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2022 SRT Super Stock Smoke Show
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I pulled the trigger on the 1077HP kit from Dusterhoff today. After talking with them and a few other vendors over the last few months I chose them. They seem to have a great customer service reputation which stands out to me. I plan on doing the install myself over the winter and Dusterhoff seems so far to be available to answer questions as they arise. I placed my order mid-day and it shipped out just after 6pm!

I was on the fence between napalming my warranty or waiting for the 885 DC kits to come out. But I am getting old and may not make it until then :) So napalm it was.

Not too worried about the upper pully, injectors, T-STAT, or BAP but that lower ATI lower pully pin/install I am dreading. I am going to take my time as i have all winter.

Fingers crossed for springtime low 9's or if the racing gods shine upon me high 8's :devilish:
 

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2015 Charger SRT Hellcat
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Sounds like a plan.

Advise you to keep a running log of all power modifications, fueling, ignition and cooling changes made so you can refer to them when it comes time for tuning parameters to be the most suitable and accurate as possible
 

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2022 SS, 2020 1320, 2019 HC-Sold, 1967 Camero SS, 1971 Charger Superbee
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302 Posts
I am also waiting to see if the DC stuff comes to fruition. Praise your courage to mod a 22 and forego the warranty. I retire next year and may do the same if Dodge can pull their program together. Guess you are going to do the remote tune?

Please keep us posted on the results. Do you mind me asking what that set up is costing you, because I also would prefer to do my own work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am also waiting to see if the DC stuff comes to fruition. Praise your courage to mod a 22 and forego the warranty. I retire next year and may do the same if Dodge can pull their program together. Guess you are going to do the remote tune?

Please keep us posted on the results. Do you mind me asking what that set up is costing you, because I also would prefer to do my own work.
It was @$5300 out the door.

I will have to pickup a tool or 2 to do it as well. Like the 250LB torque wrench as I dont have one that big for the crank bolt. 90 degree drill etc...

As far as comparison from the other places where I was having them quote doing the work + parts + dyno tuning the quotes were basically close to twice that. So shop labor/dyno runs 3-5kish for install?

And answering the question above, yes its remote tuning. Just completed step one today at lunch pulling my ECU and shipping out to HPtuners. I will get the unlocked ECU back hopefully by next weekend, pop that in, make sure everything still works stock and verify it flashed correctly. Then wire in the HP tuners bypass kit and module. I did this with my 18 Scat except it was with DiabloSport/Hemifever Tuning vs HPTuners/Dusterhoff so no worries there. Then i will read my stock file send to Kurt and start changing hardware.

I also still have my complete 300HP NOS EFI plate system I pulled off my scatpack before selling that car, staring at me from the parts bin teasing me to pop on a NXExpress supercharger fogger lid but I am holding off the temptation for now. 99% sure that would add at least a parachute/roll cage requirement then trans and or rearend once i scraped the pieces up off the track. So I may be good with the single power adder. But it would be nice to have a scramble button for those last few 10ths when needed :)

I will try to take some pictures and let you know how it goes. I know there are several videos and guides online and even here as well I will be using to assist.
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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Now all you need to do is suspension and wheel/tires.
 
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I would recommend the ATI pin kit that places the pin in the key way slot not the one at front of crankshaft.
If you order the ATI balancer removal kit there is also a specific removal bolt for that tool from ATI.
 
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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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Either style pin kit works fine, bwoody or ATI.
A must have!
 

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2022 SRT Super Stock Smoke Show
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now all you need to do is suspension and wheel/tires.
Already have demon fronts and 17" ET street R's for the rear. They work well so far. As far as suspension goes the SS does pretty well with weight transfer/hooking in track mode. I have the full DIRS installed and I might put some BMR cradle lockouts in later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would recommend the ATI pin kit that places the pin in the key way slot not the one at front of crankshaft.
If you order the ATI balancer removal kit there is also a specific removal bolt for that tool from ATI.
When I talked with Frank at Dusterhoff before ordering I think they said they send the ATI keyway pin kit as you mentioned.
 

