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2015 SRT Hellcat M6 and 2016 SRT Hellcat A8
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have got a 2015 Hellcat that was seized by our police force from a chop shop. The brakes (amoung other easily removed parts) were removed. I have bought replacement brakes, and need some guidance on bleeding the system on the Hellcat

TIA for your help
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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2,466 Posts
Do a quick search. Plenty of info.
 

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2015 SRT Hellcat M6 and 2016 SRT Hellcat A8
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56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pressure bleeder, start at the farthest, to the closest. If you have a compressor, you can just use one of these for the exact car you have.
Thanks for that. Does this also bleed the abs pump and valve manifold at the same time. Or is there a separate procedure for the abs pump and valve manifold?

The reason I'm asking, is that the brake lines were cut and have been open for at least a year. I'm sure the fluid will have all drained out
 

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2015 Charger SRT Hellcat
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It was the home page. Did you mean the plastic bottle 2? gallon thing? Yes, w/o a compressor, great.
yes it was a home page…find the tools that suite your need and go from there….they will have everything you need. I personally have this set up

0100 European Power Bleeder except I have the “black label” which is the aluminum caps vs plastic…I have a few different caps for various applications and I use their catch cans

 

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2020 Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack.
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3,225 Posts
I have got a 2015 Hellcat that was seized by our police force from a chop shop. The brakes (amoung other easily removed parts) were removed. I have bought replacement brakes, and need some guidance on bleeding the system on the Hellcat

TIA for your help
Don't know about the Hellcat but I have the service manual for another brand of car and in the case of a replacement of the ABS pump is done the brakes are bleed as usual.

A pressure bleeder means you can do the job without a helper. Just don't dial in too much pressure. With another car the pressure limit was 21psi but I stayed down around 15psi.

You just go around the vehicle starting with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder, just like the usual bleeding procedure.

After you finish bleeding the brake system lines and calipers then you bleed the ABS unit. You'll need an OBD2 scan tool that can activate the pump to cycle fluid through the pump. As when bleeding the calipers you need to keep a close eye on the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir to avoid it running low on fluid. If it does you have to bleed the brake system again.

At least the above is for one car I owned. I believe it would apply to the Hellcat but I can't say that with 100% certainty. If you can't get your hands on the Hellcat service manual with the procedure spelled out then you need to find a place that knows how to bleed the brakes and knows how to bleed them with the lines and ABS pump starting out dry.
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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So, you bleed the four calipers, then ABS last? What about on M6, when in the sequence would you bleed the clutch?
I would think to do the ABS first, since doesn't it feed into the calipers?
 

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2015 SRT Hellcat M6 and 2016 SRT Hellcat A8
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Doesn't sound like you have the experience or tools to work on a critical safety item like brakes. I would take it to a shop/dealer that knows what they're doing
If 40 years wrenching on cars isn't enough experience, then you are correct.

I was asking for info specific to the Hellcat as until recently I have been exclusively working on Fords, which others have kindly offered without judgement

I realise you had good intentions, but please resist making assumptions about others skill level
 

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2021 Charger HC Redeye
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132 Posts
Don't be afraid to run a good amount of new brake fluid thru those lines. Brake fluid attracts moisture, so some light rust might be somewhere in the lines. But brake fluid eats rust pretty good. Maybe do a light bleed on them again after being driven 1000 miles or so. Just a stupid precaution that I used to do when rebuilding theft recoveries.
 

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2015 SRT Hellcat M6 and 2016 SRT Hellcat A8
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Don't be afraid to run a good amount of new brake fluid thru those lines. Brake fluid attracts moisture, so some light rust might be somewhere in the lines. But brake fluid eats rust pretty good. Maybe do a light bleed on them again after being driven 1000 miles or so. Just a stupid precaution that I used to do when rebuilding theft recoveries.
Absolutely. I have a litre (quart) of brake fluid to put through. I want to be 100% sure that all moisture is eliminated. If I don't get a solid pedal after that, it will be off to the brake shop to cycle the abs pump and valve manifold
 

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2015 Charger SRT Hellcat
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Don't be afraid to run a good amount of new brake fluid thru those lines. Brake fluid attracts moisture, so some light rust might be somewhere in the lines. But brake fluid eats rust pretty good. Maybe do a light bleed on them again after being driven 1000 miles or so. Just a stupid precaution that I used to do when rebuilding theft recoveries.
Which is why I use different colors each time. Then you know when the new stuff is there. Did I read correctly that you can skip the ABS, cycle it a few times on a gravel road (or snow) after the first bleed, then bleed again (which I always do) and all is good?
 

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2020 Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack.
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So, you bleed the four calipers, then ABS last? What about on M6, when in the sequence would you bleed the clutch?
I would think to do the ABS first, since doesn't it feed into the calipers?
The factory manual I referred to called for in the case the ABS had to be replaced of bleedng the brakes as usual then the ABS after. Sure this is for another make/model of car. There is the possibility this is just the wrong way to do the Dodge brakes/ABS.

My advice would be to in order to avoid possibly doing the job wrong to get access to a factory service manual to know what Dodge calls for.

My (2nd hand) info is the clutch hydraulic system is self bleeding. But it can take lots ( have read the number is "hundreds" of pedal down/up cycles to bleed the system. But again I would refer you to the factory service manual. Could be in the case of starting out with new and empty/dry hydraulic lines there is something else called for to ensure the clutch hydraulic system is properly bled and done in such a way there is no risk of damage to the hydraulic cylinder(s) of the system which might initially be subject to operation with insufficient hydraulic fluid present.
 
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