BWoody Heat Exchanger install, race version, and BMR ice tank reservoir

I installed the BWoody race heat exchanger and thought I would post a few pics and notes on the install. This is the 3.5" thick version versus the 2" version. I am not going to go through the whole process, just comment on a few things.

First was removing the fascia. You can find videos of this online. I will only add that be sure to remove both sides at the same time. If you pull one side off six inches and then pull the other side, it will break the plastic alignment thingy. The fascia will still line up if this happens, as I think it's more of an assembly thing, but this is how I broke one of them.




The 3.5" HE is big. We trimmed the fascia by 1" from the outer edge of the HE to maybe 6" inward on both sides, and then had to trim it all the way across as even the middle area would hit.. This has to be done. This also requires that you move the whole lower grill forward about 3/4" or so. You can no longer use the stock mounting points for the grill, so you have to drill new screws in the top. On the bottom of the grill, you can use the four tabs left over on the grill from where it mounted before. Needless to say, it will require trimming, fitting, trimming, fitting, etc. You also have to cut the radiator cover deal because of the brackets for the HE. I also had to move the tow hook mount I installed last year since it was in the center, and so I just put it to the left. You can see it in the next pic below, just taped on, mocking it up for drilling holes. Sorry no pics of the fascia modding, but it was getting late and needed to get the project done.



For the hoses from the HE, there are a couple of things. The upper house from the HE goes to the stock HE, and this hose must be under the bumper support. In the pic, I have a clamp on it and the hose is sticking out in front of the front plane of the horizontal bumper support. This won't work as the fascia will sandwich it.

For the lower HE hose which goes to the pump, it's best to trim the plastic on the side, as, again, the hose ends up wedged between the plastic and the fender. This was easy to do, and gives good clearance. I also used a different hose for this one as the radius was pretty tight and the heater hose they sent was a standard one and would flatten slightly, which I didn't want of course. I've been using Vibrant performance heater hose. It's way more flexible and won't flatten out. That worked good. I don't know how the stuff holds up over time, since I don't drive my hot rods a ton, but I used that hose when I installed a Whipple on my 07 mustang and it worked great, just way more flexible. It's the lower hose in the picture below.



You might notice that I have pushlock AN fittings and I also put hose clamps on them. They are a super tight fight without the hose clamps, but I wanted to be sure it won't leak. Pushlock hose is a specific type of hose that is very tough. I've used it with fuel lines on my Chevelle, and it works great but is a real bear to install. I was using regular heater hoses, so I included the hose clamps too, but I wanted the AN fittings, so I can disconnect it easily if I need to. The kit comes with 1/2" NPT fittings with hose barb ends and clamps.

I've been surprised at how pitifully small the stock HE is and how little coolant is in the stock system. I guess this just shows how efficient the stock intercooler is.

I also installed a BMR reservoir ice tank. I don't plan to put ice in it. I am just trying to increase the total amount of coolant, and the tank has 1.5 gallon capacity. My goal is for my car to be totally stable/consistent with IC temps, so I can know what it will run bracket racing.

Note on BMR tank: I had major issues trying to bleed the IC coolant system. Had to use a vacuum fill tool and modify the lid of the BMR tank, as suggested by fumanchu182. Pics are later down in this thread. You have to get the air out of the system. I recommend strongly you modify the cap so that you can use a vacuum fill tube and either get a second cap or make a plug or something for the modified cap.





The other option of course is an FI interchiller. According to the company you do need a bigger reservoir to optimize it. The HE route, though, will work great if we ever road race the car, and didn't require any wiring or splicing into other systems.

Over the course of the summer, when racing starts I will post temps. I have a lot of info logged from last year, so I will have good data to compare. If the IC temps can be kept at ambient I will be thrilled. My IAT is always 15-20 degrees higher than my IC coolant temp.

I am sure there are things we could have done differently, and the first time installing something always takes (way) more time. Worked on this and the BMR reservoir off and on for two days and then 13 hours the third day, with a nice lunch break and a couple other short breaks here and there. Nothing too taxing for install, just a lot of time with fitting and trimming, and of course removing and installing about 10 trillion push pins.