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Already have demon fronts and 17" ET street R's for the rear. They work well so far. As far as suspension goes the SS does pretty well with weight transfer/hooking in track mode. I have the full DIRS installed and I might put some BMR cradle lockouts in later.
You were talking 8's, need to upgrade the rear arms and do a minimum of a rear cradle lockout. Stock stuff is never going to hook, your going to get flex and wheelhop.
Did you do a driveshaft? That ss two piece might not handle over 1,000hp and hooking on a track, at least for long....
Good luck with your build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I don't disagree with ya GreenMachine on the need for suspension work to optimize/not break stuff/hook. The SS driveshaft is heavier than hellcat/RedEye/Demons driveshafts according to OST when i talked to them they had done weights and measurements on them. They too recommended a beefed up driveshaft as insurance but they didn't know of anybody breaking a SS shaft yet?

So this week I had some fun drama in the build and got all my hardware from Dusterhoff. To start out with UPS "lost" my PCM in between Ohio and HPtuners in Illinois. I called UPS and they started an investigation to find it. I called Hptuners and they said they had not received it either? Next day I called Dusterhoff and they did some digging and lo and behold Hptuners had my PCM already and my ned one is on the way back, yay, crisis averted. So once i get that Monday I am popping that back in starting up the car to make sure everything went ok in the flashing then tear down begins.

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Apparently, I am assuming, I am the second SS to do this kit with Dusterhoff?

In some free time today as I wait, I pulled my radio out and put in the HPtuners bypass cable on the security module to get ready for the RTD+.
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Wasn't too bad just had to be careful popping out the cluster cover with the plastic spuger tools....

Then I decided to "fix" my race cool down/hood open issue by keeping the hood open switch closed. I know you can buy the zl1 addon clip for $20 but I thought I can figure out something for free with my Patented Appalachian Engineering. I tried electrical tape and that slowly pushed back open after a few minutes from the spring pressure, then thought about ducttape but in the end I found a better solution.
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Drilled a hole in a plastic nut I had laying around and put a zip tie through it.

Next week I should begin doing the JMS dual BAP with the help of these 2 videos combined.

Trackhawk install of the exact BAP i have.

and a Kennebell BAP on a Redeye

I could not find a video of a JMS BAP install on a Challenger so if anybody has one let me know. But 99% of the Kennebell video applies except the supercharger pressure switch vs the throttle position sensor as done on the trackhawk. For reference I will use the TPS like the trackhawk because thats what my JMS comes with. If that makes any sense?

Then its tearing out the upper and lower pulleys and injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Alrighty as promised here is the Monday update. Got the computer back from HP tuners today and back in the car. I updated/installed the relevant software on my old trusty laptop and fired up the car. Oh my gosh it was in dummy run rich mode and skunked out my garage and house. Even after pulling outside the garage the wife was not happy. She hates exhaust smell and our garage attaches to our kitchen where she was making dinner. If you gotta sleep on the couch every once in a while to go fast its worth it :) Anyhow it had check engine lights all sorts of faults flashing and it would barely idle. So I shut it off, cleared the codes with the HPtuners software and started it up again. This time it was fine purring like a kitten. All the gauges in HPtuners worked and no errors upon connect. I havent flashed the e85 tune yet will do that at the end.

Then I pulled into the big end of the garage to prepare for the big tear down. First I popped the trunk and put in the JMS BAP.

All in all it was easy.
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After removing the carpeting in the trunk, plugged in the pigtails inline to the dual fuel pump modules.

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Then snaked the Throttle Position Sensor cable up to the front through the back seat driver side down the channels by the seat.

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Note make sure you don't run the wire anywhere it might get pinched like in the seat hinge or by the E-Brake.

