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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Buddy and I installed a new 420CI engine and built trans in my Hellcat. Yes, for those following along, this is essentially engine number 4...I don't have the best of luck. Anyway, since the install, I've had P0340 and P0339 codes. I've changed both sensors with OEM sensors. I've changed the starter. The battery is fully charged putting out 12.4+ amps while off and 14+ while running.

The car cranks forever and a day, sometimes taking multiple attempts but it does eventually fire. I'm being told that the log shows that there's no RPM signal but once it figures out the RPM after multiple attempts, it will show a signal and fire up. Eventually it loses the signal and dies. Could be two minutes, could be ten. Once it loses the signal, it is nearly impossible to get it started again, or keep it started if it does start.

General consensus is that it's an electrical issue, or it's the reluctor wheel. The engine shop swears it has the correct wheel.

It could be one bad connector, but it seems odd that I'd have codes for two sensors if only one is bad. A tech checked the crank connector and said voltages were correct. I tried to check the crank connector and got 4.8 on one set of prongs but that's about as much as I was able to figure out since I don't know didley about electrical. I'm happy to try stuff is someone wants to walk me through it via zoom or messenger.

So what I'm trying to figure out is if there's a common ground or wire that might be pinched or shorting or was left off by accident. I've checked and cleaned the grounds that I know of. I have one ground wire going to the trans bolt. I have two wires going to the stud under the supercharge coolant tank. I have one wire going to the stud under airbox. I believe there is one wire going to a stud in the trunk. Am I missing any?

These other things may be red herrings, but I need to mention them. The buttons on all three key fobs have stopped working. I've changed the batteries in all three fobs, repeatedly, with new batteries from Walmart, and there's no change. The car still senses the fobs and reacts when I touch the door handle and has no issues when I try to start the car. It's just that the buttons don't work. The car has been sitting for 19 months, mostly with the battery unhooked. Can the car "forget" the fobs, yet still recognize them with the handles and start button? Is there some connection to the crank and cam sensors? Is there something else I need to check that could be causing this issue?

I'm getting an SES code now and then, and the swerving car light comes on the dash.

Another possible herring is that the cigarette lighter in the dash no longer works. I've checked the fuse and it's fine.

And the final possible red herring is that the car eats batteries like no one's business. This has nothing to do with the new engine since it's done it for a couple years, but I figured I'd mention it. I can kill a new battery in one to two weeks if I don't have it on a charger. I think I'm on new battery number six with many recharges for each battery before they go completely bad.

So, any thoughts? Does any of this seem to connect to a common wire or source? If someone wants to walk me through anything, I will try it. I'm clueless about electrical but I'm a good monkey and will do what you say. I am on my last effort before I ship the car off somewhere to have them figure it out. It's been sitting here for months and I simply can't figure it out. I've been told an oscilloscope would tell us stuff, but I don't have one and don't know anyone who does. So if there's anything I can try short of that, I'm game. Thanks in advance for your help. I'm beyond frustrated.
 

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2021 Durango Hellcat
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365 Posts
I don’t know if this applies but when I did my LS6 build (2001 Z28) I had to use HPTuners to do a “crank relearn”. Good luck I’ve never swapped anything in a Dodge so this maybe useless info here.
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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114 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don’t know if this applies but when I did my LS6 build (2001 Z28) I had to use HPTuners to do a “crank relearn”. Good luck I’ve never swapped anything in a Dodge so this maybe useless info here.
That's actually something we were told to do but I didn't see it in hptuners. Perhaps it's not available for our cars or maybe I missed it. Any idea where it was in the software? We tried to do one with the Witech but it wouldn't let it finish. Not sure why but perhaps there's an issue that's not allowing the computer to see the sensors?
 

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325 Posts
>And the final possible red herring is that the car eats batteries like no one's business. This has nothing to do with the new engine since it's done it for a couple years, but I figured I'd mention it. I can kill a new battery in one to two weeks if I don't have it on a charger. I think I'm on new battery number six with many recharges for each battery before they go completely bad.
This MAY be the source of the problem.

It sounds like something is causing a parasitic power draw on the battery which is causing the rapid discharge.
Possibly a pinched/shorted wire causing the excessive power draw and also the CEL codes.

Even if the power draw is not causing the CEL codes, I'd consider that a priority to track it down.

I've had my Cat for a year now and there have been times I don't drive it for a couple of weeks. It was not on
a charger (it is now for the winter) but it always fired right over, no low battery problems.

This guy is awesome for finding electrical problems.... have a look at some of his videos:

 

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Charger SRT Hellcat
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277 Posts
You need to find someone who has a scan tool, and knows how to use it. There is no guesswork involved - it is a diagnosis that is required- and a scan tool can graph the output of all sensors to prove that they are or are not functioning. So the crank position sensor and the trigger wheel can be confirmed easily with the correct scan tool. The battery drain will also have to be found, and using the fuse box is one of the ways of doing that. In short you'll need a very skilled tech, someone who will not throw parts at the car, but instead identify the problem accurately.
 

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2016 Challenger Hellcat Pitch Black A8 (1 of 16,426)
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145 Posts
There probably isnt going to be an easy fix for this and unless you are really good at electrical troubleshooting you might wanna take it to someone who is.

The draw is probably unrelated. Two weeks is pretty much what the system is designed to sit for. Not to say they dont regularly sit for more. Draw spec is no more than .035A with everything shut down. I'd say anything under .055A isnt really an issue.

I've seen one engine swap decimate a harness let alone 3. Not saying it was a bad job but mistakes happen. Make sure there are no pinched wires.

Without looking at a wiring diagram you probably have three wires to each sensor. There will be a five volt reference, a sensor ground and a signal wire. The sensor ground is not a chassis ground and runs to the PCM. The CMP and CKP usually dont share a five volt reference circuit. Should be two and they should measure almost exactly five volts. They are split between sensors like cam, crank, map and APP. 4.98 is about as far off as you wanna see. Resistance should be about .4 ohms or less between sensor connectors and PCM on signal circuits measured with both disconnected. They only recommend back probing connectors so you dont spread any terminals causing even more issues.

Would also be worried about what is going on internally in the engine. If it ran fine before then this is what I would suspect. Reluctor wheels have to be correct. Should be able to mark a tooth and count them as the engine is rotated till the mark comes back around. Dont have a number for you on that but should be identical to the old engine if you have access to it. A borescope would help with this through the sensor holes.

Timing is another factor but if it runs ok when it does I wouldn't suspect this. It should crank over like it always has. If the starter is laboring or it cranks faster than normal I'd look here.

Also do yourself a favor if you attempt this. Get a good meter. Dont use an old Craftsman. I prefer Fluke auto ranging meters. A set of wind up test leads and t pins are gonna be needed also. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions. With the last 8 of your VIN I can pull diagrams and try to answer any questions when I have time.
 

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2016 Challenger Hellcat Pitch Black A8 (1 of 16,426)
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145 Posts
Bad advice can be counterproductive. Would say there should be a section of the forum dedicated to these kinds of questions but if you are at this point you probably shouldn't be doing it yourself.
 

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3,908 Posts
And yes, there’s other body grounds under the carpet, but that’s the body harness. I would just replace the entire engine harness. If you’ve been though 4 engines already, a $500 harness should be on your list
 
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