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The stock ones are already too sqiushy when they are new ;)
 

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How did they fail?
Are they torn, or soft like mentioned above?
Just toss a bmr lockout on them if they are soft.
You only have three options, lockout, polyurethane, and solid aluminum through bmr.
Tons of write-ups on these bushings.
Make sure to do something with the diff bushings while you are in there as well.
The search function is terrible on here.
You are better off using google and finding these old posts.
 
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When I had my 14 Shaker built at Petty's Garage one of the things they recommended was a complete bushing upgrade for the rear cradle. You can really tell the difference in the way the rear cradle reacts to power application.
 

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Solid aluminum is race only.
Polyurethane is the middle ground.
Bushing lockout is the most streetable with the least amount of NVH.

If your bushings are bad like you say, you may have to go polyurethane route .....
 

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Here is the link to the BMR cradle lockouts and there's also a link to the directions in there.

bmr cradle lockout

I installed this kit on my car and really couldn't tell any difference in NVH. Like Greenmachine said above, other types of bushings can really cause a lot of NVH. My mustang has all poly in the rear suspension and it is much noisier than the rubber bushings. My 69 Chevelle had a mix of poly and spherical rod ends.
 
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This would not be a good recommendation if the bushings are bad as he was told from the mechanic.
 

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I"d replace the stock bushings with new stock bushings and then do the cradle lockout kit. I have no idea how hard it is to replace the stock bushings, but this way you know that your NVH will be tolerable.

Would that be a good option?

I would stay away from poly if you are going to drive the car a lot. I've run poly stuff for over 25 years, and it squeeks and makes noise and does increase NVH noticeable, at least in my cars, 69 chevelle and 07 mustang gt. Probably wouldn't be a bad in a HC. Maybe someone with poly cradle bushings in their HC will comment on this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had my stock cradle bushings replaced under warranty and the car STILL has the 'seesaw / rocking, side to side motion' under hard acceleration from 80+, what else could it be?

.... also the faster you drive, the worse the issue, it is so bad that my adult sons don't want to go in the car anymore:(

Car Driven - 6 months
At Dealership for repairs - 2+ months and counting .....

Potential Failure Options:
Alignment - done x2
Wheel / Tire Balance / Rotate - done x2
Cradle Bushings - done
Differental Bushings - ??
Shocks - ??
Anything else ??

Any help is appreciated!

2021 stock redeye - 21k miles
 

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These are heavy cars with lots of torque.
Put AAD rear arms in it, a rear cradle and diff lockout. That will straighten her up.
 

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I would definitely check out the half shafts.


Linda
 

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I had my stock cradle bushings replaced under warranty and the car STILL has the 'seesaw / rocking, side to side motion' under hard acceleration from 80+, what else could it be?

.... also the faster you drive, the worse the issue, it is so bad that my adult sons don't want to go in the car anymore:(

Car Driven - 6 months
At Dealership for repairs - 2+ months and counting .....

Potential Failure Options:
Alignment - done x2
Wheel / Tire Balance / Rotate - done x2
Cradle Bushings - done
Differental Bushings - ??
Shocks - ??
Anything else ??

Any help is appreciated!

2021 stock redeye - 21k miles
There is a lot of movement between the subframe and cradle with the stock cradle bushings,
 
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I did the Poly upgrade to the rear cradle on my supercharged 2014 Challenger Shaker almost 6 years ago and so far no noise that is louder than my exhaust. I really did help with the movement of the rear-end under hard acceleration.
 

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