SRT Hellcat Forum banner

1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Charger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
774 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I stumbled across a used 2017 Hellcat Challenger with only 600 miles on it and the exact color combo I want. I wanted to buy new out of fear of how it was treated by the previous owner. Not sure if a used car with 600 miles is a good thing or a bad thing (why would anyone sell a car they just bought and just broke in?)

The car is Go mango with carbon stripes, and an automatic transmission. That's the only options it has, no sunroof, no HK audio etc. What would be a fair price for a car like this?
 

·
Premium Member
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
1,114 Posts
the leftover is probably a 16 if you can buy it for 55k but I would offer that and try to get it under 60k...look closely at the tires-if they are all identical and have very close production dates earlier than the cars production date then they are probably original-how are they wearing-should be no noticeable wear at all-if they look ripped up well...
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
2,058 Posts
Get the vin and due a KBB.com look up and show the dealer (what they do to us) true value used. And only use the fair condition value. This is exactly what the dealer uses when you show up to trade your brand new used car. And the 42k-48k Challengers HC In Virginia Maryland market. Trade value for 16.
 

·
Browncoats Unite
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
1,518 Posts
I stumbled across a used 2017 Hellcat Challenger with only 600 miles on it and the exact color combo I want. I wanted to buy new out of fear of how it was treated by the previous owner. Not sure if a used car with 600 miles is a good thing or a bad thing (why would anyone sell a car they just bought and just broke in?)

The car is Go mango with carbon stripes, and an automatic transmission. That's the only options it has, no sunroof, no HK audio etc. What would be a fair price for a car like this?
If this is the car you are looking at: VIN 2C3CDZC98HH582800 at L.T. Bengal Motors in Kingston, then the original window sticker (https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/windowsticker/getWindowStickerPdf.do?vin=2C3CDZC98HH582800) shows the car came with the HK audio system as standard equipment when the car was new. Build sheet here https://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=2C3CDZC9XHH663958. If there is no HK radio, then something is really wrong with the car.

Fair price would be around $55k to $58k.

And the CarFax shows the vehicle was sold on April 4, 2018. Not sure what's going on here.

If this isn't the car you are looking at, just ignore this post. Sorry.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
646 Posts
If I was buying a used Hellcat, I would primarily be looking at car values in that area, previous damage, as well as what the original purchase date was for warranty starting purposes and I would have the computer scanned by the dealer to verify that the reflash code wasn't logged potentially voiding the warranty if not performed by a licensed FCA dealer. With the car you're looking at only having 600 miles, I wouldn't really worry about any of that as long as it still had a good amount of warranty left in case you run into any issues in the first year of ownership.
 

·
Registered
Charger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
774 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
If this is the car you are looking at: VIN 2C3CDZC98HH582800 at L.T. Bengal Motors in Kingston, then the original window sticker (https://www.chrysler.com/hostd/windowsticker/getWindowStickerPdf.do?vin=2C3CDZC98HH582800) shows the car came with the HK audio system as standard equipment when the car was new. Build sheet here https://www.dodge.com/webselfservice/BuildSheetServlet?vin=2C3CDZC9XHH663958. If there is no HK radio, then something is really wrong with the car.

Fair price would be around $55k to $58k.

And the CarFax shows the vehicle was sold on April 4, 2018. Not sure what's going on here.

If this isn't the car you are looking at, just ignore this post. Sorry.
Yes, that's the one. I didn't see it under options, I thought it was an extra cost option for the sound system. I can try for 55k-58k. Not sure if they'll bite.

If I was buying a used Hellcat, I would primarily be looking at car values in that area, previous damage, as well as what the original purchase date was for warranty starting purposes and I would have the computer scanned by the dealer to verify that the reflash code wasn't logged potentially voiding the warranty if not performed by a licensed FCA dealer. With the car you're looking at only having 600 miles, I wouldn't really worry about any of that as long as it still had a good amount of warranty left in case you run into any issues in the first year of ownership.
Good advice. The lack of mileage on this one seems to be a promising sign it wasn't molested too much. Only thing I'm worried about/paranoid about is if this car was a lemon and the owner wanted to dump it asap. I can't imagine trading a car in with only 600 miles. I go through cars frequently so I get it, but damn
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
646 Posts
Yes, that's the one. I didn't see it under options, I thought it was an extra cost option for the sound system. I can try for 55k-58k. Not sure if they'll bite.