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Pigtail for TPS installed. You have to remove your carpet/shield and unsnap the floor light. Man it sucks being old with a bad back laying under the pedals of a car twisted in a weird position. Seem to remember it being easier in my youth :) Yes i got stuck and needed a breather to get out.

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So looking at the fuses I need to upgrade F40 and F41 to 40A. Here is the first problem with this kit.

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F40 and F41 are square fuses not blade that are included with the kit, which is Mustang based I think. So need to go get some 40A squares. So I am 99% done with the BAP and will mount it to the fuse box lid once I get the right fuses tomorrow.

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Had a little more time before I tapped out and decided to remove a few easy things prepping for tomorrow. Pulled off the coil/injector covers, then took out the whole airbox and funky emissions tube/valve. I thought about just removing the boot and leaving the box in but its one bolt to pull the whole thing and looks like it gives me more room.

Now the next part I am, I think going to first swap injectors to the 1300#, then unbolt/raise the SC and pull the snout. That should take up my evening tomorrow. Once thats all back together with the 2.72 upper it's time for lower end.
Heading down underneath to pin the crank and install the ATI 10% OD balancer. Oh and the 180 TStat, almost forgot that one.

If things go well I just might get this thing to the last T&T of the year this Sunday at National Trail? If not I will have a long winter of anticipation.
 

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Hi, Curt did a Flex Tune for me on my 2019 Redeye, so you're in great hands..
Are you keeping your cats?
If so, will they handle the increased horsepower?
I'm asking, because I just purchased a 2022 Super Stock and want to try Tuning it with them intact, but I'm afraid of them melting..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hi, Curt did a Flex Tune for me on my 2019 Redeye, so you're in great hands..
Are you keeping your cats?
If so, will they handle the increased horsepower?
I'm asking, because I just purchased a 2022 Super Stock and want to try Tuning it with them intact, but I'm afraid of them melting..
No I don't plan on removing them. I have a spare set in my basement which i think are the same from my SCAT that I put long tube kooks on. I first tried no cats on the SCAT and man I like how it sounded but didn't notice any gains from them? But as said above the wife was not a fan every time I parked in the garage backing in with no cats was a no go for raw exhaust smell. I even tried that sweet smelling fuel additive, Grape, Coffee, Chocolate, nope still stunk. So I got some high flow cats for the kooks and never melted them running 200+ shots of N2O for years. Now I did burn/foul out a few sets of o2 sensors. But that could have been a combo of the N2O and 112 leaded racing gas?
 

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Yeah, I know what you mean about the fumes.
Running E85 though, it's not bad at all...
I've also got a set of Kooks for my SS, but not sure, if I want to go through the trouble of installing them, as I've heard the gains are minimal...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So i got the injectors swapped out which went pretty well except for the rear passenger side one. That one was a bear to get back together because of limited space. Swapped in the 180 T-STAT again very easy.

I got the supercharger up and snout off then hit a wall. I can't for the life of me get the pulley bolt to release. I have the metco tool on there tried my dewalt 1/2 electric impact impact and a big breaker bar, then went and brought a 1/2 air impact. None will break it they just loosen the back bolt which I have to go tighten back and try again. I suspect my little compressor cant push enough air maybe for the 1/2 gun? I may have been better off with a 3/8 impact that hits fast? So I am trying this method I found on the forum below.

Yousif Guide

I red locktighted the bolt, soaked the pulley in PB Catalyst, and am waiting the 12 hrs for it to dry. Then I will heat gun it and try again to break it free. If that fails I need to find a shop around here where I can find a kind soul to maybe let me use their best air gun or compressor.

I will try to post images tomorrow as i am defeated tonight.
 
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2018 Trackhawk "not stock"
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Used this on mine. Took it off like soft butter. You don't want that little ratty tat tat beating $hit up. Good strong smooth torque.

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Don't forget about a nice little sander/grinder flap wheel to clearance for 10%. Couple bolt heads also if you're not putting button head bolts in.

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