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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

Wasn't too bad. Getting up and down on the concrete floor reminded me I'm not 25 years old anymore though. Completely skip the instructions from BMR. They'd have you take half the car apart.

UPDATE - First drive.

 

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Wasn't too bad. Getting up and down on the concrete floor reminded me I'm not 25 years old anymore though. Completely skip the instructions from BMR. They'd have you take half the car apart.
HAHA!!!! I did take half the car apart......but I did the AAD Arms, subframe lockout, differential lockout and the Diff brace all at the same time! Great Video as always!!
 

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No reason to lock cradle unless you are locking diff. If yer only gonna lock one do the diff. Come on Speedy!

I made a simple tool on lathe that takes the interference out of the limiting plates. Screw it in and they fall off. Posted it on here somewhere. Most claimed it was worthless, that drilling is easier lol. Ok : )
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Drilling took 5 mins with an $8 bit. Not sure I'd take time to make a tool unless I was doing a lot of these. My buddy also said he was able to just pry his limiters off. Trick is to leave the bolt installed but loose so the bushing doesn't flex.

I won't be locking the diff and I disagree on locking the cradle only being useful if the diff is locked. My cradle had moved enough my AAD arms have contacted the body.
 

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Right. If the cradle moved that much with semi solid rubber how much does the diff move with it’s swiss cheese? It’s my opinion that anyone who plans on making the car hook should do both. Just a opinion. I have the right to be wrong. Exercise it frequently
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
The problem becomes one of compromise in a street car. Locking the cradle, while retaining the rubber bushings, seems a good compromise. There's really nothing "moving" in the cradle and you still have some amount of NVH abatement in the rubber. Just a firmer setup.

Locking the diff is a different ball game IMO. Lots of moving stuff going on there from drive shaft to gear set. Lots of opportunity to introduce more NVH than someone might like for a street car. I do agree for all out race performance it's the way to go, however.

In my old car, I had an AWFUL noise after installing a chromoly one piece drive shaft. I couldn't understand how simply changing the drive shaft suddenly make it sound like I was riding down the street in a steel drum. Had a buddy ride with me, moving around checking things and we found when he put his weight on part of the floor the noise stopped. I ended up having to pull the entire interior, seats, console, carpet and put expanding foam between two body panels that were about 2mm apart overlapping. That experience taught me to be careful and not only do one thing at a time so I had a reference point if there were problems, but also not to go too far in terms of NVH in a street car. YMMV as they say :)
 

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Wasn't too bad. Getting up and down on the concrete floor reminded me I'm not 25 years old anymore though. Completely skip the instructions from BMR. They'd have you take half the car apart.
Don't know how muxh difference it makes on a Hellcat, I didn't install it when I had mine but it makes a noticeable difference on my ZL1. No squirrely rear end under acceleration.
 

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I won't be locking the diff and I disagree on locking the cradle only being useful if the diff is locked. My cradle had moved enough my AAD arms have contacted the body.
My trailing arms (lower control arms) were also hitting the metal brackets they mount to prior to doing the cradle lockout. I cut the brackets just slightly anyway. Mine are speelogix, though, as I bought just those before I found the AAD stuff.
 
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Automotive lighting Automotive tire Wheel Mirror Guitar accessory


Made that ^^^ faster than you could walk into Home Depot from the far end of the parking lot and it didn’t cost anything


Automotive tire Wood Grey Font Circle


$80. No diff shake no nvh : )
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That looks like a handy tool. I wouldn't have had the material or the lathe or whatever to make it though :(

You got pics of your diff parts installed?

That video you published, I swear I was part of a group that worked on that over 12 years ago and one in the group shot that video. We presented it to SRT engineers way back when to discuss wheel hop which they referred to as "stick slip".
 

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It’s night and day how much more planted my car feels with diff brace and the cradle lockout. The rear end doesn’t kick out or snake anymore - car just wants to plant and go straight.
 

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All of my bushings are starting to get pretty worn (60k miles) so anything I do suspension wise makes a huge improvement. I like that I’m at the stage where I got my use out of stock parts and now everything’s being replaced with performance ones
 

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That looks like a handy tool. I wouldn't have had the material or the lathe or whatever to make it though :(
I screwed a Keps-K nut on a bolt and turned the head of the nut down so it would fit inside the limiter plate. Burped it in and it de-swedged the swedge : )
 
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