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Discussion Starter #1
I have a ATI damper, it was previously drilled and pinned to a crank.
If I install it on a non drilled crank, can I line up the jig on the half drilled hole of the damper and just drill the crank.
I am guessing no.
 

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You should be able to. Why not? How many holes are drilled in the ATI?

R.K.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
One hole and the ati key way. Should I drill a new hole or try to use the existing one?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Let me clarify so we are on the same page.
The ati was drilled on another engine.
Now I am installing it on a non drilled crank, so I only have half the hole for pinning.
If I install the damper, then bolt the Bwoody pinning kit jig on lined up with the half of hole, do you think I could drill the crank half without breaking the bit or getting a odd cut?
 

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Let me clarify so we are on the same page.
The ati was drilled on another engine.
Now I am installing it on a non drilled crank, so I only have half the hole for pinning.
If I install the damper, then bolt the Bwoody pinning kit jig on lined up with the half of hole, do you think I could drill the crank half without breaking the bit or getting a odd cut?
Half the drilling is done for you. That will save your bit. All you have left to drill is the crank itself. Here's a video of what the finished product looks like. If yours won't look like this, then you'll need to drill another hole.


R.K.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have done these before, only a fresh job.
I just didn't know if anyone had attempted only half a hole without breaking a bit.
Or should I just start over with a new hole.
I have another thread about using the ATI pin kit and if it can be installed while the engine is in the car. It uses the key way slot.
 

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Never pin your crank the way they're doing it in the picture you posted.

Using the key way slot won't make the pin tight. Our cars don't have key ways on the crank (as you probably know). What I would do is put the ATI on and see if it looks like the hole drilled is perfect on the crank. If it is, then take the ATI off and using the Bwoody kit, just drill the crank itself. Make sure you only go as far down as the instructions say to. Clean it up, install the ATI and push the pin in and then install a NEW crank bolt and torque to spec. On my crank pinning, I have two pins installed; 180 degrees apart.

R.K.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I could drill the stock damper and crank prior to removing, but I do not think I will be able to line up the half holes when installing the ati
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Since they are dead end holes and working from underneath, seeing in there with a mirror and a shop light would not work out, and any little twist of the damper while pulling it on would make the pin not slide in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
IT WORKED.
Here is what I did:
-Pulled stock damper
-Installed the ATI pin kit, this pins through the crank outside towards center. See pics
This pin fits in the ATI keyway slot.
-Installed the ATI hub.
-Aligned the Bwoody jig to the existing half drilled hole in the ATI hub. This took forever with a mirror, tightening the bolt, loosening the bolt, realigning, retightening the bolt, etc.
Finally I got it lined up.
-Drilled the other half of the hole out.
-Insert the pin, tap it in as far as I could, used the Bwoody bolt and jig to push the pin in all the way.
-Install crank bolt, 148ft lbs, then 150 degrees or 248ft lbs. I hit 248ft lbs. I used the demon bolt.
NOW IT IS DOUBLE PINNED.
I only installed the ati kit first just in case the bwoody wouldn't line up or the drill bit broke off the tip or something odd. That way this car was still pinned.
Now we know it can be done, if anyone has any questions ever about this, please post and I will respond.
 

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Just curious, I watched Speedys video about finding the 150* ballpark measurement. Just curious how you did it? Nicely done btw. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I marked the ati hub edge with a BLACK sharpie at 9 o'clock (zero degrees), 12 o'clock (90 degrees), and 3 o'clock (180 degrees.)
Next I drew a line on the bolt head pointing directly at 9 o'clock (zero degrees.)
I made another mark at 1.5 o'clock (135 degrees.)
I made a RED sharpie mark next at 2.25 o'clock (157.5 degrees.) This was target mark.
It sounds odd using o'clock, but I think you get what I'm saying. Basically you just keep spitting 90, to 45, to 22.5 degrees on your markings. I ended up hitting 248ft lbs on the torque wrench when I hit the red sharpie mark.
 
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