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Clutch Recommendations M6

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I recently purchased a new monster clutch triple disc and definitely regret it. Tranny got pulled out 4 times and never got to work. There was horrible chatter and gears were not going in. Customer service was pain, they blamed the installer and it was just a back and forth thing. Long story short I got offered from them to buy the clutch kit back for only $989.99 when Initially paid 2K for it. I’ve heard other people having same issues with different clutch kits where gears don’t go in. I would highly appreciate recommendations from what you guys have on your m6s cats. I don’t have an exact # on my HP but I have Upper pulley 2.85, fic1000 inj, jlt intake, catless, tune
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I have used Mcleod clutches for years and never had any issues. They have great customer service andwill help out if you call them with your needs. In 2000 they didnt have an after market flywheel i was looking for so we worked together and they made me one. (needed a flywheel for a 2000 dodge dakota with an nv3500 m5 trans to fit a 360 5.9l. I was doing a manual swap in my dakota r/t. flywheel needed to be externally balanced and have pick ups for the crank position sensorwhich at the time noone made) They were great help with all my projects
 

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I have a Mantic refurbished never used yet Quad disk clutch for Hellcat for sale. Half price of buying new and comes with a 2 year warranty just like a new one. Just reduced to $2500 if anyone is interested in it let me know.

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I have a Mantic refurbished never used yet Quad disk clutch for Hellcat for sale. Half price of buying new and comes with a 2 year warranty just like a new one. Just reduced to $2500 if anyone is interested in it let me know.

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I'm looking at Mantic clutches right now, but certain I don't need a quad for my planned setup. Just curious what you went to and maybe why you went away from Mantic.
 

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I'm looking at Mantic clutches right now, but certain I don't need a quad for my planned setup. Just curious what you went to and maybe why you went away from Mantic.
Didn’t go away from Mantic, they’re some of the best clutches out there. I needed some funds for a new RedEye blower so had to liquidate it. My McLeod RXT1200HD is still going strong at 1070 wheel. I still have a new in box Mantic Triple for when the McLeod says it had enough but so far no signs of that yet at least, the HP will be over 1100 soon though. The McLeod is at its crank rated limit atm, they give up the ghost in about this area.

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The Quad that was traded towards a New RE blower
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The new in box yet RE blower :)
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Didn’t go away from Mantic, they’re some of the best clutches out there. I needed some funds for a new RedEye blower so had to liquidate it. My McLeod RXT1200HD is still going strong at 1070 wheel. I still have a new in box Mantic Triple for when the McLeod says it had enough but so far no signs of that yet at least, the HP will be over 1100 soon though. The McLeod is at its crank rated limit atm, they give up the ghost in about this area.

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The Quad that was traded towards a New RE blower
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The new in box yet RE blower :)
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You’re going for a slightly different goal than I, so I almost hesitate to ask, but how are the street manners of the McLeod vs the Mantic. I’ve heard better things about the Mantic despite it also having better power handling capabilities, so that’s why I’m leaning that way. It’s tough to get good, objective feedback on these things it seems.
 

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You’re going for a slightly different goal than I, so I almost hesitate to ask, but how are the street manners of the McLeod vs the Mantic. I’ve heard better things about the Mantic despite it also having better power handling capabilities, so that’s why I’m leaning that way. It’s tough to get good, objective feedback on these things it seems.
First off, How much wheel hp you planning on making? If under 850 you’ll get no smoother easier clutch then the stock clutch. My stock clutch lasted 15000 hard miles and didn’t start to slip until I got up around 925 wheel then it started to slip hard hitting 4th gear.
But to your question, the McLeod RXT is a cerametalic type friction material made to grab hard and quick with no slip so it’s touchy in starting out, it wants to chatter if you feather it wrong but get it right and it’s just fine, pedal effort about like stock, I can’t tell the difference. I have mine on a RAM aluminum flywheel which the assembly, clutch, PP, FW, ends up being about only 5 lbs lighter then stock as the McLeod unit on its thick bolster plate that bolts the complete clutch unit to the flywheel and does not use the friction surface of either flywheel it’s on, stock or aftermarket, would be about 10 lbs heavier then stock assy on stock FW. That heavier weight helps with starting off from idle but hurts spool up time, ie has high MOI. Mantics have low MOI because they’re smaller in diameter where the weight is at and 20 lbs lighter. Good for spool up and quick high rpm shifting but bad for starting off from a stop, especially if you get a model with cerametalic friction surfaces. Pedal push is like stock, engagement if close to the floor so you got to get it to the floor to get it disengaged so for quick shifts you left and right foot need good timing.

