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Charger SRT Hellcat
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Thanks Linda...it won't be necessary. I think you said it all the faster the car the smaller the wheel. i.e. the more torque and HP the smaller the wheel. When you start looking at the 8's you'll need a 15" wheel. 18s are good for 10s. And 17s are a good all around size. Thanks w/ this info I have rethought going to a 15" setup at least for a while.
My husband had the15 inch Brake conversion for 15 wheels done right after have the 9 inch rear installed. The 9inch rear was was being developed.
He really believed in building for safety and strength. He wanted this before his Hellcat had the power, to meet the manufactures promises of how much hp the part would hold up to.
If it broke at a lesser HP, that would push the MFG to get it right and not just give us the "paperwork marketing" lies and scams.

There are more options now for parts. Many mfg's know, they are not going to sell a part unless it stands up to the HP they say it will.
I still go to the track and T&T and R&D parts and Tuning with Josh @HHP. He has several guys running Hellcats with ET's of 8.5 and below and they continue to T&T and R&D of parts and Tuning for the higher HP parts.
There are many Hellcats and of course modern Mopars who race in Hemirace.com. This is where you will also find the "Truth from the Track" from many part vendors.

I am looking forward to sometime have the time to race at an NMCA race!
Josh has a good Team of guys that all work together pushing and some looking to get into the 7's

Linda :)
 

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Charger SRT Hellcat
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I'm with you on the BMR...had the on car adjustable rear lower trailing arms in the Redeye and will do both trailing arms and control arm on the SS. Could definitely tell the difference from the stock setup on the Redeye.
BMR makes great parts.

AAD has improved many parts and they have been track tested :) Many of the higher HP Hellcats have changed over to the AAD parts. I had HHP install them on my Husbands Hellcat Challenger "Top Cat"


This is the advantage that we have now of the newer parts that have come to the marketplace.

Description:
The ultimate rear suspension set up for your Modern Mopar. This kit consist of our track proven rear upper adjustable control arms, rear lower trailing arms featuring Spheriflex bearings, and very popular rear adjustable toe links.
This package is perfect for you street strips cars or full blown race cars. We have customer cars making upwards of 1500hp and well over a 1,000 passes on this setup without fail! We built this package with racers in mind, a one stop shop to once and for all get the rear end of your Modern Mopar setup for any type of driving conditions.
The upper control arms feature Energy suspension bushings and our tab system for easy repeatable adjustment. The lower trailing arms comes standard with our Spheriflex bearings for maximum rigidity, maintenance free use, and quiet ride. The adjustable toe links feature our Spheriflex joint utilizing a custom counter sunk stainless ball and button head bolt for clearance of all 15 inch wheels, with no grinding or modification needed!! We use Energy suspension bushings on the inner mounting point, providing a stiffer bushing over stock with less deflection while still maintaining a comfortable ride.
*AADPerformance officially recommends staying with the factory sway bar on 15" conversions for clearance purposes.
 

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2022 Hellraisen SS
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801 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Really the difference with wheel size is just going to affect your sidewall. So if you have a 28" tall tire on a 15" wheel, you have a lot more sidewall, versus a 28" on an 18" wheel. More sidewall=more gooder for drag racing. A MT 305R 18 is 29" tall and a 305R-17 is only 28" tall. 315R 17 is 29.4. This is why people run 15" wheels if possible.


Chris, also there are three approaches people take to launching these cars
1) stomp on it
2) roll into it
3) stomp halfway and then roll into it the rest of the way

First order of business is a good tire. A 30" tire is a big old tire, but a taller tire gets you a bigger foot print, so that is good and not like you don't have enough torque off the line with that insanely deep first gear the car has.

I have run hoosiers from time to time. Good tires.

I agree that the nitto are limited depending on the HP of the car. Personally, I'd get a race tire if you are going to get anything else, rather than wasting time trying to get a Nitto street tire or something similar to work. There's a reason why so many people run MT R's, or a Hoosier drag radial. Though I did think the MT SS worked pretty good when I just had a tune on my car, and I think it would work even better on a really well-prepped track.
Explain rolling into it
 

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2022 Super Stock
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61 Posts
No pulley.
Stock tune, stock mechanically. Minor weight removal, skinnies and DR's on a good track in good air(Houston in Jan).
And here I thought you were in TN!!!! Sounds exactly like my car except I'm putting in BMR rear suspension parts. Used the rear trailing arms on the Redeye and made the rear end more stable seems like it cut down on the tire spinning at launch and the occasional wheel hop during burnouts but can't prove it. It's an inexpensive mod and totally reversible easy access to the bolts also...don't have to drop the cradle or cut off bolt heads. But you probably already know all that.
 

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Challenger SRT Redeye
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256 Posts
And here I thought you were in TN!!!! Sounds exactly like my car except I'm putting in BMR rear suspension parts. Used the rear trailing arms on the Redeye and made the rear end more stable seems like it cut down on the tire spinning at launch and the occasional wheel hop during burnouts but can't prove it. It's an inexpensive mod and totally reversible easy access to the bolts also...don't have to drop the cradle or cut off bolt heads. But you probably already know all that.
I am in TN. We were at the Legion event in Houston. It's one of the few events I know of where running personal bests and getting lots of runs in is the goal.. rather than typical elimination style racing. Tons of fun.
I have the BMR cradle lockouts and the full AAD arm set leftover from my '21 RE. Based on some rudimentary angle checking it appears that the SS has less negative camber than either of the RE's I had. All I have on the SS is the P4D DIRS. I've had no issues with the SS hopping like the RE's would do. I'll likely leave the BMR and AAD stuff sitting on the shelf until I see a real reason to use them.
 

