Hey purrkitty. That sounds backwards to me, at least for how most drag cars would be set up. For drag racing, you want it stiff in the back. This is newton's 3rd law. If the suspension is "collapsing" that means that the tire is being pulled away from the ground. If the distance between the body and the suspension stays the same or increases, that means the force on the tire is going the opposite direction, which means it's planting the tire. Good "squat" is the tire biting down into the track and wrinkling up. I read online people talking about squat like it is a good thing. I guess that's what they mean, the tire smooshing which makes it look like the body is going down. But I am old enough that sometimes the words people use have changed, lol. It's always confusing to me to read that.
In the "old" days (the 80's ha ha), we talked about anti-squat bars, etc., which were used to keep the body from squatting, or we would run air bags, or a stiffer spring and lakewood drag shocks, or an adjustable shock, or lowering brackets for the lower control arms. Anti squat bars, like on my chevelle, shorten the instant center. Nowadays on 3 link or 4 link solid axle street cars everyone uses lowering brackets for the rear mounting point of the lower control arms to achieve the same effect rather than raising the diff mounting point of the upper arms. IRS is a whole different game, of which I don't know much.
Watch a street car at the track, especially if it's a stick, and if they have stock suspension you'll see the back end squat down ever time they shift, and they are probably also losing traction momentarily.
In the front, run loose. Adjustable shock. My mustang I set the front shock on 3 and the rear on 8 (12 being the stiffest setting).
I haven't found that unbolting the front sway bar matters if you still have the same spring and shock. But I haven't checked this on my hellcat, just other cars like my Chevelle and mustang. Front springs have to have stored energy so there is front end travel and an adjustable shock. Measure from the edge of the fender, right above the tire to the ground, and then start jacking up that side until the tire is almost off the ground. Measure down from the fender again. That difference is your front end travel. I had like 8 or 9" of travel on my Chevelle. Great for drag racing. Terrible for street driving. But it's easy to check just do what I described here and see if the front end travel changes when you disconnect the endlinks. Getting the weight off is another matter, so if someone were trying to save every pound it would make sense.
These modern cars are pretty amazing with how they can hook up without having the suspensions set up for drag racing. Today's race tires are probably a part of that too. A good track and really good tires make up for a lot of the poor setup in suspension, I guess. And, again, this modern IRS and all that is pretty darn cool.
To really see how much the car squats in terms of the body relationship to the suspension, put a zip tie on the shock and make a pass. Then look and see how far the zip tie moved up.
The one thing I wish the hellcats had is an adjustable rear shock.
Pretty cool that the SS has a setting like that for drag racing.
Front drag shocks usually come in 90/10, 80/20, or 60/40. The first number is how easily it will extend and the second is how easily it will compress. The idea is for it to extend quickly and then stay there and slowly come back down, etc. So a 90/10 shock basically extends 9 times more easily than it compresses. For rear shocks it might be 50/50 or whatever. I have single adj on my mustang so it changes both extension and compression together. A double adjustable shock you can control the compression and extension separately. I've never had a car that was fast enough to need double adjustable, lol, but my friend has a chevelle that runs 6.40s in the 1/8 lifting to stay legal, at 5500 DA and he really has that thing dialed in, all motor. The shocks are $$$.
I also haven't found that an adjust front shock doesn't matter much if you are still using the stock front spring since the spring rate isn't designed for stored energy to allow the front end to travel.
Dang I wrote a lot. Sorry about that everyone.