Choice REALLY should depend on your intentions for the clutch, no matter the brand, choose the wrong one for the wrong driving style and intentions and you won’t be happy with even the best clutch if it’s not the right clutch. What’s your intentions? Street/Strip? More strip than street or opposite? What’s your HP level? Stock car weight? Everyday driver or predominantly a track car or street racer? Describe in detail and I’ll advise.
 

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First off, How much wheel hp you planning on making? If under 850 you’ll get no smoother easier clutch then the stock clutch. My stock clutch lasted 15000 hard miles and didn’t start to slip until I got up around 925 wheel then it started to slip hard hitting 4th gear.
But to your question, the McLeod RXT is a cerametalic type friction material made to grab hard and quick with no slip so it’s touchy in starting out, it wants to chatter if you feather it wrong but get it right and it’s just fine, pedal effort about like stock, I can’t tell the difference. I have mine on a RAM aluminum flywheel which the assembly, clutch, PP, FW, ends up being about only 5 lbs lighter then stock as the McLeod unit on its thick bolster plate that bolts the complete clutch unit to the flywheel and does not use the friction surface of either flywheel it’s on, stock or aftermarket, would be about 10 lbs heavier then stock assy on stock FW. That heavier weight helps with starting off from idle but hurts spool up time, ie has high MOI. Mantics have low MOI because they’re smaller in diameter where the weight is at and 20 lbs lighter. Good for spool up and quick high rpm shifting but bad for starting off from a stop, especially if you get a model with cerametalic friction surfaces. Pedal push is like stock, engagement if close to the floor so you got to get it to the floor to get it disengaged so for quick shifts you left and right foot need good timing.

Choice REALLY should depend on your intentions for the clutch, no matter the brand, choose the wrong one for the wrong driving style and intentions and you won’t be happy with even the best clutch if it’s not the right clutch. What’s your intentions? Street/Strip? More strip than street or opposite? What’s your HP level? Stock car weight? Everyday driver or predominantly a track car or street racer? Describe in detail and I’ll advise.
Sorry, I didn't mean to give the impression that I didn't know anything about clutches or driving a stick. I fear that I needlessly cost you a lot of time to write that response. To be honest, that's why I said "I hesitate to ask," but I do appreciate your input.

I am pretty comfortable generally with the designs of the two clutches and I've been driving stick cars, well, since before I had a license... so over 35 years now. I've had all manner of different clutches in different cars, so I do get what you're saying. My question was literally just how you would compare the street manners of the two performance clutches that we're talking about. I fully understand the purpose of the design and friction materials they use (and the give and take of such materials), so I know neither is going to be as "street friendly" as the stock clutch. For what it's worth, I had a Spec stage 4 ceramic puck style clutch with an aluminum flywheel in a built and blown 388 stroker LT4 Gen 4 Camaro SS that I built back in around 2000, so I am very familiar with a car with a "digital" clutch pedal and how they can act on the street. Like you, I know how to drive them, so that's not a problem for me. HOWEVER, I don't want to completely sacrifice driveability for other folks who might want to drive the car on occasion (including the wife) if I don't have to. That's one reason I'm intrigued by the Mantic. I suspect the McLeod is going to be a similar experience to the SPEC, but again, not much objective info online comparing the two.

As for the future HP plan for the car, the point of my inquiry is that I am replacing the clutch now because the factory clutch is on its way out (at 42K miles) and I'd like to avoid pulling the trans twice if I can. But since I didn't put all the miles on the car, I can't say it's not because the car didn't see inexperienced or just overzealous drivers in the 2 years between now and when I last owned the car (long story on that).

I don't want to replace the clutch again in 6 months if I decide to bump the HP levels with a blower upgrade, injectors, E85, tune, etc. but I don't trust that the factory clutch is going to be good up to 900HP even with a skilled driver (but I could be wrong... I just don't know). So for an extra grand, I figure it's worth stepping up to a high quality aftermarket unit while I'm in there.