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‘16 Challenger
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891 Posts
I'm with you on the BMR...had the on car adjustable rear lower trailing arms in the Redeye and will do both trailing arms and control arm on the SS. Could definitely tell the difference from the stock setup on the Redeye.
I just got the ones where I have to remove the wheel to change camber. With the car leveled and the camber at 0° a 8’ florescent bulb said toe was still spot on lol. After I locked everything out back there I had to shift the cradle to get it back but it’s back so no control arms required for me : )
 

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….It's an inexpensive mod and totally reversible easy access to the bolts also...don't have to drop the cradle or cut off bolt heads.
No way I would slap Mickey’s on a car like yers and put it on a sticky track w/o at least locking the diff out. If not both the diff n cradle
 

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‘16 Challenger
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@Linda's Hell Cat SEVENS! Now we’re talkin! I believe it requires something like 1800 hp to run 8 flat w a 4600# car n driver? How light are these guys getting their cars? What are they doing to their blocks? How are they keeping head gaskets in em? I know the factory experimental guys ran purdy deep into the sevens in great air but seems like they are on the ragged edge. Like pro stock is. You are talking about 7 second street challenger???
 

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I am in TN. We were at the Legion event in Houston. It's one of the few events I know of where running personal bests and getting lots of runs in is the goal.. rather than typical elimination style racing. Tons of fun.
I have the BMR cradle lockouts and the full AAD arm set leftover from my '21 RE. Based on some rudimentary angle checking it appears that the SS has less negative camber than either of the RE's I had. All I have on the SS is the P4D DIRS. I've had no issues with the SS hopping like the RE's would do. I'll likely leave the BMR and AAD stuff sitting on the shelf until I see a real reason to use them.
Yea I thought so...for some reason I'm thinking Memphis or Nashville area, anyway west of me over here in SE TN. Seriously, thanks for the input. I've got the DIRS off the Redeye and will put it on...I have been contemplating how much of the BMR stuff I was going to install before the first trip to the track and your input gives a good data point. I'll have to look up the Legion event to see how it works. It sounds like the race out in California where there is a point system instead of elimination and the one w/ the most points at the end of the day is declarer winner. Comes w/ some big bragging rights for the west coast. Sorry for all the questions but your BMR lockout was it the shim kit where you knock metal shims into the cradle bushings or the solid aluminum bush replacements?
 

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‘16 Challenger
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ya press the shims in the rear diff mounts and they supply a washer so they can’t fall out and it comes w alum rings for either side of the front diff mounts. The front is similar to how their cradle lock out works. Best 90 bucks you can spend on that car imo
 

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Oh… then yer diff has FIVE rubber bushings that need help lol. Jk. Sorta. Aren’t those things like $600? I would sell it and just throw a brace on the back of the case. Lock diff n cradle - then film it at the track and SEE what else needs to be sturdied up. That’s what I am doing anyhow.

*and will continue to do as I throw power at it : )
 

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Oh… then yer diff has FIVE rubber bushings that need help lol. Jk. Sorta. Aren’t those things like $600? I would sell it and just throw a brace on the back of the case. Lock diff n cradle - then film it at the track and SEE what else needs to be sturdied up. That’s what I am doing anyhow.

*and will continue to do as I throw power at it : )
Yea the weak link is the 2- small bolts up into the bottom of the cradle in my opinion. But filming is an excellent idea. First time I saw the diff moved I couldn't believe it. You can also see if the shocks are at their limits of travel front and rear.
 

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You mean that ^^^ ? Rofl. Yea, diff lockout #1 priority to me : )

Filming I was referring to tho is super slo mo from both the side, and from behind ea rear tire, one at a time. Behind and JUST outside of it. So I can see what the toe does. Tommy (my buddy with the video cam) couldn’t come thurs night but we will do mine soon. I wanna see what the toe does worse than what happens to the camber
 

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There is a thought process out there that runs counter to that: When there isn't enough tire to stick the car there must be some other areas of the suspension that can absorb some of the shock, allowing the tire to try to stay stuck to the ground. It would seem to me that most independent suspension setups lean more toward that idea.
 

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Explain rolling into it
Just means to "slowly" step down on the throttle but at a constant rate. I haven't tried the punch halfway and then roll into it the rest of the way yet. I can't do the roll into it method for bracket racing. No way I can cut a good light doing that. Plus, I've just never done it like that my whole life, and it's hard for me to change now.


Looks like your times are improving! Good work. 11.45 the other day and now 11.12.

10s are right around the corner.
 

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Just means to "slowly" step down on the throttle but at a constant rate. I haven't tried the punch halfway and then roll into it the rest of the way yet. I can't do the roll into it method for bracket racing. No way I can cut a good light doing that. Plus, I've just never done it like that my whole life, and it's hard for me to change now.


Looks like your times are improving! Good work. 11.45 the other day and now 11.12.

10s are right around the corner.
yup.. it is not an off on switch... bring up boost and roll into it.
 

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2022 Hellraisen SS
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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
Just means to "slowly" step down on the throttle but at a constant rate. I haven't tried the punch halfway and then roll into it the rest of the way yet. I can't do the roll into it method for bracket racing. No way I can cut a good light doing that. Plus, I've just never done it like that my whole life, and it's hard for me to change now.


Looks like your times are improving! Good work. 11.45 the other day and now 11.12.

10s are right around the corner.
this was my first 1/4 the 11.45 was someone else. I was spinning at the 1/8 though so I get what your saying. Thanks. Would my reaction time bring my ET down? or the timer starts when I leave?
 
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