Good advice. The lack of mileage on this one seems to be a promising sign it wasn't molested too much. Only thing I'm worried about/paranoid about is if this car was a lemon and the owner wanted to dump it asap. I can't imagine trading a car in with only 600 miles. I go through cars frequently so I get it, but damn
There are lots of reasons for the car to be returned. Maybe they bought a Demon, Trackhawk, Charger. Maybe they couldn't afford the car. It's a good idea to start a positive relationship with the service department at your preferred dealer. I'm sure the car will do great for you and you can get almost anything fixed under the Manufacturer's Warranty. Personally, this will be the first car that I have kept for more than a year since 2013. I liked all of them, I just get bored and want something new.
 

·
1st Hemi, 2017 Challenger Hellcat after "51-Years"
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
2,213 Posts
I stumbled across a used 2017 Hellcat Challenger with only 600 miles on it and the exact color combo I want. I wanted to buy new out of fear of how it was treated by the previous owner. Not sure if a used car with 600 miles is a good thing or a bad thing (why would anyone sell a car they just bought and just broke in?)

The car is Go mango with carbon stripes, and an automatic transmission. That's the only options it has, no sunroof, no HK audio etc. What would be a fair price for a car like this?
I posted this last evening to another guy in NY.
He was looking at Pre-Owned also.

Anyway you might want to check this out, maybe.


Click on the link below,
New 2017 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat for Sale in New York, NY - CarGurus


Discount
Price dropped by $12,072



2016 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat - $56,208 New !!!
Cherry Hill, NJ · 79 miles away !!!



Cherry Hill Dodge Chrysler Jeep RAM
www.cherryhilljeep.com

Today 9:00 AM - 9:00 PM
(Open Now)
(856) 528-0003
1708 Marlton Pike W
Cherry Hill, NJ 08002

Listing Summary

Dealer's Price: $56,208
MSRP: $68,280

Location: Cherry Hill, NJ · 79 miles away
Transmission: Manual
Exterior Color: Orange (Go Mango)
Interior Color: Black
Est. Gas Mileage*: 13 MPG City
21 MPG Highway
Engine: V8
Drivetrain: Rear-Wheel Drive
VIN: 2C3CDZC90GH314659
Stock #: 314659
Condition: New
Major Options
Option
MSRP

Power Sunroof
$1,995
No description available.
Wheels: 20" x 9.5" Brass Monkey SRT Forged
$995

Additional Information
50 State Emissions,Engine: 6.2L V8 Supercharged,Power Sunroof,Quick Order Package 25R SRT Hellcat,Red Seat Belts,Suede/Nappa Performance Seats w/SRT Logo/Blk/Ruby,Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Tremec,Wheels: 20' x 9.5' Brass Monkey SRT Forged

Here you go buddy exactly what your looking for so now call and then drive over and BUY it !!!

Terry
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
261 Posts
624 miles on 17 go mango, auto, no sunroof. got it in march. I paid 55,500. car is as new. if it has a clean car fax, and what you have been looking for I would do it, a lot of warranty left.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
I stumbled across a used 2017 Hellcat Challenger with only 600 miles on it and the exact color combo I want. I wanted to buy new out of fear of how it was treated by the previous owner. Not sure if a used car with 600 miles is a good thing or a bad thing (why would anyone sell a car they just bought and just broke in?)

The car is Go mango with carbon stripes, and an automatic transmission. That's the only options it has, no sunroof, no HK audio etc. What would be a fair price for a car like this?
Assuming the car is worth owning at all KBB gives a trade in range of $46,987 to $51312 with the trade in value of $49,150.

The dealer probably has no more in the car than its trade in value and being generous -- with your money... -- say it has $51,312. I'd start out at around that price level.

Don't get too distracted by price, while it is important, you have to be very very thorough in your researching the car, and checking it out.

