[Unholy707]

Same if you actually use enough ice in it.

 

[fumanchu182]

It’s not theoretical, it’s physics. The aluminum will be so cold from dipping below freezing / at freezing from the interchiller condensation from the air will collect and freeze on it. Do you have a killer chiller?

Literally in this thread: BWoody Heat Exchanger install, race version, and BMR ice...

 

[Unholy707]

Literally in this thread: BWoody Heat Exchanger install, race version, and BMR ice...

Okay, yeah the killer chiller BRAND chillers are the least efficient ones out there unfortunately. This is what happens with a good chiller:

 

[Unholy707]

You Ic temp isn’t getting low enough to cause that I guess. But it does happen

 

[bauber]

I have the same color Hellcat and same BWoody Heat Exchanger. I love it!

 

[Unholy707]

Not hating at all, just proving that it’s beyond speculation.

 

[fumanchu182]

Really...

You Ic temp isn’t getting low enough to cause that I guess. But it does happen

Least efficient.... Please stop talking about my car. I have a 1.5 gallon BMR tank, I have a race version Killer Chiller from Kincaid. These are my IC temps.

My BMR tank gets iced over and yet I don't see water on the ground... wonder why. Oh that's right there are about 4 runners right below that evaporte any water if it were to escape what I have my BMR tank wrapped in.

 

[Unholy707]

Really...



View attachment 596014
View attachment 596013

Least efficient.... Please stop talking about my car. I have a 1.5 gallon BMR tank, I have a race version Killer Chiller from Kincaid. These are my IC temps.

My BMR tank gets iced over and yet I don't see water on the ground... wonder why. Oh that's right there are about 4 runners right below that evaporte any water if it were to escape what I have my BMR tank wrapped in.

Okay, so you do have your bmr tank wrapped - that’s what I suggested. You also have the “race version”, I’m going to say newer version? Those never got that cold, that’s awesome man. No one’s talking about water landing on the floor, I was talking about it soaking the electronics over the valve cover. I think you were taking things the wrong way here. Said I wasn’t hating at all.

 

[Unholy707]

There is also an engine belly pan there, but I digress. Wasn’t trying to hate in your car dude

 

[fumanchu182]

There is also an engine belly pan there, but I digress. Wasn’t trying to hate in your car dude

Nope thats gone too, destoyed it doing a wheelie 🤣

 

[Unholy707]

Nope thats gone too, destoyed it doing a wheelie 🤣

Well I hope my car runs as fast as yours does

 

[HC5120]

Do you guys with the chillers have your tunes adjusted to add even more timing in order to take advantage of those super low temps? I mean do you have more power because its 30 degrees than, say, if it were 70 degrees?

As I stated earlier, my car runs 6.80 to 7.05 depending on IC coolant temps. Once it hits about 105, I start to lose mph. My hope is just to keep it under 100 degrees.

 

[Unholy707]

Do you guys with the chillers have your tunes adjusted to add even more timing in order to take advantage of those super low temps? I mean do you have more power because its 30 degrees than, say, if it were 70 degrees?

As I stated earlier, my car runs 6.80 to 7.05 depending on IC coolant temps. Once it hits about 105, I start to lose mph. My hope is just to keep it under 100 degrees.

When you tune the car you tune for best case scenario, and timing is pulled by the pcm depending on temps/knock. Having a chiller prevents the pcm from pulling timing /helps with heat soak

 

[HC5120]

That's basically my question. Does it even matter if it's 30 degrees or 70 degrees? I understand that it keeps from pulling timing so you can run optimally. For my car, I know that if the IC coolant temp is 95-100, it runs the fastest mph it's capable of with the tune I have. I just want to stay right in that window so I can dial in my ET.

With a chiller, though, you need it super low because that cooling is going to be drained as you go down the track, so you need to get as low as possible before your run, I would think.

Heat soak is a killer on these cars. Two years ago, when the blower heat soaked it just stayed that way the rest of the day. It was like 105 degrees out that weekend.

 

[HC5120]

Hey everyone. So I've been having some issue with the my IC pump. The IC coolant temp started to heat up faster than it should and get hotter than it should, like up to 120 degrees in 10 minutes. I could see the pump was not working. With the tazer on, the pump would turn on for 5 seconds then off for 10 then on for 5, and keep doing that. I searched this site of course, and found this same thing described on a thread. Hpindy commented on that thread and so I asked him about the issue. He suggested cracking the IC line at the pump to get the air out.

Looking at the lines, I also discovered that the return line where it has a 90 deg bend to the lower right of the radiator, had collapsed. There had been hard line there, but when I did the reservoir I ran hose. I used a hose that is fairly flexible that I used on my supercharger on my mustang because it can bend easily, but I think a more rigid hose would be better. I made a hard line there now for that bend using a 90 degree adapter and two -12AN to 3/4 hose barb fittings.