To your point about clutch engagement point, this factory clutch engages VERY high right now and while I do recall it being slightly lower when I previously owned the car, I don't remember it being close to the floor like you mentioned for the Mantic. Are you saying that the Mantic is lower than the stock clutch engagement? To be fair, I bought my car the first time in 2020 (it's a 2016) with 30K miles on it, so I never owned it "new" so I don't have a point of reference for a brand new stock clutch in a Hellcat. That's why I ask. Another thing I like about the Mantic is, in fact, the low MOI because I feel like the one thing I don't love about the 6.2 right now is how sluggish the revs are. I was hoping the aftermarket clutches and a lighter flywheel would pep it up at least a little in that regard.

As for my use of the car, it's not super relevant in this case because it's not going to be put to any single particular use. I don't have a "daily driver" per se, because I don't have a daily commute. I also have a few other cars, so I drive whatever I happen to be feeling at the time, but the HC is currently my only manual. I would never have a need to drive this car in rush hour traffic unless I just felt like it (but why would I do that?). That said, I am sure I'll take it to the occasional track days and weekends at the drag strip as usual, but this car is and will stay fully loaded and full weight even when I do. It's just a fun toy, but I want it to perform when I'm in the mood and I am incapable of keeping anything stock, so I suspect it won't be long and I'll want at least a little more horsepower under my toe. I can't say I have a plan mapped out for 1000whp or anything, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't think it would be cool. That said, I don't know how much more than that the stock trans is even good for, so that could all be moot. I hope that makes sense.

For this exercise, let's assume a multi-purpose use, but more street than strip, and a definite plan to eventually bump the stock HP at least a couple hundred HP. Based on your experience, do you honestly think that the stock unit is good for that with a skilled driver? I've read a few of your threads, so I don't doubt you have the experience to make that call and if so, it would save me a grand that I could put elsewhere in the car!

Thanks!
 

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No problem on the time, voice to text helps make such quick. A stock new take off for 800$ sounds like it would be right up you alley, MMX used to have them in stock almost always but with a stick car is not available of late I don’t think there’s stalkers like it used to be but it’s worth giving them a call to see if they have one or not. You could save yourself $2000 compared to other high-performance Clutches, especially like the Mantic, which is pretty expensive. I still believe a stock clutch is fine for 850 wheel, it will last a long time and be easier for others to drive it with a smile. But I would not spend 2000$ for a stock clutch, at that price I’d be looking better aftermarket too. Any cerametalic lined clutch is going to be “digital” and a possible pain for others used to a “normal” clutch’s characteristics. They’re going to be slipping the shit out of it trying to get a smooth start off with it, or herky-jerky bucking start offs to downright fall on its face super embarrassing and possibly dangerous depending on traffic conditions stalls. How experienced is your wife with performance clutches? How tolerable are you to listening to her ***** about the choice of clutches you made? Is she a nagger lol? Looking for a good reason for her to dislike your cat and not drive it? If yes to all get a cerametalic lined clutch lol. But it Sounds like what might be good for you since it’s sounding like you’re really wanting something advertised as a better clutch then stock but with like stock drivability which is going to be a clutch with organic friction faces like the McLeod RST or a Mantic triple with organic discs. But if you want a clutch you can really beat in I would not shy away from the RXT1200HD as it’s copper based friction discs are a bit less grabby and easier to drive then the cerametalic of the Mantic especially until it’s broken in well and has a more consistent grab point on start off. Speaking of grab point, what Mantic likes to see is the grab point be 1 1/2-2” off the floor which is really the correct spot for such. Getting past 800 wheel on 91 not safe, 825-840 on 93 about the top of safe on 93, past 850 is going to take corn, so your hp wants are really dictated by fuels in your area. Again, if I was at or under 850 wheel I’d be searching for a cheap low miles stock take off, the stock clutch really is a good clutch.
 

