beadlock or not to beadlock
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Tires will turn in non bead lock wheels.
Is it needed, likely not really needed.
Does it hurt to have them, no.
Is it needed, likely not really needed.
Does it hurt to have them, no.
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578 Posts
With beadlocks, I can mount my own tires but still have to get them balanced, so I do save a few dollars there (just a fringe benefit). Beadlocks are heavier. On my bravados which are not beadlocked the tire moves about an 1/8" or so every pass. You aren't supposed to put screws in wheels with radial tires, so that's not an option with the MT Rs. Maybe the machined lip wheels that aren't beadlocked would work well, too, I don't know. After about 5 days of racing, on my bravados the tire has moved about 5 inches, and that was about 20 runs or so. I always mark the wheel and tire with a chalk marker and then remark the tire again every time out. Does seem like eventually you'd need to get them balanced again since the tire has moved in relation to the wheel.
I would suggest going with the machined lip wheel as it would be simpler, if you are just looking for something that works well but don't want to mount the tires yourself or re-torque the beadlock bolts, which I have to do each time out.
I would suggest going with the machined lip wheel as it would be simpler, if you are just looking for something that works well but don't want to mount the tires yourself or re-torque the beadlock bolts, which I have to do each time out.
That's the info I was looking for! What kind of power are you putting down? I know I've seen videos of demons in the 9's running non beadlocks but I'm sure they have to be spinning some
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578 Posts
Well, I have the 2.4 stock blower, 2.85 pulley and spacer plates, etc., and so it should be around 800 at the crank (basically redeye power), but I race at 5500 DA, so I lose about 2.5 pounds of boost or so. So I would guess that at the track it's maybe 650 to the tire. I have never had the car dynoed. I've compared my 1/8 times with some on here who are running the 1/4 and it's about a 10.70 or in the 10.60s if I were on a 1/4 mile track at 5500 DA. And, I am just now getting the car to hook up, so I think on a really good track the tires might move a 1/2" on every pass. Sometimes they move 1/4" or more if I really hook hard. With my bravados I was running 1.60-1.65 60' so pretty soft 60s.
Oh man I guess I just need to pony up and pay for bealocks I'm pushing 860 to the wheels at sea-level but I race at about 6500 to 8000 DA, I think I'm gonna borrow some non beadlocks just to try they seem to work pretty good on my friends red eye but we've never marked them, thanks a ton for all the info I appreciate it for sure!
I don't think bead locks are needed at alI. I'm at 850+ rwhp and race weekly. The tires will move on the rim for a bit but they will eventually seat and quit moving on the rim. A few of us locally run balancing beads, we don't have bead locks and don't balance our tires when mounting. With the beads no issues with balance as the tires move around until they seat, they run at smooth as glass at 140+ trap speeds. 60' times are not affected by the tire movement on the rim, we cut lot's of 1.40 60's with the tires moving 2-3" after freshly mounted. Same 60's after they seat and quit moving. We mark our tires every time at the track out of curiosity. They seem to quit moving on the rim after 10 or so passes. Tires used are Hoosier Drag Bracket Radials and MT ET Street R. Wheels on the cars we run - JMS and Forgestar DB5.
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