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Can’t do the break in. Trying hard!

8K views 82 replies 31 participants last post by  HP_Addict19 
#1 ·
Been driving the new car for a few days. I drove it back from the dealer easy on tje highway with black key but after 150 miles I can’t wait anymore. Red fob yesterday and been doing some WOT bursts on the highway. Nothing to crazy but no way I can go 500 miles without gunning it!
 
#11 ·
These cars come with a Dodge-provided break-in procedure instructions. I would suggest strongly that you follow those unless you don't care about the longevity of the motor. I think it is also known that cars that were properly broken-in generally produce more horsepower than those that weren't. If you want to be safe follow those instructions, then at 500 miles change the oil. This will remove any metallic particulate or shavings, etc. that could possibly be in the engine from it's manufacture. After this is done, drive and enjoy the car however you like and then change the oil again after 2 to 3000 miles. After this final break-in oil change number 2, proceed to change oil at normal scheduled intervals as you see fit. Just my .02 Cents!
 
#12 ·
makes sense. I only floored it a few times anyway not like I’m an animal. I do probably give it 75% a good amount of times.

the owners Manual doesn’t say change at 500 miles, says 6 months or 6000? Is this 500 mile oil change just a rule of thumb or from dodge?
 
#13 · (Edited)
Real of thumb. Yea I guess. I might change mine at 750 or so. IMO.
Yea we know the manual doesn’t say when to do first oil change. But it’s common sense. If they give break in instructions up to 500 miles. And like I said the manual also states don’t race it at the track until 1500 miles
 
#17 ·
Gonna play devil's advocate here. 3 Hellcats, all 3 oil changed at 5k miles. No issues at all. No metal chips in oil or filter (took apart filter). As far as I know there is no specific break in oil or additives from the factory. It's the same oil that is recommended in the manual. In my opinion, people overthink oil way too much. Just drive it.
 
#19 ·
Here’s the oil analysis thread I mentioned. Factory oil in it.

 
#18 ·
The whole thing about the break in is to allow all new parts to properly seat where they need to, on an engine is all about the rings and liners, then you also have the differential and then the transmission…

The 500 mile rule of thumb is typically about you can do on a dyno by running an engine on a typical duty cycle (mix of city, highway driving conditions) which will include some part load and few full load conditions for sure.

My recommendation is always ensure proper engine warm up, allow it to reach normal temps, I for one let it go through its cold start up initial crank, engine will go to somewhere around 1,200 to 1,500 RPMs then gradually drop down to idle, that’s when I engage the transmission and off I go from my driveway, from there just be gentle and let it warm up till you at least reach coolant temps around 200F, your oil temps will initially be lower as your engine hasn’t heat soaked completely yet…

Also ensure not to idle too much that is a real pain for an engine, other than that enjoy it and don’t do anything crazy, remember you are most likely driving in public roads so always good to be mindful of others around you…

Certainly driving on a track is not a good break in for any vehicle as you will be pushing the mechanical Components to its limits!

Enjoy it as we are really lucky to live in this great country and enjoy such a great Grownups toys!!!!
 
#20 ·
excessive idling has zero effect on engines, as do gently breaking it in vs hammering it...this has been documented several times. Pro tip, if you are a follow the manual kind of guy then follow it, if you don't care about the manual then don't follow it. There is no "break in" additive added to the oil, never was, never will be...would you like to talk to the engineer that designed the engine?
 
#23 · (Edited)
Engines are tested at the factory with additives then drained and the regular oil is replaced. One of the reasons for most manufacturers have break in procedures if for the differential. They do not test the differential at the factory. If you ask any differential specialist about break in procedures for a new differential or a ring and pinion swap, they will recommend pretty much the same as the owners handbook on break in procedures. (Just my 2 cents)

"Google Break in procedures for a new Differential"
 
#55 ·
I just find this interesting.

