camber off after demon killer springs installed
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No I didn't apparently they sold out to a new company now
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If anything, I would be tempted to go with a bit of both-front-tires-toed in, VERY slightly, as the drag from the road is not going to force them to toe IN, by any stretch, but 0.81 inches? That sounds just stupidly excessive. I've eyeball-and-measuring-taped mine to less.
Also, negative static camber is always a good thing, if not excess.
Also, negative static camber is always a good thing, if not excess.
I’ll give you a suggestion. Do nothing up front for darn sure. That toe is on the money. If -1.whatever is good for the right, it is good on the left also. I run -2.0 degrees negative camber on the track and really don’t have any reason at all to change it a few fractions of a degree for street driving. Toe wears tires, not camber.
Same on the rear, the toe is on because he can adjust the toe front and back, and he did good. If anything, if you drag race (you must if you changed the springs) go get the complete set of rear arms (drag pack) from AAD and put the rear down flat camber wise. Otherwise don’t do a darn thing out back either. Enjoy!
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I have occasionally wondered if it is better to do the rear on these cars, for drag racing, when the rear squats, such that when it approaches its peak squat depth, that it THEN flattens the tires to zero camber, which, I am guessing, would require positive camber to some extent when static.
The tradeoff is that the positive camber you may employ to get maximum launch G would be unashamedly stupid to have on the street. There IS an ideal camber setting for maximum launch g, and if one were interested, one could find what it was, no matter how utterly, ridiculously unworkable it may be for street driving. One just has to remember to re-set camber to sane settings for street driving when leaving the drag strip.
Of course, this is the advantage of the big, wobbly sidewalls. They make wheel position less critical for gaining maximum forward-vector traction.
The tradeoff is that the positive camber you may employ to get maximum launch G would be unashamedly stupid to have on the street. There IS an ideal camber setting for maximum launch g, and if one were interested, one could find what it was, no matter how utterly, ridiculously unworkable it may be for street driving. One just has to remember to re-set camber to sane settings for street driving when leaving the drag strip.
Of course, this is the advantage of the big, wobbly sidewalls. They make wheel position less critical for gaining maximum forward-vector traction.
REAR: Straight up camber and just a bit of toe-in, good for everything. Everything being: street, track and strip. Unless you are chasing the last tenth or two out of your quarter mile time, that negligible “squat” camber change don’t matter. Get the AAD arms back there at all points to keep the settings as close as possible to your static setting. Set it and forget it.
Got track times, video and flat out hours of setting, and resetting and testing and testing here. I do my own alignments. Discussed it with another very knowledgeable and experienced driver, we both run our cars at about the same settings. It works.
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If budget allows get the AAD kit and set it up how you wish. You'll get more than just alignment benefits from them too. If not enough budget you can do the bushing and front control arms.
I have my rears at negative .5 and fronts at negative .75 and couldn't be any happier. I'm using the AAD kit and am a street driver (don't track this car).
I have my rears at negative .5 and fronts at negative .75 and couldn't be any happier. I'm using the AAD kit and am a street driver (don't track this car).
Why? Any camber in the rear other than flat has produced slipping. It is documented in every datalog I have. Flat and the times all change and the car becomes more controllable. Every picture of aggressive cornering shows the IRS flat, absolutely flat on the ground. Both my street 345/30-20 PS4S, and their partners the 345/30 Cup 2 track set absolutely love it. They hardly indicate any wear except pure even expected wear across each tire.
I can’t read another account where anyone with a Hellcat gets good rear tire wear. As is said above by me and others, those AAD bushings don’t allow any movement in the static settings. Unless your chasing the last tenth of a second in the 60’, why? Even so, the smart people I know, have a small amount of positive camber. You max camber the other way like that and you will need to chase a toe setting that may blow your mind. Your outer top of tires may protrude outside the sheet metal or WB tack on’s. So why would you max out positive camber?
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So, I will say it again, with details.. Your peak need for traction is not necessarily The picosecond that you begin to squat. If one were to look at the torque-applied-at-pavement-to-time graph, you may find that it does not occur when the vehicle is flat, no extra suspension squat.
Were one to align the camber curve so it provided the flattest possible contact patch, preferably overlapping the time frame in which peak torque is occurring, one could realize some traction gains, more especially so with stock sidewalls and high (relatively) tire pressures.
The FACT is that the car starts OUT with negative camber, negatively impacting footprint size and traction distribution across said tire footprint. As it squats, it ONLY BECOMES WORSE, WITH LESS AND LESS CONSISTENCY ACROSS THE CONTACT PATCH.
This is why starting with some positive camber, so that the tire hits zero camber at some time during the launch, instead of going from negative camber to OMG WAY TOO MUCH NEGATIVE CAMBER FOR MAX TRACTION is desirable.
If negative camber was the hot ticket for straight-line traction Top Fuelers would be using it, like the cambered rear axles they used or use in NASCAR.
Here's a thread discussing cambered solid axles, so no one makes a parade-like display of their ignorance by claiming they do not exist:
negative cambered rear ends
do any of you guys run a negative cambered rear diff? i have been thinking about the rear diff i want to get for my car. since the car will see more street time than track time will it hurt anything other than tire wear? the car will get pounded on autocrossing about 12 times a year and as many...
www.pro-touring.com
The idea, once again, is to more closely match maximum contact patch size and consistency with the maximum need FOR said contact patch maximum size and consistency.
I can't claim that having any positive camber would do, literally, ANY good at literally ANY time except right on launch at a drag race, but it is something that is ultra-cheap to try out, and would reduce the traction-reducing effects of negative-then-OMG-way-too-negative camber on launch.
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