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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I plan on taking my 2019 Challenger Redeye Widebody to the track 4/15/21. 1/4 mile track. It is 100% stock, with the OEM all season tires. I kinda think I want to just foot brake it, maybe 1400-1500 rpm, but not sure for the best modes. As for the burn out, heating the tires? Line lock and just leave in Drive for a about 5-10 seconds? But, as far as the drive modes....not sure what will get me hooked up the best? Just leave it in Drive, and?
Thanks in advance, Joe
 

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I plan on taking my 2019 Challenger Redeye Widebody to the track 4/15/21. 1/4 mile track. It is 100% stock, with the OEM all season tires. I kinda think I want to just foot brake it, maybe 1400-1500 rpm, but not sure for the best modes. As for the burn out, heating the tires? Line lock and just leave in Drive for a about 5-10 seconds? But, as far as the drive modes....not sure what will get me hooked up the best? Just leave it in Drive, and?
Thanks in advance, Joe
 

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As TNRedeye stated not the best with all seasons.
You will need a bunch of practice at leaving gently. You probably want to accelerate gentle enough so that you are on the floor after the 1-2 shift.
DO NOT turn off traction control with the SRT button. Leave traction in Sport so it will spin but the stability control is still on. This won't save you but it will slow down drama enough to help you if you get crossed up a bit.
Unlike some that is how I set my car. Thankfully I do because more than once someone dropped some fluid on the track that I was the first to find. I am not sure all of those would have gone as well they did with everything off.
 

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I recently went to the track with mine and realized by watching another redeye that it would just piss me off to try and take it down the strip on the stock tires. The ET will frustrate you. And like mentioned above run it in Sport Traction control. It's quiet dangerous/hairy to run it on the stock tires down the strip. I ordered a set of demon/SS rear wheels and an MT Street R 305-45-18. The best rear setup is the Weld 17x10(carlyle racing) and the MT Street R in 315-50-17 but that's quiet a bit more expensive and I like the look of the Demon wheel.
 

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Yeah, I think you're just wasting time, and tires, on ANY all season tire. Secondly, I'd leave the TC on until maybe 3rd? These TC are pretty loose as it is so even this may not help. The Cadillac V's would dead hook from the dig with the TC on, then we'd turn it off in 3rd/4th, to get full power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
MoparJim, are you running the stock all season tires these Redeye’s come with from the factory? I’m a little bit leery of putting drag radials or slicks on it without some sort of rear dif brace, and possibly upgraded drive shaft/half shafts. I keep seeing posts of guys scattering their diffs and breaking drive shafts.
 

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MoparJim, are you running the stock all season tires these Redeye’s come with from the factory? I’m a little bit leery of putting drag radials or slicks on it without some sort of rear dif brace, and possibly upgraded drive shaft/half shafts. I keep seeing posts of guys scattering their diffs and breaking drive shafts.
Good point. I do have a Per4ormance DIRS brace and front side diff section race brace from them. I think our axles and driveshaft are good for slicks under 1000 HP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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My suggestion is 1200 rpm launch, or the lowest that loads the drivetrain, which is about that, I think. For the burnout, put the trans in manual shift (pull the shifter to the side, toward you) then into 2nd gear and do your burnout. I would count one one thousand, two one thousand and then disengage the line lock and drive out of it. Put it back in drive and then stage.

Also, as someone mentioned above. you leave on the last yellow, not the green light. And courtesy stage, which means that when you stage just light the first yellow until the person you are racing lights the first yellow and then bump into the second yellow and wait for the other car, and then you are good to go. I usually let the other car prestage first and then I just roll through the first yellow and to the second one. Before your run watch some other cars and also note where the box for the staging beams is.

Also, if you have stock front tires, you should drive around the waterbox and then back into the box so that you don't have water on your front tires. Run maybe 25 psi in the rears???? 50 psi or whatever the max is in the fronts.

One thing I do is get my rpms set before I even stage. So, if I am launching at 1200 I hold the throttle there and then just let off the break, etc., to get staged. There's just not time once staged to set your rpms set. At least that's my experience.

Have fun! It's going to be quite a challenge on a street tire. You will improve a lot from your first run to your last. Be safe. If the car loses traction bad or something goes wrong, just get out of the throttle immediately, and cruise the rest of the way, and get ready for your next run.

My avatar pic is from a three second burnout ha ha
 

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Others said it. Get tires. Those all seasons will get you sideways so fast your head will spin. I was on track last night. Here's my results with just tires on a stock redeye.

So I ran my best time last night at PBIR. SOOOO pumped. 10.82 in the 1/4 with a 1.54 60ft on stock 20" wheels with nitto nt555rII.

Stock 2020 redeye widebody challenger with 3:09 rear end.

Weather: 73ish degrees in South florida. Not sure of DA

SETTINGS: CUSTOM: TRANS - TRACK, TRACTION - OFF (hold traction button for 10 seconds), STEERING - TRACK, SUSPENSION - STREET

BURNOUT: 4 SECONDS IN DRIVE LETTING TRANS SHIFT THROUGH BURNOUT ON ITS OWN USING LINE LOCK

LAUNCH CONTROL: NOPE. NO RPM PRELOAD AT ALL, JUST HAMMER THE HAS ON GREEN

this was my 15th or so pass since I've owned the car. Couldn't get better than 11.1 because I was always using launch control. Was never able to hook until now. Also, if you don't fully turn off traction control you still get some traction modulation and lots of wheel hop.

I hope this helps anyone looking to break into the 10s on stock power with stock wheels. This was my last pass on stock power. Car gets dropped off soon for a whole slew of mods. Should be at close to 1000whp when done.
 

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If you leave traction in Sport mode you will not have any traction control on unless the car see's yaw. If the car is straight there is no nanny. If you preload the driveline there will be less of a chance of wheel hop as you won't be shocking the driveline.
I did mention earlier to NOT turn off traction control with the SRT button. Didn't I?
 

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I agree with the last couple of posts. I've seen a number of high powered cars, hellcats, mustangs, camaros, show up at the track on street tires and run bad times. It can be frustrating. Plus, there's the safety issue.

At minimum, I would run 18" bravado wheels and MT ET Street SS drag radials, 305-40-18 (3482). You need to check the bravados or whatever wheel you use, I guess, since you have a 2019 and I have a 2016.

Run 16-22 pounds in them or the highest psi that you still have good traction with. I think this is the best compromise tire, for someone who wants a very stable tire to drive to the track with and a tire that works well. I used this all last year, and it's not as good as the ET Street R, but it was WAY better than a street tire would be. I could only manage 1.70 or so 60' times with it, on a moderately prepped track, but that's way better than what it would be on a street tire (I am betting 2.0). When my tires were new, the first 25 passes or so, the car has dead on consistent.

If you don't mind changing wheels at the track, run the Et Street R but run enough PSI that you get some controlled wheel spin so you don't scatter your driveline across the track.
 

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My dad had a 2016 SRT Charger and we took it to the street legal drag night, aired the stock tires down (tires/car had maybe 5,000 miles), and the best he managed in the 1/8 mile at 5500 DA was an 8.98. Can't remember what the 60' was, but it was BAD.
 
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