codes after each drive, as that just indicates the problem is still there. I have installed aftermarket exhausts on almost all of my vehicles, (including the HC), and have never heard of a car throwing a CEL because it hasn't "learned" the exhaust.
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Hope it works out. I am sure it is frustrating.
BTW, you should buy a code reader. They aren't expensive at all, and will let you pull the codes, so even if you don't do the repair yourself, you can be informed when you take it to the service dept. Plus, you can clear the codes too.
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I'll have to look into that, any one you recommend?
I have this one and like it. Autel AL519 AutoLink Enhanced OBD ll Scan Tool with Mode 6: Automotive
I think he meant to type "actuator" as opposed to resonator.
I wonder if it could be something as simple as making certain the actuators are on the correct sides. I believe that even though they look identical, they actually can be installed on the wrong sides and are NOT interchangeable. Worth a try.
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