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No problem on the time, voice to text helps make such quick. A stock new take off for 800$ sounds like it would be right up you alley, MMX used to have them in stock almost always but with a stick car is not available of late I don’t think there’s stalkers like it used to be but it’s worth giving them a call to see if they have one or not. You could save yourself $2000 compared to other high-performance Clutches, especially like the Mantic, which is pretty expensive. I still believe a stock clutch is fine for 850 wheel, it will last a long time and be easier for others to drive it with a smile. But I would not spend 2000$ for a stock clutch, at that price I’d be looking better aftermarket too. Any cerametalic lined clutch is going to be “digital” and a possible pain for others used to a “normal” clutch’s characteristics. They’re going to be slipping the shit out of it trying to get a smooth start off with it, or herky-jerky bucking start offs to downright fall on its face super embarrassing and possibly dangerous depending on traffic conditions stalls. How experienced is your wife with performance clutches? How tolerable are you to listening to her * about the choice of clutches you made? Is she a nagger lol? Looking for a good reason for her to dislike your cat and not drive it? If yes to all get a cerametalic lined clutch lol. But it Sounds like what might be good for you since it’s sounding like you’re really wanting something advertised as a better clutch then stock but with like stock drivability which is going to be a clutch with organic friction faces like the McLeod RST or a Mantic triple with organic discs. But if you want a clutch you can really beat in I would not shy away from the RXT1200HD as it’s copper based friction discs are a bit less grabby and easier to drive then the cerametalic of the Mantic especially until it’s broken in well and has a more consistent grab point on start off. Speaking of grab point, what Mantic likes to see is the grab point be 1 1/2-2” off the floor which is really the correct spot for such. Getting past 800 wheel on 91 not safe, 825-840 on 93 about the top of safe on 93, past 850 is going to take corn, so your hp wants are really dictated by fuels in your area. Again, if I was at or under 850 wheel I’d be searching for a cheap low miles stock take off, the stock clutch really is a good clutch.
Thanks again. I think you're convincing me to reconsider my plan. We have 93 and E85 in my area, so it will definitely be a flex fuel setup. To be honest, my wife won't drive the car a ton regardless. She can drive stick fine and she has driven all of my high HP cars, but she has fun cars of her own and they are auto and she's good. So while I'd like her to enjoy the car when we're out and I maybe shouldn't be driving home (if you know what I mean), it won't be a car she drives a lot. That said, I also would like my teenage daughters to be able to drive it on occasion too - but I'm certainly not building it for them, haha.

Actually, MMX does have the take off Hellcat clutches on the website with flywheel for less than $800 right now. So, for around $1100 shipped, I can have the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and Mopar factory HRB. That's less than 1/2 of what I'll have investested in the Mantic twin clutch and around $800 less than the Mcleod RXT1200HD without a flywheel.

The car is mostly stock right now, so even with a few more bolt ons (pulley, injectors, tune, E85, long tubes, etc.) I'd still be south of 850whp, I assume (I haven't spent much time researching potential bolt on gains on the HC at this point). It sounds like scooping up one of those stock take offs might be the right move this time around. If/when I decide to get gnarly with a build, I can look into the Mantic if I need to go that route.

On a similar note, I've been reading about removing the check valve in the slave cylinder line. Seems to me that could have a direct impact on the lifespan of the factory clutch, especially with inexperienced drivers. I'm planning to pull it out, but what's your take on that? Agree?
 

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Yes, remove the CDV, it actually makes clutch release on start off easier as the clutch is more predictable and under your foots control. Teenage daughters, hellcat, Hmmmm, your a better dad then me lol HAVE FUN!!
 

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Yes, remove the CDV, it actually makes clutch release on start off easier as the clutch is more predictable and under your foots control. Teenage daughters, hellcat, Hmmmm, your a better dad then me lol HAVE FUN!!
Thanks for the input man! Yeah, I'm a gearhead from birth and one of my girls (the younger one) is following in that path, but they both want to at least try to drive it and I'm all for it! Life is about the experiences! The first car either of them drove (mind you the young one is only 13) was my 2020 Wrangler Rubicon with a 6 speed. The younger one drove off and shifted gears like she was born driving manuals! The older one, not so much, but she's not a quitter, so she eventually got it (sort of). I at least want to get them the opportunity to experience this beast (in an controlled environment, of course)! They won't be taking it to prom or anything insane like that! haha.

I think I've decided on just going with the factory replacement from MMX and removing the CDV and seeing how she handles minor power upgrades. From your experience, I think I'll probably be ok for a good while! If not, worst case, I step up to the Mantic later.

Thanks again!
 
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