[BSouders80]

Needing some help please.

I have an IC Chiller kit installed on my 16 HC challenger. Just installed.

In normal mode it is working. IC Coolant temps drop 30-40F.

When I engage the race option and divert all of AC to chiller kit, IC starts to drop more, but then the free starts to pop off.
I believe they put 2.2 pounds of R-1234yf in the system.

Can anyone chime in on tune specific changes that can better improve the chiller systems? Fans on high at a lower temp? With the compressor being variable displacement Is there a way to make it work harder sooner? Seems as the way it is, it cools more at higher rpm’s?

 

[BSouders80]

bump

 

[orrwhat]

Are you saying the safety relieve valve pops open and releases freon to atmoshere? If so it is overcharged and needs to be reserviced.

 

[BSouders80]

Yes. Safety relief valve pops off.


cabin AC is good in normal chiller mode. Coolant temp and oat’s come down. When I turn on race mode, coolant and iat’s continue to fall until relief valve pops.

if it is right on the verge of being over charged, would it be bad to let it vent until pressure normalizes

 

[orrwhat]

Which chiller do you have? May need to have the expansion valve checked on the chiller. I am guessing there is too much head pressure and could be from too much refrigerant.

 

[BSouders80]

IC chiller

I believe the instructions were to load 2.2 pounds.

But is that with drag mode on? Drag mode off? I would think with drag mode on. Is that 2.2 pounds at an idle or 2500 rpms?

Like I did say, it does work. With cabin ac on max, coolant temp does come down about 20 degrees at idle. At 2500 rpm’s, down about a another 5 degrees.

with race mode on, temp drops more until relief valve pops.

I am going by the shop that charged ac tomorrow. Looking for any suggestions on what to check or change on Freon.

 

[WizzaVTX]

Recommend contacting the makers directly and they can provide specific details on how to address it

 

[Unholy707]

Any update on this? I was gonna go with them Active Interchillers. Who’s IC? Name of company?

 

[WizzaVTX]

www.icchiller.com

New company, tons of Hellcat knowledge and racing experience. Very credible guys doing good work for the community.

 

[WizzaVTX]

@BSouders80 I sent one of the main guys a note on FB letting him know you had questions. He assured me he knew you from the order of the kit and would contact you directly.

 

[Unholy707]

Lot of money for a glorified killer chiller kit imo. Let me ask you a vital question. Did they relocate the pressure sensor to after the valve? If not, could be the issue. This is also the part that FI Interchillers tries (badly) to photoshop out of their kit pics so people don’t “steal their ideas”. Looks like all standard stuff sourced off Amazon, I looked into building my own unit before and sourced most of the parts

 

[Unholy707]

Lot of money for a glorified killer chiller kit imo. Let me ask you a vital question. Did they relocate the pressure sensor to after the valve? If not, could be the issue. This is also the part that FI Interchillers tries (badly) to photoshop out of their kit pics so people don’t “steal their ideas”. Looks like all standard stuff sourced off Amazon, I looked into building my own unit before and sourced most of the parts

It is good to see they’re using the correct refrigerant valve though, and on the correct line. I know where everyone gets their “proprietary” cores from, too. It’s not proprietary lol, it’s an option on certain cores from a manufacturer

 

[BSouders80]

Charlie with IC Chillers is great to work with. Great customer service and willing to do whatever to help work through issues. My main issue was that I had an air pocket in the coolant system. I tried everything I could do to get it out. Ran the IC Pump with Tazer. Opened the SC bleed valve, drove over bumpy roads trying to knock the air pocket loose and so on. Air pocket may not show for 30 minutes of run time, then temps spike and CEL throws code for over voltage on the pump. I ended up taking my HC back to the shop that installed the kit and they were able to get the air pocket out. Re-charging ac system today and it should be golden.

 

[HC5120]

Charlie with IC Chillers is great to work with. Great customer service and willing to do whatever to help work through issues. My main issue was that I had an air pocket in the coolant system. I tried everything I could do to get it out. Ran the IC Pump with Tazer. Opened the SC bleed valve, drove over bumpy roads trying to knock the air pocket loose and so on. Air pocket may not show for 30 minutes of run time, then temps spike and CEL throws code for over voltage on the pump. I ended up taking my HC back to the shop that installed the kit and they were able to get the air pocket out. Re-charging ac system today and it should be golden.

Get a vacuum fill tool. Others including myself have gone through this with adding heat exchangers or larger reservoirs. The IC coolant system is just very finicky. I think I read in the directions to something or other that air gets into the front of the blower and is hard to get out. It said to lift the rear of the car as high as possible to purge it. Don't know if that's what causes the problem or not.

Sounds like it's fixed for you, but wanted to post those for anyone else who has this problem.

 

[BSouders80]

Care to share a link to a vacuum fill tool? Good info man. Appreciate the input. If this saves someone else headaches, great.

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Yes. Safety relief valve pops off.


cabin AC is good in normal chiller mode. Coolant temp and oat’s come down. When I turn on race mode, coolant and iat’s continue to fall until relief valve pops.

if it is right on the verge of being over charged, would it be bad to let it vent until pressure normalizes

No, not a bad idea, once the high pressure relief closes it is at a happy pressure, maybe a hair low, run it.

IC chiller

I believe the instructions were to load 2.2 pounds.

But is that with drag mode on? Drag mode off? I would think with drag mode on. Is that 2.2 pounds at an idle or 2500 rpms?

Like I did say, it does work. With cabin ac on max, coolant temp does come down about 20 degrees at idle. At 2500 rpm’s, down about a another 5 degrees.

with race mode on, temp drops more until relief valve pops.

I am going by the shop that charged ac tomorrow. Looking for any suggestions on what to check or change on Freon.

2.2 lbs is 2.2 lbs of liquid charge no matter which valves are open or closed, 35 oz of Freon is the recommended charge amount I believe for the FI kit. My Drag size Killer Chiller took 48 oz to get the pressures where they needed to be (Industrial R134A) and it makes 26F coolant temp and has been for almost 3 years now untouched. How is the heat exchanger mounted? Fittings all facing up, down, or to the side? And if is to the side which fittings are on the upper side of the unit the Freon in or out or the water in/out?

 

[BSouders80]

 

[BSouders80]

I believe IC Chiller said to start at 28 oz with their kit. I am charging with 134A as well.

 

[16GoManGoHC]

View attachment 598897
View attachment 598898

With that type of mounting liquid Freon can pool in the heat exchanger and restrict flow like a blockage causing high pressure spikes especially on restart. ie fine when first charged but when left to sit and Freon turns back to liquid it dead heads the system until it clears itself by blowing the liquid clear. The Best mounting configuration is on its side with the Freon fittings on the bottom.

 

[BHoward]

Care to share a link to a vacuum fill tool? Good info man. Appreciate the input. If this saves someone else headaches, great.

OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit, 5 Adapters, Eliminate Trapped Air, Test Radiator and Heating Core Lines for Leaks, Vacuum Fill Coolant Tool, Vacuum Leak Tester https://a.co/d/fjyvp93