Visit the car cold and start the engine and let it idle while you walk around the car checking body panel surfaces, gaps. The hood should be open so you can keep an ear tuned to the engine. Check hood and trunk hinge fasteners, fender fasteners, radiator fasteners for any signs these have had a wrench on them.

Now sometimes hood (or trunk) hinge bolts are loosened to adjust the position of the hood (or trunk lid).

After some idle time have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. You want to experience the car from the passenger seat so you can focus on how the engine runs, how the transmission shifts, etc. The route should be chosen so the driver can demo the car as you intend to use it, within reason of course. This should have a mix of city/suburban driving (stop/go), some boulevard cruising, and some highway driving with a chance to accelerate the car up to highway speed by at least taking the now warmed up engine up to near red line then up shifting and continuing to accelerate.

At all times the engine should be responsive and after a hard acceleration settle down and purr like a kitten, well, like a Hellcat kitten...

Back at the starting point switch seats and now you drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way. Be sure to check coolant and oil temperature and pressure for any abnormal readings/values.

After your test drive then give the car a thorough check out confirming every system from lights to signals to heater/AC to seats to windows to door locks and on and on and on work.

Look for signs any interior components have been disturbed.

After all this ideally it is a good idea to get the car in the air and inspect the car from underneath looking for any leak sign or signs of accident damage/repair or modifications. Like the hood/trunk hinge bolts you don't want to see any signs of any wrenching on steering, suspension, drive train hardware.

Part of the reason for initial idling and the 15 mile test ride followed by a 15 mile test drive is so the engine runs around an hour. This gives the engine controller time to complete its readiness monitor tests and turn on the CEL if there is a problem. It also gets the engine and drive train fully up to temperature and any leak is more likely to be evident with everything nice and warm.

If possible, if they exist, and they probably due, one would want to retrieve from the engine controller any over rev counters. These contain the number over revs -- each counter if there is more than 1 represents the over rev range -- and the time stamp -- in engine run time -- they occurred. You should also get the total engine run time. Assuming a 30mph average speed which is sort of typical then with just 600 miles the engine should have around just 20 hours of run time.

If the car passes your check out then you have the numbers I supplied above to base your offer on. Or if you prefer visit www.kbb.com and do your own research on trade in and private and retail sale values. Check out www.nada.com too. Generally these two sites disagree on prices but I go by the one with the lowest price when buying a car. Not my job to reconcile the differences, not my job to do the seller's job and work towards me paying a higher price for a car.

Remember a couple of things: There is always another car. If you find something negative about this car do not be afraid to walk away.

And last but not least, price is not fact only an opinion. The seller is entitled to his opinion but as a (prospective) buyer you are also entitled to your opinion.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
2,940 Posts
Assuming the car is worth owning at all KBB gives a trade in range of $46,987 to $51312 with the trade in value of $49,150.

The dealer probably has no more in the car than its trade in value and being generous -- with your money... -- say it has $51,312. I'd start out at around that price level.

Don't get too distracted by price, while it is important, you have to be very very thorough in your researching the car, and checking it out.

Visit the car cold and start the engine and let it idle while you walk around the car checking body panel surfaces, gaps. The hood should be open so you can keep an ear tuned to the engine. Check hood and trunk hinge fasteners, fender fasteners, radiator fasteners for any signs these have had a wrench on them.

Now sometimes hood (or trunk) hinge bolts are loosened to adjust the position of the hood (or trunk lid).

After some idle time have the seller take you on a 15 mile test ride. You want to experience the car from the passenger seat so you can focus on how the engine runs, how the transmission shifts, etc. The route should be chosen so the driver can demo the car as you intend to use it, within reason of course. This should have a mix of city/suburban driving (stop/go), some boulevard cruising, and some highway driving with a chance to accelerate the car up to highway speed by at least taking the now warmed up engine up to near red line then up shifting and continuing to accelerate.

At all times the engine should be responsive and after a hard acceleration settle down and purr like a kitten, well, like a Hellcat kitten...

Back at the starting point switch seats and now you drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way. Be sure to check coolant and oil temperature and pressure for any abnormal readings/values.

