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Have a ~2 week old 2020 charger SP WB and got a red battery light on the dash, setup to go to the dealer Monday. I was able to start it when the light first showed up but now it won’t start, only 12.3v reading on the dash when off. I have a maintainer on there now to get the battery up to charge so I can at least avoid flat bedding it back to the dealer... 😞
 

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Just dropping an update here... was able to get it started on sat but it was obvious the alternator is either not functioning properly or not connected properly. Now having problems getting it to start even with a jump/assist. Feels like this is going to be more than just the alternator. Either bad starter and alternator, bad connections, or jacked up computer are my thoughts. Really just super happy that I get to flat bed my 3 week old 50k vehicle...😐
 

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So got a resolution here...literally right before I let the flatbed driver put it on the bed I figured I would give it one more shot. Went to put on the positive clamp and noticed that although the nut was tight the washer moved feely. I tightened it as much as I could and it started right up. Took it to the dealer and let them inspect to make sure it was good. They basically did nothing, threw some conductive gel on the post and sent me on my way. The next morning it wouldn’t start again. I took a closer look and tried to understand how it worked. Seemed the bolt needed to be pulled up by the nut which sandwiched the two cables and the fuse box connections. A closer look at the post and it was obvious the threads were marred and the nut couldn’t make it past the bad threads. I threw a few washers on there so the nut doesn’t have to go past the bad threads and no problems since. And no, am not a mechanic but I did stay at a holiday inn...
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat Widebody
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So got a resolution here...literally right before I let the flatbed driver put it on the bed I figured I would give it one more shot. Went to put on the positive clamp and noticed that although the nut was tight the washer moved feely. I tightened it as much as I could and it started right up. Took it to the dealer and let them inspect to make sure it was good. They basically did nothing, threw some conductive gel on the post and sent me on my way. The next morning it wouldn’t start again. I took a closer look and tried to understand how it worked. Seemed the bolt needed to be pulled up by the nut which sandwiched the two cables and the fuse box connections. A closer look at the post and it was obvious the threads were marred and the nut couldn’t make it past the bad threads. I threw a few washers on there so the nut doesn’t have to go past the bad threads and no problems since. And no, am not a mechanic but I did stay at a holiday inn...
You are more of a mechanic than most working at the dealerships. They should have caught that when they had it.
 

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I have similar stories. Dealers are all knuckleheads and couldn’t figure out the simplest problem. Thanks for this detailed report on the fix.
 

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Wow had the same problem on a 1994 Buick Roadmaster but it took me 5 years to find it. Would be parked and not start, wait a few minutes and it would then start. Or when driving all electric power would go out for an instant, reset the radio/clock and the lights would blink. Slight difference was the factory had used the wrong nut on stud and it did not tighten all the way down, cable appeared tight.. Good troubleshooting on your part!
 
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