[Alain23]

As the title states boys. I snapped one of the studs while removing my exhaust to do a 3.90 diff swap on my M6 Challenger.

two questions.

1- does anyone know if those studs are pressed in or screwed in?

2- if pressed in, anyone have any pointers on how to press it out WITHOUT taking the header off the car?


I think they are screwed in because the end of the stud has what looks like and external torx end on it which I assume is there to aid in install and removal of the stud.

I appreciate any help you guys can give me.

 

[HellishCat]

I broke the end off as well. They are screwed in.

 

[Alain23]

I broke the end off as well. They are screwed in.

How did you get yours out?

Im going to soak it for a couple of days with penetrating oil and let it sit. I won’t be able to work on it again till Monday. I hope vise grips will suffice, I don’t like messing with fire/heat.

 

[HellishCat]

How did you get yours out?

Im going to soak it for a couple of days with penetrating oil and let it sit. I won’t be able to work on it again till Monday. I hope vise grips will suffice, I don’t like messing with fire/heat.

You can get to the other side or do the old, 2 nuts super tight against one another. I'll post a photo of the 2 extras I bought.

 

[GreenMachine15]

Heat!
Use heat on it and it will thread right out.
Use a pipe wrench or vice grips.

 

[Alain23]

You can get to the other side or do the old, 2 nuts super tight against one another. I'll post a photo of the 2 extras I bought.

I don’t think I have enough thread visible to use the two nut method……that would be ideal if I could do that.

Heat!
Use heat on it and it will thread right out.
Use a pipe wrench or vice grips.

where exactly should I apply the heat? To the threaded portion ?

 

[GreenMachine15]

On the header flange around the stud

 

[GreenMachine15]

Get it really hot, a pipe wrench would be ideal, have it sized correctly prior to heating, then turn it out.
If you do it cold, it will likely break off flush at the flange and then you will be drilling and using an easy out.....

 

[Frosty]

Agreed on heat. Just be real careful with the torch.

I'd say if you have a welder weld a nut to the end of the bolt but assuming you don't or a friend doesn't thus the heat suggestions.

 

[GreenMachine15]

I just took mine apart tonight to put on 2" headers, 3.5" xpipe, and true 3" exhaust.

 

[GreenMachine15]

Agreed on heat. Just be real careful with the torch.

I'd say if you have a welder weld a nut to the end of the bolt but assuming you don't or a friend doesn't thus the heat suggestions.

I would just heat it and pipe wrench it. Welding a nut on would be a waste of time. Use map gas, don't be shooting a 2ft orange flame at it or you will burn your car down.

 

[dragrcr]

As the title states boys. I snapped one of the studs while removing my exhaust to do a 3.90 diff swap on my M6 Challenger.

two questions.

1- does anyone know if those studs are pressed in or screwed in?

2- if pressed in, anyone have any pointers on how to press it out WITHOUT taking the header off the car?


I think they are screwed in because the end of the stud has what looks like and external torx end on it which I assume is there to aid in install and removal of the stud. View attachment 575422 View attachment 575422

I appreciate any help you guys can give me.

Smack it right on the end with a hammer real hard. That will shock it and loosten it. Then grab it with channel locks and see if it will turn. Or Vise grips. I also have ground 2 flats on the end of something like that and used a cresent wrench. Or you can weld a nut on the end and then go at it while it is still hot etc etc........Penitrating oil and heat might help but likely are not needed.

You can also slot it with a cut off tool or dremmel tool and use a large screwdriver. Some have a square shank and you can use an adjustable wrench to drive the screwdriver.

 

[Himmelkat]

If the thermal angle is where you're headed, Some ideas:
To make it expand nicely, heat the stud up with a torch. Let it cool down, then heat the flange up with a torch while you keep applying ice or a flow of cooling water to the stud. Tap on the stud sharply but with a small, light wrench or little hammer in any direction every so often to remind it to get a divorce from the flange. It should thread out okay after that, especially if you put some Liquid Wrench on the thread/flange interface from both sides and let it work its way in, preferably overnight.

Now, if you have access to liquid nitrogen, your job is even easier. Freeze that stud and then dunk the area in some hot water. That should cause the divorce you are after.

If the situation were truly desperate, you could drill all the way through the stud with a small drill bit, then shoot liquid nitrogen through that and it would contract that stud quite well. Let it warm to not-injury-level cool and wrench/Vice Grips/w/e it out of there.

 

[GreenMachine15]

 

[Alain23]

I would just heat it and pipe wrench it. Welding a nut on would be a waste of time. Use map gas, don't be shooting a 2ft orange flame at it or you will burn your car down.

I didn't know there was a pipe wrench small enough to grab a stud this size?!?! I might have to add that to my arsenal of tools. I"m gonna try removing it tomorrow.

If the thermal angle is where you're headed, Some ideas:
To make it expand nicely, heat the stud up with a torch. Let it cool down, then heat the flange up with a torch while you keep applying ice or a flow of cooling water to the stud. Tap on the stud sharply but with a small, light wrench or little hammer in any direction every so often to remind it to get a divorce from the flange. It should thread out okay after that, especially if you put some Liquid Wrench on the thread/flange interface from both sides and let it work its way in, preferably overnight.

Now, if you have access to liquid nitrogen, your job is even easier. Freeze that stud and then dunk the area in some hot water. That should cause the divorce you are after.

If the situation were truly desperate, you could drill all the way through the stud with a small drill bit, then shoot liquid nitrogen through that and it would contract that stud quite well. Let it warm to not-injury-level cool and wrench/Vice Grips/w/e it out of there.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm all out of liquid nitrogen.

 

[HellishCat]

How did you get yours out?

Im going to soak it for a couple of days with penetrating oil and let it sit. I won’t be able to work on it again till Monday. I hope vise grips will suffice, I don’t like messing with fire/heat.

Sorry dude. Life happened.

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Try on if these

 

[Alain23]

View attachment 575554
Sorry dude. Life happened.

all good brother. I got those as well as new nuts from the dealership.

Try on if these


View attachment 575574

thank you, this is going to be my next option if using two jam nuts locked against each other to remove the stud does not work.

 

[GreenMachine15]

This is alot of talk about a 2 minute job lol

 

[HellishCat]

This is alot of talk about a 2 minute job lol

Someone wake up on the wrong side of the bed?