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camber off after demon killer springs installed

2804 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by Himmelkat, Jul 3, 2021

Tcobb88

Discussion Starter · Jun 17, 2021

So I decided to install my demon killer springs by Carlyle racing and it threw my camber off.was told I could get bolts for front and adjustable links for back any suggestions? Thanks

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DGatzby

· #5 · Jul 1, 2021

Tcobb88 said:
So I decided to install my demon killer springs by Carlyle racing and it threw my camber off.was told I could get bolts for front and adjustable links for back any suggestions? Thanks View attachment 575735

I’ll give you a suggestion. Do nothing up front for darn sure. That toe is on the money. If -1.whatever is good for the right, it is good on the left also. I run -2.0 degrees negative camber on the track and really don’t have any reason at all to change it a few fractions of a degree for street driving. Toe wears tires, not camber.

Same on the rear, the toe is on because he can adjust the toe front and back, and he did good. If anything, if you drag race (you must if you changed the springs) go get the complete set of rear arms (drag pack) from AAD and put the rear down flat camber wise. Otherwise don’t do a darn thing out back either. Enjoy!

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DGatzby

· #7 · Jul 2, 2021

Himmelkat said:
I have occasionally wondered if it is better to do the rear on these cars, for drag racing, when the rear squats, such that when it approaches its peak squat depth, that it THEN flattens the tires to zero camber, which, I am guessing, would require positive camber to some extent when static.

The tradeoff is that the positive camber you may employ to get maximum launch G would be unashamedly stupid to have on the street. There IS an ideal camber setting for maximum launch g, and if one were interested, one could find what it was, no matter how utterly, ridiculously unworkable it may be for street driving. One just has to remember to re-set camber to sane settings for street driving when leaving the drag strip.

Of course, this is the advantage of the big, wobbly sidewalls. They make wheel position less critical for gaining maximum forward-vector traction.
https://thatwetshirt.tumblr.com%2Fpost%2F27401275427

REAR: Straight up camber and just a bit of toe-in, good for everything. Everything being: street, track and strip. Unless you are chasing the last tenth or two out of your quarter mile time, that negligible “squat” camber change don’t matter. Get the AAD arms back there at all points to keep the settings as close as possible to your static setting. Set it and forget it.

Got track times, video and flat out hours of setting, and resetting and testing and testing here. I do my own alignments. Discussed it with another very knowledgeable and experienced driver, we both run our cars at about the same settings. It works.

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DGatzby

· #10 · Jul 3, 2021

Himmelkat said:
have you ever TRIED maxing out the positive camber?

Why? Any camber in the rear other than flat has produced slipping. It is documented in every datalog I have. Flat and the times all change and the car becomes more controllable. Every picture of aggressive cornering shows the IRS flat, absolutely flat on the ground. Both my street 345/30-20 PS4S, and their partners the 345/30 Cup 2 track set absolutely love it. They hardly indicate any wear except pure even expected wear across each tire.

I can’t read another account where anyone with a Hellcat gets good rear tire wear. As is said above by me and others, those AAD bushings don’t allow any movement in the static settings. Unless your chasing the last tenth of a second in the 60’, why? Even so, the smart people I know, have a small amount of positive camber. You max camber the other way like that and you will need to chase a toe setting that may blow your mind. Your outer top of tires may protrude outside the sheet metal or WB tack on’s. So why would you max out positive camber?

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