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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys

I just dropped off my cat at the dealer as I have been getting terrible squeaking (I know it’s supposed to be normal for Brembos) but super loud. They took a look and said that the rotors and pads need replacing. The car is a 2016 and only has 15,500 miles on it. I purchased it from someone who traded it in with 3,000 miles and it was a “garage queen” (it still is with me as well).

Im dumbfounded at how the rotors can be shot already at 15k. Is that something that happens with these cars? I don’t drive it hard and never tracked it.

Also, I paid for the extended warranty on the car when I bought it, which I thought covered if the car had something like a part go out well before it’s supposed to, I can bring it to any dodge dealership and they would fix it. Do you think this should be covered since it’s failed at 15k miles?

Any help is much appreciated as I’m getting ready to head back down there to see what they are saying.

Thanks!
 

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21 Challenger Redeye, 21 Trackhawk
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There are a few variables in this equation but let's start with the easy one first.
No warranty is going to cover brakes.
Typically Brembo's on this car should be right around 30,000 miles but would very greatly on driving habits obviously.
15000 miles is possible but it is not likely.
So on to the variables.
Is the dealership trustworthy?
I would definitely want to look at the brakes to verify they're not trying to pull a fast one.
Is there a mechanical issue that caused the brakes to wear abnormally fast?
Which brakes and rotors actually need to be replaced front rear or both?
I would want to see if there was uneven wear from the passenger side to the driver side or inboard pad to the outboard pad.
If there are no mechanical issues and the dealership is on the level and you do actually need new pads and rotors at 15,000 miles well.....
I would definitely be looking at other parts of the car cuz I would be thinking maybe she wasn't such a garage Queen after all, maybe she was rode very hard and put away wet on more than one occasion.

On a another note changing Brembo pads and rotors is very easy to do.
On the trackhawk I believe the dealership wanted $4,000 to replace all four sets of pads and rotors.
I purchased the Brembo pads and rotors and installed them myself on a Saturday for a total cost of about $800.
 

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They wanted to change both front rotors out when I got a groove in one. I never found the crack they mentioned but did see the gap in the pad was full of crap that was wearing on the rotor. The OEM rotors are fairly expensive, I believe my dealership wanted $5K to change out both front rotors and all 4 pads. Depending on your driving style you can get quality rotors and pads for the front and back for around $1K. They aren't difficult to install but you'll want a caliper spreader to make it easier than trying to push them back in by hand, lesson learned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I’m back and they gave me a quote for FRONT brakes and rotors for $3,000. The part that is strange is that the sound is coming from the BACK brakes. The service tech even said he heard them coming from the back and said so in his notes. So not sure why they gave me this quote for fronts?
I asked the 19 yr old girl working at the front to have the tech called me as she didn’t know what was going on. I wanted to see the evidence of the rotors being bad . M
Here is the paperwork with quote they gave me.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Now they have just called me back (19 yr old girl working the front) to tell me that the technician must have put the wrong code in the system for the front brakes. She said my fronts are fine, but the backs are at a 5/10 on pads and the rotors are “glazing”. Does anyone know what glazing means? I asked her if he had mil spec numbers she said no. So not sure what that means?
 

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Now they have just called me back (19 yr old girl working the front) to tell me that the technician must have put the wrong code in the system for the front brakes. She said my fronts are fine, but the backs are at a 5/10 on pads and the rotors are “glazing”. Does anyone know what glazing means? I asked her if he had mil spec numbers she said no. So not sure what that means?
In short, glazing generally occurs when the brakes get too hot and some of the pad transfers onto the surface of the rotor, causing flat spots. This can produce a loud squealing. At some point, the brakes were likely overused (hard brake from high speed, a hard panic brake, etc.) and thus glazed the rotor. On most normal cars, you can pull the rotor and resurface it. The SRT rotors are considered "un-turnable" in that they're very thin and they don't have much material to grind away to resurface them.

Dealerships, by and large, won't turn your rotors. However, you can go to a brake shop and they may be able to clean them up as they aren't bound by Dodge's rotor servicing guidelines. I would do this and see if a shop can't turn your rear rotors, just a little to remove the glazing. At worst, they won't be able to and you can pay them to do the rear rotors for cheaper than a dealership's labor cost.
 