After your test drive then give the car a thorough check out confirming every system from lights to signals to heater/AC to seats to windows to door locks and on and on and on work.

Look for signs any interior components have been disturbed.

After all this ideally it is a good idea to get the car in the air and inspect the car from underneath looking for any leak sign or signs of accident damage/repair or modifications. Like the hood/trunk hinge bolts you don't want to see any signs of any wrenching on steering, suspension, drive train hardware.

Part of the reason for initial idling and the 15 mile test ride followed by a 15 mile test drive is so the engine runs around an hour. This gives the engine controller time to complete its readiness monitor tests and turn on the CEL if there is a problem. It also gets the engine and drive train fully up to temperature and any leak is more likely to be evident with everything nice and warm.

If possible, if they exist, and they probably due, one would want to retrieve from the engine controller any over rev counters. These contain the number over revs -- each counter if there is more than 1 represents the over rev range -- and the time stamp -- in engine run time -- they occurred. You should also get the total engine run time. Assuming a 30mph average speed which is sort of typical then with just 600 miles the engine should have around just 20 hours of run time.

If the car passes your check out then you have the numbers I supplied above to base your offer on. Or if you prefer visit www.kbb.com and do your own research on trade in and private and retail sale values. Check out www.nada.com too. Generally these two sites disagree on prices but I go by the one with the lowest price when buying a car. Not my job to reconcile the differences, not my job to do the seller's job and work towards me paying a higher price for a car.

Remember a couple of things: There is always another car. If you find something negative about this car do not be afraid to walk away.

And last but not least, price is not fact only an opinion. The seller is entitled to his opinion but as a (prospective) buyer you are also entitled to your opinion.
Dude. This isn't a 100,000mile car. Its under a complete warranty.

R.K.
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
7,321 Posts
It always baffles me why people question the reasons for other people selling or trading their fully factory warrantied higher end muscle car. There are LOTS of us who don't daily drive them. People are all out there looking for perfect used muscle cars with low miles and when they find them they get gun shy. Over thinking things is a great way to lose a great car.
 

·
Browncoats Unite
Challenger SRT Redeye
Joined
·
1,518 Posts
Just remember, 600 miles is 2400 passes down the 1/4 mile ;)
Wouldn't you have to factor in: another 1/4 mile for run out at the end of the strip, then the 1/2 mile back to the pits, then getting back to the staging lane for the next run, etc. Does the odometer turn when you are doing a burn out? If it does, then you have to add in some 1/10th of a mile for each burn out. So how many runs can you make down the track in a day? Maybe 4 or 5? I don't really know. The car was owned for about a year in NY state. Lets say they have a good 8 month racing season. Now lets say you add the extra miles mentioned above, so now you are at maybe 1000 actual runs down the strip. 1000 runs over 8 months, is 125 runs per month. At an average of 5 runs per track day, you are running about 25 days a month. Now that's a beaten up car.

At 2400 runs down the track for a year, that's 6 to 7 runs per day everyday. Now the car is really beaten up.

However, if the car had a winning record, the value goes way up, so it might still be worth $55k or more for as a winner. :)
 

·
Registered
Challenger SRT 426
Joined
·
1,542 Posts
Hellcat owners are passionate about their cars. I'd have absolutely no reservations on buying a used one knowing they may be rode hard but never put away wet and that's perfectly fine with these cars.
 

·
Registered
Charger SRT Hellcat
Joined
·
774 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
It always baffles me why people question the reasons for other people selling or trading their fully factory warrantied higher end muscle car. There are LOTS of us who don't daily drive them. People are all out there looking for perfect used muscle cars with low miles and when they find them they get gun shy. Over thinking things is a great way to lose a great car.
I get gun shy because from past experience if it's too good to be true, it usually is.

I totally understand that people get bored, buy a car, then trade it in because it's not quite hitting the spot. I've been there as well. Shortest period of time I had a car was 8 months, than traded it in for something else. 600 miles just seems crazy, like the car was a one night stand (well, maybe several nights)

You guys have put my mind at ease. I'm gonna contact them tomorrow and see if they're willing to work with me on the price.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top