What worked to get the air out was to crack the suction side line at the pump while keeping the BMR reservoir completely full via a garden hose. The pump started pumping non stop and the water is moving in the reservoir now.

I checked the bleed screw in the back of the SC, with the car running and no water came out at all and the reservoir level rose and ran over the top and sides of the tank. What happens is that because the bleed screw is lower than the BMR tank water level or because it's located at/near the outlet for the return line, if it opens with the pump running it will suck air in and then the pump will lock up again. If the pump is off, I'd think that opening the screw to fill the system would be okay as it would allow air to be evacuated, perhaps???

I still have to drive the car, which I will do tomorrow. Sitting in my hot garage the IC coolant temp did get to 105 after 25 minutes or so, which still seems a little high to me, but it was 90 degrees or so in the garage and the engine fan hadn't even turned on yet and there is no air movement in my garage of course. I'll find out tomorrow I guess.

I will also remove a little water from the reservoir and add in a bottle of water wetter once I am sure the issue is resolved.

We'll see what it does tomorrow when I get a chance to test drive it.

I don't know if my diagnosis is correct above, on what is exactly happening to cause this, but it seems that I've figured a couple of things out. I look forward to any observations or insights you all might have on this.

Thanks in advance!

 

[fumanchu182]

Hey everyone. So I've been having some issue with the my IC pump. The IC coolant temp started to heat up faster than it should and get hotter than it should, like up to 120 degrees in 10 minutes. I could see the pump was not working. With the tazer on, the pump would turn on for 5 seconds then off for 10 then on for 5, and keep doing that. I searched this site of course, and found this same thing described on a thread. Hpindy commented on that thread and so I asked him about the issue. He suggested cracking the IC line at the pump to get the air out.

Looking at the lines, I also discovered that the return line where it has a 90 deg bend to the lower right of the radiator, had collapsed. There had been hard line there, but when I did the reservoir I ran hose. I used a hose that is fairly flexible that I used on my supercharger on my mustang because it can bend easily, but I think a more rigid hose would be better. I made a hard line there now for that bend using a 90 degree adapter and two -12AN to 3/4 hose barb fittings.

What worked to get the air out was to crack the suction side line at the pump while keeping the BMR reservoir completely full via a garden hose. The pump started pumping non stop and the water is moving in the reservoir now.

I checked the bleed screw in the back of the SC, with the car running and no water came out at all and the reservoir level rose and ran over the top and sides of the tank. What happens is that because the bleed screw is lower than the BMR tank water level or because it's located at/near the outlet for the return line, if it opens with the pump running it will suck air in and then the pump will lock up again. If the pump is off, I'd think that opening the screw to fill the system would be okay as it would allow air to be evacuated, perhaps???

I still have to drive the car, which I will do tomorrow. Sitting in my hot garage the IC coolant temp did get to 105 after 25 minutes or so, which still seems a little high to me, but it was 90 degrees or so in the garage and the engine fan hadn't even turned on yet and there is no air movement in my garage of course. I'll find out tomorrow I guess.

I will also remove a little water from the reservoir and add in a bottle of water wetter once I am sure the issue is resolved.

We'll see what it does tomorrow when I get a chance to test drive it.

I don't know if my diagnosis is correct above, on what is exactly happening to cause this, but it seems that I've figured a couple of things out. I look forward to any observations or insights you all might have on this.

Thanks in advance!

I have been down this road with my bmr tank. My suggestion is to buy one of these and put the system under vacuum.

I also bought an extra lid and machin a hole with the Haas to use it.

this is the only bullet proof way. Have had zero issues since.

 

[HC5120]

Awesome! Will do!

 

[fumanchu182]

Awesome! Will do!

if you were local to MD, Id say just come to my house and bring a six pack and you could just use my lid and tool.

 

[Unholy707]

I have been down this road with my bmr tank. My suggestion is to buy one of these and put the system under vacuum.

I also bought an extra lid and machin a hole with the Haas to use it.

View attachment 597415
View attachment 597417
View attachment 597418
View attachment 597416
this is the only bullet proof way. Have had zero issues since.

Smart! I was going to say a shame you can’t vaccum fill it without fabbing something up for the lid on the bmr tank

 

[HC5120]

if you were local to MD, Id say just come to my house and bring a six pack and you could just use my lid and tool.

Thanks for the offer. But these gas prices. . . ha ha. I am going to my uncle's shop and we'll fab something up. Will post pics when it's done. I am going to buy the tool. I have a feeling I will be using it more than once or twice, lol.

Trying to get the car sorted out so I can race it Friday, Sat, Sun.