You guys can run your cars in a demolition derby for all I care. Lol.
Same here, everyone can do whatever the hell they want. I just voiced my .02 cents on the matter because a member asked a question, and my opinion happens to mostly go right along with the break-in procedures that Dodge recommends. I guess I am just being extra careful or anal about it depending on your perspective. It is funny though seeing people trying to argue about an oil analysis report which clearly states that there are break-in additives still in the engine as well as a high metal content. This is exactly why I do what I do with new engines. That stuff absolutely has an effect on the motor however small that effect may be. Have you ever seen the crank journals on a motor with excessive metallic particles in the oil? It does not take much to cause excessive wear on those alone. And while some people might have owned 3 Hellcats and never did any of the recommended break-in stuff and never experienced problems, that doesn't mean that the car's motor is going to last as long as someone who did, or put out the same amount of horsepower as a properly broken-in motor. To me, the oil and filter cost is a very small price to pay to keep my car's engine in tip-top shape (I do my own oil changes so no extra cost over materials).
 
#32 ·
Not sure about the trans and brakes. After I get new pads and rotors changed I always do hard braking from 50 mph a few times. But I usually go overboard on most things WRT new car maintenance. 500 mile initial oil change then 3000 mile oil changes, 500 mile initial differential fluid change and then every 20,000 miles. Transmission fluid every 20,000. I have followed this with the 2 Mustang GT's with the coyote 5.0, and my two mopars. But I do all my own maintenance so it is not that expensive.
 
#33 ·
I’ve never changed the rear differential oil on a new car but I will with my Hellcat. Mainly because the car spins the tires so easily. IMO. And I’m having a blast with this car. The 700+ HP, supercharger whine, etc..
And I’m learning more about detailing. Because it’s Black.
I’ll Probably have it ceramic coated soon so it doesn’t need too much paint correction.
 
#35 ·
I’ve never changed the rear differential oil on a new car but I will with my Hellcat. Mainly because the car spins the tires so easily. IMO. And I’m having a blast with this car. The 700+ HP, supercharger whine, etc..
And I’m learning more about detailing. Because it’s Black.
I’ll Probably have it ceramic coated soon so it doesn’t need too much paint correction.
I just got my black JB ceramic coated. Being that it last 5 years it was worth it to me.
 
#37 ·
Good to see you are enjoying that car!! You did your time waiting.
Isn't it all worth it now!?
hell yeah man it’s been 6 months waiting. Love this thing.
Took the kids for a ride and they were either really happy, or, my one was scared. Lol!

wife still didn’t drive it yet I keep egging her on.

never believed I’d own a car like this either. 🤩
 
#39 ·
Well, send your Hellcat to me.
I'll out those break in miles for you safe and sound too!
I'm in Pa !
I do All my Speed Racing at the track!

Linda :)
 
#50 ·
I’m going to change my oil before winter storage so I’ll probably be around 1000? Then I’ll do it every 6 months. The warranty thing is why I want to do it every 6. Seems like a waste of oil though if I change it in October, sits there with 0 miles until March, and I change it in April with probably only 400 miles on the damn oil. Oh well.
 
#54 ·
I always thought that was overkill. To say the least. Changing oil before and after winter storage. Wtf. That’s like old school tips. I’m gonna try to put more miles on my Hellcat before I can’t drive it in the winter. I don’t like it sitting too long without starting it at least. Hopefully we’ll have a mild winter.
 
#51 · (Edited)
I’d like to see oil analysis of 6 month/500 miles oil change VS. brand new oil. Lol.

Edit: Seriously, depending on anything personal issues in my life. I might skip 6 months. Change in 8 months.

I definitely bought this car to drive though. But it’s like almost everyday I hear a Hellcat has been stolen. I think the only place I’ve stopped and parked is a gas station so far. Lol. And I’ve stopped for gas alot. and I don’t care.
 
#53 ·
I had a ‘19 Scat Pack Charger before the Hellcat. Octane Red. (I got it up to 171 mph) I love that color. I sold it a year ago so I could upgrade to a Challenger Hellcat Widebody. If I could do it over again I’d probably get the octane red for the Hellcat. But the pitch black looks awesome clean and shiny. It’s just harder to stay clean. I didn’t break in the Charger like the instructions say for the Hellcat. I did take it easy for the first 500 miles or so. First oil change was early too.
 
#59 ·
Unless something has changed the engine is run through it's paces (broken in) for 42 minutes at the factory. Break-in is for the drive train (and burglars).
 
#61 · (Edited)
No problem at all. Post away! I had posted a few other test results too, including the nine-year-old, 191 mile, Mobil 1 in my Viper that was still fresh as day one according to the lab. (for proof that old oil doesn't expire or get contaminated by simply sitting in your non-running car's oil pan)
 
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