[630]

So, I am reading the owners manual for my Hellcat and it has detailed info about burnishing your brakes on page 269 and 270. I somewhat get it, but would love advice from some of the racing pros on the forum. I want to make sure I do it right. Please share your tips...

 

[Slim Shady]

So, I am reading the owners manual for my Hellcat and it has detailed info about burnishing your brakes on page 269 and 270. I somewhat get it, but would love advice from some of the racing pros on the forum. I want to make sure I do it right. Please share your tips...

Tammie, read these papers and you will be the new brake expert.

Bed-In Theory


Slim

 

[ChallengerDad]

From Zeckhausen:

Bedding allows your brakes to reach their full potential. Until they are bedded, brakes simply do not work as well as they can. If you've installed a big brake kit, changed pads and rotors, or even purchased a new car, you should set aside time to bed the brakes per the instructions below. Proper bedding improves pedal feel, reduces or eliminates brake squeal, prevents (and often cures) brake judder, reduces brake dust, and extends the life of pads and rotors. For more details on the theory of bedding, please refer to this article: Pad and Rotor Bed-In Theory, Definitions and Procedures

Caution: Immediately after installing new pads, rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brakes will result in very little braking power. Gently use the brakes a few times at low speed to build up some grip before blasting down the road at high speed. Otherwise, you may be in for a nasty surprise the first time you hit the brakes at 60 mph.

If you just installed rotors with zinc plating or if the rotors have an anti-corrosion phosphate coating, you should postpone bedding until normal driving has allowed your pads to polish the rotors clean and removed all traces of the plating or coating. If your new brake rotors have an oily anti-corrosion coating, clean this off thoroughly with brake cleaning spray and/or hot soapy water before installation.

Read and understand these instructions completely before starting. If you have questions, give us a call or email. Do not substitute higher speeds for the 60mph called for. The heat in brakes goes up exponentially as you increase the speed from which you brake. Repeated stops from 80 or 90mph with street pads will overheat the brakes and you may end up having to replace pads and rotors.

When following these instructions, avoid other vehicles. Bedding is best done when traffic is light, as other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and may respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. A police officer will probably not sympathize when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! Zeckhausen Racing does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions. Use common sense!

1. From 60mph, gently apply the brakes a couple of times to bring them up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
2. Make eight to ten near-stops from 60mph to about 20 mph. Do it HARD by pressing the brakes firmly, but do not lock the wheels or engage ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph, then apply the brakes again. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! If you stop completely, with your foot on the brake pedal, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors, which could lead to vibration and uneven braking.
3. The brakes may begin to fade after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A strong smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
4. After the last near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and cruise for a few minutes, using the brakes as little as possible to allow them to cool down. Try not to become trapped in traffic or come to a complete stop while the brakes are still hot.
5. If full race pads, such as Hawk DTC-70 or Performance Friction PFC11 are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 20 mph.

After the break-in cycle, there should be a slight blue tint and a light gray film on each rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.

After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. This is especially true if you have installed new pads on old rotors, since the pads need some usage to conform to the rotor wear pattern. If you've just installed a big brake kit, pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second bedding cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer. If necessary, bleed the brakes to improve pedal firmness.

 

[630]

Sorry to be naive about some of this...when I get my baby and I am washing and doing the clay bar and polishing, do I need to get brake cleaner and clean my rotors? When I take my car in for oil change after 500 mile break in, should I have them do anything with the brakes? I noticed it mentioned possibly bleeding the brakes after second bedding cycle. Thanks for the info. It is a little clearer than what is in the manual.

 

[ChallengerDad]

Sorry to be naive about some of this...when I get my baby and I am washing and doing the clay bar and polishing, do I need to get brake cleaner and clean my rotors? When I take my car in for oil change after 500 mile break in, should I have them do anything with the brakes? I noticed it mentioned possibly bleeding the brakes after second bedding cycle. Thanks for the info. It is a little clearer than what is in the manual.

