[Ares_SRT]

Hi everyone,

I now have a 2016 SRT 392- Torred- I love it. It is my 3rd SRT. I have never had this issue before, so about 80mph you can start to feel a slight shaking or vibration, I guess, but when you get past 100mph the whole car (what it feels like) just starts shaking and banging around. I have replicated it 3 times and it feels like its coming from the front, mostly. The car literally feels like its jumping up and down on the road making the worse noise ever, it sounds like my suspension is just slapping around. My car just hit 15k miles and I bought it with 6k miles on it. It has done it with 2 different sets of SRT wheels on the car BOTH which have new tires mounted on them. The dealership said my suspension is fine, but my rotors are "shimmed" from how i drive and that's the issue....this is my DD and I do not track it, but I don't drive it like a old lady either.....they said I need to replace the brakes and the warranty for those stops at 12k miles .... I order some pads and rotos online and are waiting to get them, because the dealer tries to charge way too much for these brakes. I don't have any videos of it, I plan to mount my GoPro on the car and see what I get. Any ideas or suggestions? I thought wheels/tires but ive changed since and it still does it.

 

[Ares_SRT]

I do not have to be on the brakes for it to shake...

 

[tkracing1]

Install new rotors and check again. If this doesn't fix it check that tires are correctly balanced.

 

[Blkout]

I've never seen rotors warped bad enough to cause major shaking when you're NOT on the brakes. Typically, shaking in the front end is always caused by tire imbalance or something loose in the suspension. I'd love to say I have faith in all the dealers and places you've taken the car to have it inspected but I just don't. Have you tried swapping the rear wheels to the front to see if the vibration changes at all?

 

[Slowpoke387]

This has been an ongoing issue with these cars. You are not alone. My Hellcat had waaay too much weight on my wheels when it was delivered from the factory. Take your car and have the tires balanced by a reputable shop.

 

[WizzaVTX]

Had the same issue at the same speed....asked dealer to check drive line, dismount wheels and rebalance and rotate all around.....made it worth the trip....issue was fixed fully.

They did laugh at me when I said it happens over 80 and they said they weren't going to test that speed

 

[MuscleGarageLA]

Try to get it road force balanced.

 

[Diboblo]

Had this problem with my 2006 SRT Charger.

Find a road force balancer, in your area and get it done. You'll be surprised at the results.

You can locate one, here:

GSP9700 Locator

Hope this helps,
Bob

Just some dude...

 

[BrakeFade]

Yep, like others have said gotta get a road force balance first. Then go from there.

 

[Rockster]

Hi everyone,

I now have a 2016 SRT 392- Torred- I love it. It is my 3rd SRT. I have never had this issue before, so about 80mph you can start to feel a slight shaking or vibration, I guess, but when you get past 100mph the whole car (what it feels like) just starts shaking and banging around. I have replicated it 3 times and it feels like its coming from the front, mostly. The car literally feels like its jumping up and down on the road making the worse noise ever, it sounds like my suspension is just slapping around. My car just hit 15k miles and I bought it with 6k miles on it. It has done it with 2 different sets of SRT wheels on the car BOTH which have new tires mounted on them. The dealership said my suspension is fine, but my rotors are "shimmed" from how i drive and that's the issue....this is my DD and I do not track it, but I don't drive it like a old lady either.....they said I need to replace the brakes and the warranty for those stops at 12k miles .... I order some pads and rotos online and are waiting to get them, because the dealer tries to charge way too much for these brakes. I don't have any videos of it, I plan to mount my GoPro on the car and see what I get. Any ideas or suggestions? I thought wheels/tires but ive changed since and it still does it.

Did the car do this from when you first got it? If so that suggests the car was involved in an accident prior to your purchasing the car and has not been properly repaired. A careful inspection of the car's steering/suspension is needed to determine if there has been any repair and then if so the repair has to be sanity checked.

A check of the alignment might be called for. Unfortunately in these situations unless something just jumps out at one it is a process of elimination and checking the alignment eliminates that possibility.

Since the car has had two different sets of SRT wheels/tires this suggests the problem is with where the wheels mount to the hubs.