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(Edit, Xylander post beat me to it)
So it sounds like they want $3,000 to replace your rear brake pads and rotors which is expensive even for a dealership.
Glazing is caused when braking temperatures exceed the limits of the pad material. Glazing results in excessive stopping distances, and it can happen without the driver’s knowledge.
The pad material hardens and forms a glassy, smooth pad surface.
The only fix for glazed brakes is replacing the pads and the rotors.
My advice is find a place where you can buy genuine Brembo pads and rotors and do it yourself. It's really easy, however if you live somewhere that doesn't allow working on cars or you're not comfortable with it find a reputable mechanic.
If you have the parts reputable mechanic will probably do it for a few hundred bucks.
Also now would be a great time to change out the brake fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the replies on the glazing, and suggestions on where to go from here.

I would do the job myself, but I don’t have a jack or the tools to do it properly. So I don’t mind paying someone to do it for me. I was thinking of asking like Les Schwab, or another local brake shop. But wouldn’t they generally take issue with me asking them to put on new parts I ordered? Or are most shops open to that in your experience?

I keep hearing about the Z26 pads which I’ll probably go for since they don’t put out a bunch of brake dust. But what about the replacement rotors? Should I choose another brand? Or stick with Brembo? I don’t want to end up right back in the same situation im in now a year or two down the road (length of time I’ve had the vehicle).

Thank you to all, this forum has been very helpful!
 

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Thanks for the replies on the glazing, and suggestions on where to go from here.

I would do the job myself, but I don’t have a jack or the tools to do it properly. So I don’t mind paying someone to do it for me. I was thinking of asking like Les Schwab, or another local brake shop. But wouldn’t they generally take issue with me asking them to put on new parts I ordered? Or are most shops open to that in your experience?

I keep hearing about the Z26 pads which I’ll probably go for since they don’t put out a bunch of brake dust. But what about the replacement rotors? Should I choose another brand? Or stick with Brembo? I don’t want to end up right back in the same situation im in now a year or two down the road (length of time I’ve had the vehicle).

Thank you to all, this forum has been very helpful!
Seriously, go to a brake shop and see if they can turn them. It might cost you $100 if they can and you'll get another 10-20k miles out of it if so. The rear rotors should wear far less than the fronts, so you'll have more material on those rotors to work with.
 

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Unfortunately most of those questions are out of my wheelhouse LOL.
It seems like most of the chain type brake places along with transmission places and oil changed places seem to be a hub to take advantage of people so I typically try to steer clear of those types of places.
Any decent mechanic can change the brakes on these cars, they are easy to do and I would think that a decent one would not have issue with you bringing in the parts.
As far as the aftermarket pads and rotors, I'm sorry I am not familiar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Seriously, go to a brake shop and see if they can turn them. It might cost you $100 if they can and you'll get another 10-20k miles out of it if so. The rear rotors should wear far less than the fronts, so you'll have more material on those rotors to work with.
This makes a lot of sense. I’ll try to see if I can find a shop to take it to this week. Hopefully they can get them turned and I can just get some new pads on there as well. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have to ask though, if the rears are the only ones glazed...

Was somebody foot braking and doing burnouts? Inquiring minds wanna know ;)
I sure wasn’t. But hard to say how the previous owner drove the 2.8k miles he put on it before trading it in. He had it from 2016-2020 when I got it, and it only had the less than 3k miles on it when I got the keys. I was under the impression that he babied it, but I’m starting to think that’s was just a story. A little back story, apparently he was the son of the Chevrolet dealership owner in town. So probably a spoiled shit who did burnouts on it.
 

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If any car can handle a burn out, the Hellcat sure can.
This is just my OCD talking but if you are planning on keeping the car maybe this would be a good time to think about a differential fluid change along with maybe looking at the transmission fluid and little things like that to see how much or how little the car was actually babied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
If any car can handle a burn out, the Hellcat sure can.
This is just my OCD talking but if you are planning on keeping the car maybe this would be a good time to think about a differential fluid change along with maybe looking at the transmission fluid and little things like that to see how much or how little the car was actually babied.
I am starting to think this is a good idea! The illusion of this $hit stick “babying the car” (as I have), has come crashing down. Lol.

Its probably best that I start doing a deeper inspection, or just trade up for a new HC. Which seems very appealing right about now.
 

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The original thickness of the 6-piston rotors was 34 mm, buy a caliper to measure them now and see where you're at, looking for rotors in good condition and above 32 mm.

With the reduction in car sales dealers are looking for ways to make extra money, not saying they're flat out trying to rip you off but need to verify what they are saying.


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Brake pads should last 20-30k miles and rotors 50-75k miles. Definitely premature, especially the rotors.
 
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