Bedding the brakes is actually a process of bonding a layer of brake pad material to the rotors using heat-cycles - similar to the process of "tempering" metal. You shouldn't need to use brake clean. The rotors and pads are all new, and there should be almost no "contaminants" on the rotors. Every time you use the brakes, the pads scrub/clean the rotors. This includes the loading and unloading of the car from the New Car Carrier, and any "movement" of the car in the lot or on the road.
Bleeding the brakes should only be necessary if you change out the calipers.
You (or your technician) shouldn't need to do anything to the brakes at your 500 mile service.

 

[630]

Bedding the brakes is actually a process of bonding a layer of brake pad material to the rotors. It's similar to the process of "tempering" metal. You shouldn't need to use brake clean. The rotors and pads are all new, and there should be almost no "contaminants" on the rotors. Every time you use the brakes, the pads scrub/clean the rotors. This includes the loading and unloading of the car from the New Car Carrier, and any "movement" of the car in the lot or on the road.
Bleeding the brakes should only be necessary if you change out the calipers.
You (or your technician) shouldn't need to do anything to the brakes at your 500 mile service.

Thank you so much. I really appreciate the info!

 

[The Dude]

Essentially don't sweat it Tammie they are huge ham hocks!
Daily driving is fine just don't slam on the brakes repetitively for a while at least. No diving corners just yet

Brake flush after 20k you be fine!

 

[630]

Essentially don't sweat it Tammie they are huge ham hocks!
Daily driving is fine just don't slam on the brakes repetitively for a while at least. No diving corners just yet

Brake flush after 20k you be fine!

Awesome! Thanks .

 

[630]

Tammie, read these papers and you will be the new brake expert.

Bed-In Theory


Slim

Thanks Slim Shady! The info is pretty consistent and really clarifies things for me. I appreciate this info. I am ready to do it right. I JUST NEED THE DARN CAR TO DO IT! LOL

 

[The Dude]

Thanks Slim Shady! The info is pretty consistent and really clarifies things for me. I appreciate this info. I am ready to do it right. I JUST NEED THE DARN CAR TO DO IT! LOL

True dat Girl!! Any news or updates??

 

[630]

True dat Girl!! Any news or updates??

No...I know I am gonna be tearing up some shizzy by turkey day so, anytime before that is gravy! Lol...I feel they are gonna release the cats soon! My baby just needs to hitch a train west!!

 

[RoadwarriorCA]

Sorry to be naive about some of this...when I get my baby and I am washing and doing the clay bar and polishing, do I need to get brake cleaner and clean my rotors? When I take my car in for oil change after 500 mile break in, should I have them do anything with the brakes? I noticed it mentioned possibly bleeding the brakes after second bedding cycle. Thanks for the info. It is a little clearer than what is in the manual.

Oh Tam-Tam...glad your reading the manual.....I knew there was a little nerdette in you.........

 

[345]

How do I down load a copy of the owners manual?

 

[70Cuda]

How do I down load a copy of the owners manual?

x2

 

[Ricci Cavallaro]

Where are you getting a owners manual for the Hellcat????

 

[630]

Oh Tam-Tam...glad your reading the manual.....I knew there was a little nerdette in you.........

Not only am I reading it, I have notes and highlights! I am a HUGE geek for muscle cars. I always want to learn and know more!!

 

[630]

Where are you getting a owners manual for the Hellcat????

Dodge.com, at the bottom of the home page is owners manual and you can get the one for SRT Challenger and it includes the Hellcat.

 

[630]

x2

Sorry, I didn't see this when I responded. Dodge.com at the bottom of the home page is owners manual when you go there you will see one for 2015 SRT Challenger and includes Hellcat.

 

[SteveLose]

Im confused. Bedding seems to make sense but the owners manual says no aggressive breaking in the first 300 miles. Whats a guy to believe?

 

[BossHawg]

Im confused. Bedding seems to make sense but the owners manual says no aggressive breaking in the first 300 miles. Whats a guy to believe?

Just drive it like you normally would. You will be fine.