My thinking is what centers/locates the wheel to the hub is bad and the wheel is not centered.

Best I can advise is the car needs to be put in the air and the tires/wheels rotated to check for excessive radial or axial run out.

And while I find it hard to believe bad rotors could account for the behavior might as well check the brake rotors for run out too.

At the same time a careful check can be made for any bent/damaged suspension hardware, excessive play from a failed/collapsed bushing, etc.

I hate to say this but you must know what you may be up against but often in these types of situations the tech is less than 100% enthusiastic/thorough. This can be a real problem for one comes away with the techs' report no problem found and this of course puts on off on the wrong path or has one replacing hardware that does not need to be replaced.

(I can recall one such case the problems appeared to be alignment related. The owner had the car in to one dealer several times and each time the car came back with the alignment was fine. Owner finally took the car to another dealer and the alignment was checked and found to be off and after it was put right the symptoms were gone.)

If the behavior was not present from when you first got the car this suggests the cause is due to a component failure. A bad shock can certainly have the car behaving like you describe. A sign a shock is bad is if the shock leaks. But a shock can be bad even if it does not leak.

With some cars one can do a bounce test. This is done by pushing down on a corner of the car to compress the spring/shock then releasing the pressure then pushing down again to get the corner of the car "bouncing" up and down. Once it going pretty good stop and see how quickly the movement stops. With a healthy shock it should stop almost immediately. It is unlikely all 4 shocks are bad so if you check all 4 corners this way if there is a bad shock it will likely be quite evident.

There is probably a way to test the shocks off the car but that involves some expense to remove the shocks test them then reinstall the shocks.

It might help to make a video of the behavior. Not for posting here but for showing the tech. You already mentioned this and I think it a good idea, mount a Go Pro camera to the car's exterior and aim the camera at the worst corner.

 

[Confuzed2]

I'd be surprised if rotors cure it. As already said, when rotors warp you normally feel the vibration from the brake pedal when applying the brakes...and normally you'll feel that at all speeds - not just over 80 MPH. Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel while NOT applying the brakes over 80 MPH? -That would indicate a wheel or tire imbalance on the front end.

I've never seen rotors warped bad enough to cause major shaking when you're NOT on the brakes. Typically, shaking in the front end is always caused by tire imbalance or something loose in the suspension. I'd love to say I have faith in all the dealers and places you've taken the car to have it inspected but I just don't. Have you tried swapping the rear wheels to the front to see if the vibration changes at all?

I'd try the above first!! If the vibration feels the same at the same speed, then it's most likely something loose in the suspension or an alignment issue. If the vibration shifts to the rear, then it's something to do with your wheel/tire balance.

 

[Steven_sbs]

Rubber bushings?? Something worn, dried out and cracked, pinched? I vote bushings. Warped rotors doesn't sound right to me. I also don't drive over 80 (in case my wife reads this).

 

[18WIDECAT]

Bad tire balance is normally indicated by a shaking/shimmy that comes on a certain set speed, less you have a bent rim.

 

[qwiksilvertrav]

Rockster summed it perfectly! /thread lol

 

[Ares_SRT]

Thanks Rockster!!

I had all of the wheels rebalanced and road forced....it definitely drives smoother just riding around, but I went back up to 90-95 and it was smooth for a few seconds, then all of the sudden the whole front of the car started shaking and banging again. I haven't had a chance to record it yet. Im dropping the car off this weekend at the dealer again and plan on having new evidence that will support it not being my wheels or brakes.

 

[White Trash]

Go to the dealer ASAP
Get the service manager in the car with you
Go for a drive. Get on the freeway at the speed it starts to give issues
Otherwise you are wasting time

 

[Ares_SRT]

Agreed! I have that set up for Thursday.

 

[89Oplx]

Sounds like a warped rotor.

 

[Diboblo]

I still have yet to understand how a warped rotor causes vibration, at any speed, without applying the brakes.

#Baffled.

Bob

 

[HUNTER]

Mine did it real bad between 60 to 80-85. At the time had aftermarket wheels.
Put some Triumph wheels on. Problem gone.