[Jerred Vondran]

Hey guys,

Having an issue with my 18 m6 widebody slipping. Wanted to get y'all's advice before I blow a bunch of money. In 4th around 2000rpm I can punch the throttle and the rpms jump for about 1 to 2 seconds and then it's seems to grab and start pulling. I'm hoping this is a master or slave cylinder problem (haven't had a chance to check fluids out yet), I would think once it started slipping it wouldn't quit slipping. Any ideas would be appreciated..
Thanks dudes!

 

[Challey Cat]

How many miles on the car and what kind of use has it seen?

 

[Jerred Vondran]

Right at 60K, occasional burnout here and there, I'd say about a 6 outta 10 on being rough with it.

 

[Slidd]

In 4th around 2000rpm I can punch the throttle and the rpms jump for about 1 to 2 seconds and then it's seems to grab and start pulling.

That's the test right there, your clutch is done.




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[Challey Cat]

Right at 60K, occasional burnout here and there, I'd say about a 6 outta 10 on being rough with it.

I agree with you if it's toast it doesn't make sense that it hooks back up after slipping while staying on the gas. Unless you're letting off the gas is why it hooks back up. Anyway at 60k miles if you haven't been rev matching your downshifts since day one I'd say it's probably time for a refresh.

 

[Jerred Vondran]

I started thinking about it and maybe it's the traction control but I'm not sure

 

[Challey Cat]

I started thinking about it and maybe it's the traction control but I'm not sure

TC would not cause RPM's to rise or likely engage in 4th gear at 2k rpm on a clean dry surface.

 

[Slidd]

I agree with you if it's toast it doesn't make sense that it hooks back up after slipping while staying on the gas.

It will do that for a little while but progressively get worse. Need to take it easy on it til can tear it down.


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[Xylander]

Yeah, this is the first stage of what I like to call, "clutch go bye-bye." When I road test an M6, the first thing I do is put it in 4th and floor it under a load, starting at around 800rpm. If the clutch is going bad, that will almost always force a slip. The next stage of clutch go bye-bye will show itself when it starts snagging gears or having difficulty going into reverse. Clutch go boom-boom starts when the car won't go into gear and starts grinding, which means you have to "double tap" the clutch and gear selector to get it to push into the next gear. At this stage, you really should only be driving it to a repair shop because it's only a matter of time until you enter the final stage: Car no shifty no more.

 

[Jzales84]

Definitely sounds like the clutch is toast. Mcleod makes sweet clutches, I have one in my turbo F-body Camaro. Unfortunately the cat is a auto since my wife wanted to drive it from time to time.

 

[Jerred Vondran]

My master cylinder fluid is pretty low, grasping at straws but you guys think that might create those conditions? Just went out and checked it haven't had a chance to try the most obvious route yet, thanks for all your guys help

 

[Jerred Vondran]

We’ll got my clutch replaced with an oem, in my infinite wisdom I went the cheap route and didn’t replace the throwout bearing, now I hear a faint rattling noise that comes and goes without any explanation, sometimes it goes away when I press the clutch, sometimes not. Other time it doesn’t make a sound and sometimes when it’s doin it it will go away when I put it in 1st(Barton shifter) I’m thinking it’s the throwout but I didn’t think it would rattle with it in neutral and clutch released. Is the throwout bearing supposed to ride on the pressure plate when disengaged? I didn’t replace it myself so I don’t know what’s going on in there but the guy was highly recommended. Any thoughts? Thanks guys